Going to need a new manifold
Going to need a new manifold
This thread is going to be littered with 'newbie' engine/exhaust questions, just giving fair warning.
I have a '97 F150 4.6L. Where the manifold bolts onto the block the back nut has broken at the head, leaving the bolt still in the block. Apparently this has been this way for about 6 months, as I was told my problem was the bolt being broke where the manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. Tried to put new bolts on the manifold to pipe, couldn't get all of the old ones out, just the bottom halves, but that is when we noticed the other bolt missing.
So the shade tree days are over and I'm going to a real shop tonight to see when they can get to this.
First concern is my valves. I didn't know it was leaking this far up the exhaust. There is some black marks around where the bolt is broken where I am assuming it has been leaking. Like I said, it's been drivien this way for around 6 months if not a little longer. When it first happened it made extra noise, but the only performance issue was that it felt like the engine was missing, it have a very rough shake to it when it higher gear at lower RPM's. Really noticable on a hill (most of my drive to work is hills). I can kick it out of overdrive, and it smooths out. A few weeks ago when I found this site I did the DIY cold air intake for my air filter, and much to my surprise this really helped take the shake and shimmies out of it going up hill. So what do I need to look for once I get this fixed to let me know if the rest of my engine, mainly my valves since it is my understanding this is where the worst damage can occur at, is ok. Also is the DIY airbox mod going to harm, or speed up harming anything else, or is it ok to leave on for now.
Secondly, I need someone to point me to a 'Exahust systems for Dummies' article. Since the bolt is broke on my manifold, I'm assuming that either it broke due to increased pressure put on the bolt from the manifold warping, or if it wasn't warped before it is now. Just called my local dealership, and they want $339 for the driver side manifold. Like I hinted at, I get the concept behind manifolds and headers, but not very detailed. So can I replace my manifold's with headers, or do I need both? If I can replace them I'm thinking that I will look to see if I can't find a cheaper set of headers. I'm not really interested in any performace gain, just tring to save a buck while still getting my truck back in working order.
Agian, sorry for the simple/silly questions, but any help or insight would be greatly appriciated. I've searched the forum a little bit, but got more confused than I was when I started.
I have a '97 F150 4.6L. Where the manifold bolts onto the block the back nut has broken at the head, leaving the bolt still in the block. Apparently this has been this way for about 6 months, as I was told my problem was the bolt being broke where the manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. Tried to put new bolts on the manifold to pipe, couldn't get all of the old ones out, just the bottom halves, but that is when we noticed the other bolt missing.
So the shade tree days are over and I'm going to a real shop tonight to see when they can get to this.
First concern is my valves. I didn't know it was leaking this far up the exhaust. There is some black marks around where the bolt is broken where I am assuming it has been leaking. Like I said, it's been drivien this way for around 6 months if not a little longer. When it first happened it made extra noise, but the only performance issue was that it felt like the engine was missing, it have a very rough shake to it when it higher gear at lower RPM's. Really noticable on a hill (most of my drive to work is hills). I can kick it out of overdrive, and it smooths out. A few weeks ago when I found this site I did the DIY cold air intake for my air filter, and much to my surprise this really helped take the shake and shimmies out of it going up hill. So what do I need to look for once I get this fixed to let me know if the rest of my engine, mainly my valves since it is my understanding this is where the worst damage can occur at, is ok. Also is the DIY airbox mod going to harm, or speed up harming anything else, or is it ok to leave on for now.
Secondly, I need someone to point me to a 'Exahust systems for Dummies' article. Since the bolt is broke on my manifold, I'm assuming that either it broke due to increased pressure put on the bolt from the manifold warping, or if it wasn't warped before it is now. Just called my local dealership, and they want $339 for the driver side manifold. Like I hinted at, I get the concept behind manifolds and headers, but not very detailed. So can I replace my manifold's with headers, or do I need both? If I can replace them I'm thinking that I will look to see if I can't find a cheaper set of headers. I'm not really interested in any performace gain, just tring to save a buck while still getting my truck back in working order.
Agian, sorry for the simple/silly questions, but any help or insight would be greatly appriciated. I've searched the forum a little bit, but got more confused than I was when I started.
Read a little more and was able to answer my second question. So I'm off to look for a cheaper set of headers. Looks like summit is on the low end of the scale with JBJ and others closer to the top. I like the price of the summit headers, but if they aren't going to last long then they aren't worth saving a little bit of money over.
Thanks A lot!
Thanks A lot!
MTNMAN...I put the JBA's on because they were the only header I found using 14 guage SS. That said, if you want to go the manifold route let me know. I have the manifolds from my 02 5.4 with less that 25k miles on them for sale.
Can send pics of them if you want.
02 F150 Super Crew Lariat FX4 White & Silver
5.4 /w Roush Cold Air Intake & K&N filter
3.55 LS
Flowmaster Cat Back
JBA Titanium Cat4ward Headers
Rancho RSX's
Rancho Steering Stablizer
Hellwig Rear Anti Sway Bar
Lightning Tails
Outland Sport Bumper Guard
Hella 550's
Silverstars
Superchips 9100 Micro Tuner c/o Troyer Performance
Underdrive Pullies c/o Troyer Performance
Mag-Hytec Trans Pan
Can send pics of them if you want.02 F150 Super Crew Lariat FX4 White & Silver
5.4 /w Roush Cold Air Intake & K&N filter
3.55 LS
Flowmaster Cat Back
JBA Titanium Cat4ward Headers
Rancho RSX's
Rancho Steering Stablizer
Hellwig Rear Anti Sway Bar
Lightning Tails
Outland Sport Bumper Guard
Hella 550's
Silverstars
Superchips 9100 Micro Tuner c/o Troyer Performance
Underdrive Pullies c/o Troyer Performance
Mag-Hytec Trans Pan
My engine is a 4.6, will the 5.4 fit?
