I noticed after just getting my new Flowmaster 40 put on that it seems like the truck is shifting at higher RPM's now. Also, it feels like it revs a little before shifting. Is this normal? 1st to 2nd used to shift at about 2000 RPM's, now it feels like 2300RPM. Also, from 3rd to 4th it shifts at about 55MPH and 2200RPM instead of 50MPH and 1900RPM. Does the computer need time to adjust? Is something wrong? Will this kill my gas mileage? The truck only has 600 miles on it, so should I still unplug the battery to reset the computer? Is there a "break-in" period for Flowmasters? Am I a paranoid super-freak? Will these questions ever stop?

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BigDawg
2000 F-150 SuperCab
5.4L V8
3.31 Gear
FlowMaster 40 Series

 

Are you sure it's not just because you're pushing the pedal down a little farther to here that new exhaust?

Did you unplug your computer after the install? If not go ahead and do it. Then the computer will optimize itself to the mod. It's not necessary to do it, but everything I've read has recommended it after each time you change something.



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2000 F150 XLT 4X4 Off Road 5.4L Reg. Cab
K&N, WMS Velocity Tube, and Gibson Sweptside...

(For now)

 

I'm experiencing the same problem with mine. I installed Flowmaster 50 Series SUV on my 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4 Supercab about 1 1/2 months ago. I lost a lot of low end, but haven't noticed much gain on top. Before the new exhaust, I would have to put the truck into overdrive at about 50-55 mph, now I leave it in until I reach 65 and my RPM's are around 2300. I now only get about 15-16mpg. I did unhook the battery for about 25 minutes and it seemed to help a little, but not by much.

Let me know if you find any way to improve.

 

Well, when I made the original post, I had not reset the computer. Several days later I installed an Airaid FIPK w/ K&N Filter and had to reset the computer during install. What a huge difference!!! I don't know if it was the resetting of the computer, the installation of the Airaid, or the combination of the Airaid and the exhaust, but everything felt great. That was 2 weeks ago and everything has been running fantastic ever since. I only got 14MPG last tank full, but that's because I couldn't keep my foot off the pedal. The added HP was more obvious. I'm deliberately making an attempt this tankful to keep my foot out of it to see what kind of mileage I can get. I'll post again and let you guys know. Today was a sad day. My truck turned 1,000 miles. ;(

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BigDawg
2000 F-150 SuperCab
Oxford White/Harvest Gold
5.4L V8
3.31 Gear
Husky Liners
Ford Duraliner
FlowMaster 40 Series
K&N FilterCharger
Airaid FIPK

 

BigDawg,

Like you I just installed Airaid and FM 50. Even though I had a heavier foot I still got 1 mpg more than usual. I'm having more fun and getting better mileage. What more can I ask for (yeah right)?
My shift points are just like what you described. I did already reset the computer. I did notice that when towing my trailer the transmission would kick down later when I put my foot into it. Anotherwords small hills that the transmission would kick down before I can cruise through in OD.

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F150IslandBoy
1997 F150 Lariat
SuperCab, Toreador Red w/ Gold, Styleside, 4.6L, A/T, A/C, 3.55 3800 Limited Slip, Class 3 Tow Package, Leather Captain Seats, Sliding Rear Window.
Modifications:
Airaid FIPK, Flowmaster Delta Flow 50 Series, Bugflector II, Viper 500ESP Alarm, Pendaliner Bedliner, Cobra Trapshooter 3 Radar Detector, CARR Tubular Nerf Bars, NFA 1400 Compact 55W=>85W Halogen O.E. Lights, Durango 255/70R16, Chrome eyelet tie downs, Smoked front lic. plate cover.

 

I have not purchased the entire setup yet, but I have installed and modified the airbox with the K&N filter.
Question: after installing the air filter, to see a change do I have to reset the computer? and if so how do I do it, just unhook the battery for a spell, or is there more to it than that?

 

TexasSport- unhook battery, turn on lights for a few minutes, TURN OFF LIGHTS, rehook battery, and when truck is started gauges should spike.

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back,
3" exit Y-pipe, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar.

 

Texas Sport...what exactly does turning the lights on w/the battery disconnected do??

 

I think what he meant to say was turn your headlights on, then disconect the battery for awhile then turn your lights off before you reconnect the battery...I think.

 

I think what he meant to say was turn your headlights on, then disconect the battery for awhile then turn your lights off before you reconnect the battery...I think.

 

I think what he meant to say was turn your headlights on, then disconect the battery for awhile then turn your lights off before you reconnect the battery...I think.

 

68xlch, runtune2- the headlights are turned on AFTER battery disconnect (for 5 or so minutes). This drains the residual current. Make sure to turn them back off BEFORE re-connection; to prevent spark/arc. Good Luck !

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back,
3" exit Y-pipe, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar.

 

Thanks Max for the info, sorry for the same post 3 times- how imbarassing, my computer froze up just as I was hitting the submit button. Just like a chevy! LOL

 

Do you have to do this on pre 97s too? I put dual exhaust on my 96 and the K&N, noticed a lot with the exhaust, but next to nothing with the K&N. Should I reset my computer and is it the same process?

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1996 F150 4x4 302, 102,000 miles