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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:46 AM
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buckdropper's Avatar
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
exhaust manifold

The bolts on my exhaust manifold are rusted out and exhaust is leaking where it bolts to the cat. Any quick fixes for this without having to replace the whole dam manifold???
 
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by buckdropper
The bolts on my exhaust manifold are rusted out and exhaust is leaking where it bolts to the cat. Any quick fixes for this without having to replace the whole dam manifold???
WHAT!!??? ARE YOU CRAZY??!! Don't fix it!!!!! This is a great opportunity to get headders!!!! Just tell the wife that it needs to be fixed, and you are gonna replace it with an upgrade!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 04:19 AM
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Originally Posted by chester8420
WHAT!!??? ARE YOU CRAZY??!! Don't fix it!!!!! This is a great opportunity to get headders!!!! Just tell the wife that it needs to be fixed, and you are gonna replace it with an upgrade!

That would be my next move if i can't repair the bolts, there must be a way, i can't be the only one with rusted bolts. What are good headers to put on that are not so costly. Remember the truck has over 170,000 miles on it. i know it is good for many more but don't want to get carried away. Do headers bolt right up to the oem exhaust
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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BD....

NAPA sells a clamp just for this that I used on my 97. Its like a C-clamp, but has a couple different screw on fittings (a point and a cup) so that it won't slide off when you clamp it over the old bolt. Had mine on for a year and a half and it solved the problem for like $8. Of course now the bolts going into the block have rotted out. Time to get the drill going....

Tomorrow when its light out I'll take a look around the garage. I think I kept the box with all the info on it.


-Adam
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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took mine to local shop they replaced bolts $70 bucks a side if I recall correctly,not worth my effort as they went a yr apart
 
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 02:36 AM
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Originally Posted by AAlmeter
BD....

NAPA sells a clamp just for this that I used on my 97. Its like a C-clamp, but has a couple different screw on fittings (a point and a cup) so that it won't slide off when you clamp it over the old bolt. Had mine on for a year and a half and it solved the problem for like $8. Of course now the bolts going into the block have rotted out. Time to get the drill going....

Tomorrow when its light out I'll take a look around the garage. I think I kept the box with all the info on it.


-Adam
thanks AA but i made my own clamps this weekend and it worked very well and cost was 000000000000 and 1 hr of my time.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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Did you ever find the NAPA P/N for that clamp? I'd like to do a quick fix on my manifiold flange. I can't get a drill in there to try an easy out, so thought I'd try the NAPA clamp.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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Called NAPA today. That clamp is no longer offered. NAPA guy said they didn't work, and so they were taken off the shelves. I really don't want to take the manifold off, take a chance on breaking a stud or more, and have to buy a new EGR tube, so I am going to drill the other side out, and use a nut and bolt to tighten it up. I'll try a drill bit extention.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 11:12 AM
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Manifold cracks?

What is it with manifolds cracking? I just bought my first F-150, a '92 with 139,000 k on it - a few things have been neglected and I have spent a little getting it up to spec - whaddareyagonnado - but am perturbed and intrigued to learn that both manifolds have cracks in them....what's up with that???

Looking on ebay out of curiousity, I saw a pair for sale, with the seller exhorting potential buyers to "replace those cracked manifolds" so it's clearly not an unusual occurrance.

I am hoping for a temp fix by applying some good ole muffler putty in the meantime, it's not pleasant, economical (I suspect) or safe to drive with such leaks, besides, it makes the oil leaks smell worse...I guess I'm heating the residue.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 05:07 PM
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Well, I got it done. Used a drill bit extension, and drilled from the bottom up. Was able to get the old stud out, luckily. Wish I would have done this on the first stud. Went from the top because the drill interfered from the bottom, and drilled a bit off center. Just tapped it, and it worked OK. No more leak, and no more smelly cab at the stop lights! Should be good for the next 179K!
 
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