Thank you for the offer. If they do I will let you know if I need them or not. The shop is going to get ahold of it friday hopefully, so I should know something early next week if I'm going to need a new one or not.
Thank you for the offer. If they do I will let you know if I need them or not. The shop is going to get ahold of it friday hopefully, so I should know something early next week if I'm going to need a new one or not.
www.partstrain.com. They have a toll free number also. I just ordered both manifolds for my 97 5.4. They were $41.00 each. They have the 4.6 manifolds listed for I believe $33.00 each. Both of mine were in stock and with shipping to my door both totaled $98.00.
wow thanks for the link davet! That is deffintaly more within my price range.
Have you put yours on yet? If so did you have any problems with them fitting correctly?
edit: one other thing, when they talk about the left hand and right hand side, the left is the drivers side and passanger the right hand side correct? Looks that way from the photo's, but I figure I should at least ask.
Have you put yours on yet? If so did you have any problems with them fitting correctly?
edit: one other thing, when they talk about the left hand and right hand side, the left is the drivers side and passanger the right hand side correct? Looks that way from the photo's, but I figure I should at least ask.
I haven't received them yet. They said they shipped them out to me today. I'll let you know what they look like. I might not get to the project until the end of February so I wont know for a while how they fit. I'll check them for trueness I guess but thats all I can do until I put them on.
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Just got my www.partstrain.com manifolds yesterday. The invoice says 97-98 Econoline van, 5.4 engine. I called them and they said they were the same for the vans, pickups and Expeditions for those years. I'm still checking that out but they look the same. The quality doesn't appear as good as the Ford ones I looked at at the dealer today. They "seem" lighter but I didn't have them next to the Ford ones. Fit and finish is not as good with more casting rough spots. The ports seem to line up OK with the Felpro gaskets. They say China on them which doesn't make me happy.
My engine is knocking pretty good in the mornings so I'll keep them because they are cheap and who knows how much longer the engine will last. If I had a good running engine I would consider sending them back and buying a good set of headers which come with the studs. I do think the Ford studs may be better in the aluminum heads though than steel ones but I can't say for sure. The studs that connect the manifold to the pipe are not included with the manifolds and Ford gets $19.50 for 2 studs and 2 nuts which will do one side. If headers came with those too thats makes them a better deal yet. I saw in Sport Truck magazine many years ago that they did a test of different mods on a 1998 Expedition with the 5.4 engine. They saw 0 hp gains and 0 tq gains with Gibson headers. They said it was probably due to the older head design restricting flow. I would only go the header route because they would be cheaper than the factory manifolds.
My engine is knocking pretty good in the mornings so I'll keep them because they are cheap and who knows how much longer the engine will last. If I had a good running engine I would consider sending them back and buying a good set of headers which come with the studs. I do think the Ford studs may be better in the aluminum heads though than steel ones but I can't say for sure. The studs that connect the manifold to the pipe are not included with the manifolds and Ford gets $19.50 for 2 studs and 2 nuts which will do one side. If headers came with those too thats makes them a better deal yet. I saw in Sport Truck magazine many years ago that they did a test of different mods on a 1998 Expedition with the 5.4 engine. They saw 0 hp gains and 0 tq gains with Gibson headers. They said it was probably due to the older head design restricting flow. I would only go the header route because they would be cheaper than the factory manifolds.
OK. Econoline van and Expedition show matching part numbers and matching OEM numbers on the partstrain website. The problem is they show the exact same OEM numbers for both the right and left side which doesn't make sense. I called the dealer and got their OEM numbers for my Expy. One matches the website but the other one doesn't. The rep from partstrain says the Ford number I gave them from the dealer isn't in their system and offered me a refund for both manifolds. I called the dealer back and he compared the van and the Expy and they show the same part numbers so I'll keep them and try em'.
Summary: partstrain numbers are incorrect however the manifolds still interchange according to Ford.
Summary: partstrain numbers are incorrect however the manifolds still interchange according to Ford.
Thanks for the update davet. I may well just stick with Ford for new ones.
The garage I use told me that I'm going to have to have a new manifold for the drivers side. The fitting that the EGR tube goes into is rusted out so bad that they can't fit just a new fitting and tube in there.
I've talked with several people about putting headers on my truck and the consensus I've gotten is that it's a bad idea. They say that they are terible for leaks, and will almost never fit right. With that being said, and seeing so many people putting headers on their trucks on this site, just wondering what the deal is. For me, I want to fix it to where I don't have to worry about it again (or at least for another 200K miles). Not interested in any gains in performance, just want my exahust to stop leaking and keep it that way.
The garage I use told me that I'm going to have to have a new manifold for the drivers side. The fitting that the EGR tube goes into is rusted out so bad that they can't fit just a new fitting and tube in there.
I've talked with several people about putting headers on my truck and the consensus I've gotten is that it's a bad idea. They say that they are terible for leaks, and will almost never fit right. With that being said, and seeing so many people putting headers on their trucks on this site, just wondering what the deal is. For me, I want to fix it to where I don't have to worry about it again (or at least for another 200K miles). Not interested in any gains in performance, just want my exahust to stop leaking and keep it that way.



