I just ordered a 3" side swept Gibson for my truck and hope to install it at the end of the week. My question is: do I need to reset the computer after I install so it gets used to the new lower airflow restrictions. I also have a K&N filter and have not reset the computer after putting it in.

If I do need to reset the computer, how do I do it?

Thanks

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Y2K F150 SC 4x4
Trition 4.6, 5 sp manual
Tow Package, Factory CD
Sliding rear window, 3.55 LS pumpkins

Mods: Lund Deflecta-shield II, K & N filtercharger

 

Unplug your battery for a while.
I guess ten min will do. After you hook it up again you turn on your ignition and the rpm and speedo will swing all of the way to the right then back to where it useally is.
This is how they do it.
AHAB

 

I talked to gibson after I installed mine,he told me to disconnect the positive cable for 10 seconds, thats all it takes to reset the computer.Mine runs like a champ.GOOD LUCK

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01 supercrew,4x2,all black,5.4,captains chairs,355 ltd slip,trailer tow grp,remote keyless entry.
(MODS)gibson supertruck,K&N,expy console,lund intercepter,A.R.E LSII hard tonneau,tinted windows,E&G classics mesh speed grill,mud gaurds,ford seat covers, bed liner.

 

You can if you want to but I don't think you'll benefit any for having done so. I didn't when installing mine - still sounds and runs good...

Besides, then you've got to reprogram all your radio station presets and the clock.

Tom in Tacoma

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1998 F150 XLT S/C 4.6L Auto, 3.55LS, 4X2, Moonlight Blue, all the factory bells & whistles except for leather seats.

• Lund Deflector
• Lund Premier Tonneau Cover
• K&N Filter
• Body-color painted Throttle Cover
• Blue wire-looms
• Pentaliner S/R
• Window tint
• Ford side-steps
• Infiniti component speakers - front
• Polk Audio speakers - back
• Superchip (OH YEAH!!)
• Flowmaster 50 Series 'Delta-Flow' w/ 3" pipe
• Clear turn signal lenses
  
• Next up - billet grill.

Tom in Tacoma

(Washington not Toyota)
Go check out http://communities.msn.com/SS97FordsPics for the second best website for F150's

 

thanks for the info guys, now all I have to do is wait for the stuff to get here. I took a chance with Truck performance so I hope I don't get burned like some others have.

Thanks again,


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Y2K F150 SC 4x4
Trition 4.6, 5 sp manual
Tow Package, Factory CD
Sliding rear window, 3.55 LS pumpkins

Mods: Lund Deflecta-shield II, K & N filtercharger

 

I remember reading somewhere on the message boards that a 30 minute battery disconnect completely resets the computer. I've done this after each mod that I installed and plan on doing it again. There might be something about it in the owner's manual, but I'm not sure.

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99 F150XLT Oxford White Supercab Flareside, 5.4L V8 4x4 Off-Road, Power Captain's Chairs, Tow Package, Ford side nerf bars; Genuine Steel grill guard, Superchip, Gibson 3" single rear side-swept cat-back, K&N GII FIPK, Code Alarm 2100

 

I have a friend who runs the truck repair service of a local Ford dealer. He says you can reset the computer by removing the positive battery cable and touching it to the negative (DO NOT DO IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND). When you reconnect, the computer will then RELEARN the way you drive. The way you drive will be effected by the EXTRAS you have on the engine. I have done this right after purchasing my 97 F-150 and with each of the aftermarket items I have bolted on without untoward effects.

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Jocobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 4 yrs old and still turns heads...

 

After reading this thread, I realized that I hadn't reset my computer after installing my Jardine cat-back system (after driving it for 4 weeks!). Yes, it does make a difference!
Before the reset, it was pretty loud during all types of driving, and shifted a bit differently than without it (see Superchip benefits about shifting).
After the reset, it (to me) is level quieter, and the shifting is back to pre-installation behavior.
The long-and-the-short of it?...reset your computer, by disconnected the negative battery cable) after every modification.

A side note: To ensure complete electrical drain, turn on your headlights prior to pulling the negative cable.

Hope this helps....



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2000 Wedgewood Blue Expy XLT 5.4L

comfort\convenience group
towing package
beige interior
captain's chairs
6 CD Changer
16" AT/S

MODS
Ford Bug Deflector
Superchip - installed 3/11/2000
Airaid - installed 3/23/2000
Edelbrock IAS shocks - installed 3/23/2000
Jardine cat-back exhaust - installed 4/6/2000

 

WLF, that's dangerous advice.... someone here is going to do it incorrectly and fry the wiring harness on a truck ;-(

Best to just disconnect for 30 minutes.

-kindest regards

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1999 F150 4x4, wedgewood blue, 5.4l auto, Manick brush guard, Duraliner, KC Hilites, surf rod holders, tinted windows, K&N air filter without airbox, Velocity air intake tube, Midas Performance muffler with dual pipes, toolbox, Uniden CB with whip, and a Superchip.

 

This is a great piece of info! I've put a K&N fipk and a dynomax muffler on my Bronc a couple of months ago, I might as well try the battery disconnect.

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1995 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer. 351 V-8, 4 inch Pro-Comp suspension lift, K&N Filtercharger® FIPK, Dynomax, 32x11.50 Dunlops, Manik front/rear brush guards.

 

Dear wjt,
I would think that anyone who has the ability to do a major modification to his engine would also have the enough brain power to not reverse the battery cables and touch the negative to the positive. If they did, they will encounter a devise designed to protect the stupid from themselves called a fuse. I also want you to know that this IS how your Ford dealer is doing it. If you have the time, give it thirty mins and maybe the power will be drained from the computer brain, if not then do it the way that works.

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Jocobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 4 yrs old and still turns heads...

 

WLF,

You're making an "assumption" here. There are those whom are mechanically inclined to perform "Fords" computer reset procedure correctly. However, there are an equal amount of folks out there who think that they know what they are doing. They will get it wrong, and short the battery cables.

Sealed, maintance free batteries can explode from cable ends arcing...

Better to do it safely and with the least amount of risk. Let the Ford procedure be performed by Ford technicians.

I work in tech support. I frequently extricate people from difficult and self induced computer problems everday at work. They thought that they knew what they were doing. And end up calling for assistance.

Never, ever assume.

-kindest regards

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1999 F150 4x4, wedgewood blue, 5.4l auto, Manick brush guard, Duraliner, KC Hilites, surf rod holders, tinted windows, K&N air filter without airbox, Velocity air intake tube, Midas Performance muffler with dual pipes, toolbox, Uniden CB with whip, and a Superchip.

[This message has been edited by wjt (edited 05-11-2000).]

 

Honestly, I have never heard of resting the computer after an exhaust mod. I thought that It was only to be done when major engine mods were done like superchargers and headers.

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2000 White sport
4.2l V6 5spd
K&N filter
e-mail: XLR8@f50guy.com
Superchip
Single in dual out 40 series Flomaster

As soon as i can afford it: Airaid FIPK

 

Then you and me aren't alone Snow White...

Tom in Tacoma

 

Now that I have the exhaust on and running (very nice little rumble), I noticed that there is no drain hole at the back bottom of the muffler. Has anybody drilled a drain hole and if so where, (front or back). It seems as if my exhaust sits pretty level under the truck.

Thanks,


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2000 F150 SC SB 4x4 XLT
Trition 4.6, 5 sp manual, Factory class III tow package, sliding rear window,
3.55 LS pumpkins, P255 70R16 slippery when wet Goodyear RT/S

Mods: Lund Deflecta-shield II, K & N filtercharger, Gibson 3" side swept cat back exhaust