o2 sensors
Properly called "MIL Eliminators", these devices are intended to simulate the operation of functional cats and to prevent P0420 and P0430 OBDII codes. They still require all four O2 sensors to be fully functional.
Nothing more.
You can make your own for less than two bucks using parts from Radio Shack.
Google or SEARCH this site for "MIL Eliminators" to find sellers or to find instructions on making your own.
Steve
Nothing more.
You can make your own for less than two bucks using parts from Radio Shack.
Google or SEARCH this site for "MIL Eliminators" to find sellers or to find instructions on making your own.
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; Jun 13, 2006 at 08:43 AM.
Originally Posted by 99fordman
Has anyone bought o2 simulators that work?
If so how much were they and where did you buy them?
Thanks in advance!
If so how much were they and where did you buy them?
Thanks in advance!
I remembered this guy's website. He's really nice, and will help ya if you have any problems. http://www.killswitchcentral.com/index.htm
Last edited by chester8420; Jun 13, 2006 at 01:03 PM.
Originally Posted by chester8420
I bought a set from "thebestmileliminators" off ebay. They were less than $15 dollars. They have worked perfectly for over 20,000 miles. Just be sure to order the "2 wire" kind. I initially bought the 1 wire kind, but they wouldn't work on my truck (don't know why??). So he sent me the 2 wire kind for free. The work great. And they have a 1 year warranty.
I remembered this guy's website. He's really nice, and will help ya if you have any problems. http://www.killswitchcentral.com/index.htm
I remembered this guy's website. He's really nice, and will help ya if you have any problems. http://www.killswitchcentral.com/index.htm
That guy has several untruthful claims about his MIL eliminators...... About the only one that is accurate is that they will keep the MIL off if the converter is gone (or inefficent). My choice of words, not his. I'm trying to be statesmanlike...
Steve
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
That guy has several untruthful claims about his MIL eliminators...... About the only one that is accurate is that they will keep the MIL off if the converter is gone (or inefficent). My choice of words, not his. I'm trying to be statesmanlike...
Steve
Steve

Originally Posted by thebestmileliminators
These MIL Eliminators will return your vehicle to the perfect (14:7:1) air/fuel ratio. You will never have to worry about bad air/fuel ratios, poor performance, and poor acceleration because the vehicle is returned to the original air/fuel ratio. These MIL Eliminators will not alter the air/fuel ratio of a performance chip or a programmer that is installed on the vehicle.
Last edited by chester8420; Jun 13, 2006 at 02:50 PM.
Radio Shack worked for me. I think it was a bit over $3.00 and I had enough parts to make 3 sets. One set stayed on an 04 Stang for about 6 months before the car was sold, another set were put on my 01 in the begining of 02 and up until I sold it in November they were working fine. THe last set that I had are on the Mach 1. They have been there since it was new in 03 and no problems yet.
I have seen alot of people use the plug ins and the splice ins that you buy and have problems with them not working sometimes.
I have seen alot of people use the plug ins and the splice ins that you buy and have problems with them not working sometimes.
These MIL Eliminators will return your vehicle to the perfect (14:7:1) air/fuel ratio. You will never have to worry about bad air/fuel ratios, poor performance, and poor acceleration because the vehicle is returned to the original air/fuel ratio.
These MIL Eliminators will not alter the air/fuel ratio of a performance chip or a programmer that is installed on the vehicle.
You don’t even have to reinstall the rear O2 sensors back into the exhaust system.
These MIL Eliminators were dyno tested by a few customers and they gained up to 9 HP after they were installed. Their gas mileage had also improved. ...
OFF ROAD USE ONLY!
You get the picture...hopefully....
Steve
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Originally Posted by 01TruBluGT
Radio Shack worked for me. I think it was a bit over $3.00 and I had enough parts to make 3 sets. One set stayed on an 04 Stang for about 6 months before the car was sold, another set were put on my 01 in the begining of 02 and up until I sold it in November they were working fine. THe last set that I had are on the Mach 1. They have been there since it was new in 03 and no problems yet.
I have seen alot of people use the plug ins and the splice ins that you buy and have problems with them not working sometimes.
I have seen alot of people use the plug ins and the splice ins that you buy and have problems with them not working sometimes.
Originally Posted by chester8420
WHAT????

If this is what you're talking about.... I've talked to him before... I don't think he quite understands what's going on with the A/F ratios.

If this is what you're talking about.... I've talked to him before... I don't think he quite understands what's going on with the A/F ratios.
Originally Posted by 99fordman
Wow that is over my head. I guess I am buying the pre-made 8$ ones. 

To be honest it really isn't that hard. Don't worry about using the DMM, and don't bother with the PC Board either. Use this illustration, all you have to do is cut the gray wire and solder the resistor in then solder the capacitor in with the harness side of the resistor. You can use the soldering iron to burn a bit of the rubber off of the black wire and then solder the capacitor to the bare area of the black wire.
Here I made the diagram a bit easier to understand. Its pretty simple cut one wire and make 3 solder connections.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/177/3011/66346.gif
Originally Posted by 01TruBluGT
To be honest it really isn't that hard. Don't worry about using the DMM, and don't bother with the PC Board either. Use this illustration, all you have to do is cut the gray wire and solder the resistor in then solder the capacitor in with the harness side of the resistor. You can use the soldering iron to burn a bit of the rubber off of the black wire and then solder the capacitor to the bare area of the black wire.
Here I made the diagram a bit easier to understand. Its pretty simple cut one wire and make 3 solder connections.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/177/3011/66346.gif
Here I made the diagram a bit easier to understand. Its pretty simple cut one wire and make 3 solder connections.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/177/3011/66346.gif
Originally Posted by 01TruBluGT
To be honest it really isn't that hard. Don't worry about using the DMM, and don't bother with the PC Board either. Use this illustration, all you have to do is cut the gray wire and solder the resistor in then solder the capacitor in with the harness side of the resistor. You can use the soldering iron to burn a bit of the rubber off of the black wire and then solder the capacitor to the bare area of the black wire.
Here I made the diagram a bit easier to understand. Its pretty simple cut one wire and make 3 solder connections.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/177/3011/66346.gif
Here I made the diagram a bit easier to understand. Its pretty simple cut one wire and make 3 solder connections.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/177/3011/66346.gif
Had my clogged junk rattling cats removed finally. The mil still hasn't came on at all. So it looks like I don't need the parts I ordered from radio shack. I can't believe how much louder my truck is now it is as loud as my buddies chevy with true dual straight pipes, and all I have is a si/do flowpro powerpack. wow



