I have a 2000 F-150 and am having similar problems except my left turn signal is always screwy in lane change mode or in turn mode. The rear bulb blinks rapidly but the front and dash do not. This started as an occasional problem but now it is consistently messed up. Seems like it could have something to do with humidity or rainy weather possibly??? Thanks.

 

Definitely a common problem that should be addressed! I had a 97 that did it at 70k miles, and now I"ve got a 2001, thats in the shop on its second switch. First one broke at about 18k miles. I knew it was tied to the tilt, so i just decided not to tilt the wheel anymore. I probably did it 5 or 6 times since, and again yesterday and poof, it broke again. Warranty repair I hope will cover it, because it sure is a crappy design if for the past 6 years or so, it still happens.

 

I think Ford had the B team design that turn signal. Have you ever noticed that the turn signal won't find and hold a detent position for a turn unless the steering wheel is centered? Every time it goofs it makes me want to find the moron who designed it and slap some sense into him. I never have driven any other vehicle that acted like this.

 

Right blinker on my '98 was acting up so I decided to pull it apart. I have a few tips for those that want to attempt this DIY.

The three screws in the bottom of the column are #1 phillips heads.

I did not need to remove the lock assembly, which was a good thing (I'll explain later) removing the top of the cover was not required, the left side lifts up far enough to get the switch out, and there isn't much space to be gained by removing it anyhow.

The adjustment arm for the wheel unscrews, but is on very tight. I unscrewed it first, and wound up putting it in and pulling it out throughout the process to adjust the angle, so don't throw it too far.

The switch is held on with 2 Torx T-20 screws. If you don't have a T-20 driver, don't even bother trying to start this.

Getting the plugs off was a major PIA, two small straight blade screwdrivers are the only thing that will get the small plug's locks released. The big plug came off easier.

The switch is sealed with 5 small allen head screws. They may be torx, but a small standard size allen wrench worked for me.

The small parts inside are spring loaded, and touchy. Open the switch slowly, and look carefully at the positions of everything first.

I used alcohol and cotton swabs to remove the green gunk, I dont think scraping is a good idea, too many places to have stuff fall into that you can't get at.

Put the switch together carefully!! One false move and something won't work. I did not have the blade of the stalk lined up properly in the white "floating piece with 2 contacts." When I reinstalled the switch the first thing I did was hook up the PIA small plug....The Hi-Beam FLASH TO PASS was engaged because of the way I had put the switch together. And the HI BEAMS were stuck ON. If I had removed the battery cable and ignition switch I would not have known until after I was done. Be careful.

The 3 phillips screws that hold the column collar together mate up to 3 "screw posts" that are molded into the top half of the collar. Take care to get the posts lined up, otherwise the screws don't have anything to bite into.

The project wasn't too hard, but it is a tight fit for big hands. A flashlight between your teeth is helpful, and one of those little lights on a headband or clipped to your glasses would help out.

You can do this, don't be scared. If I had put the switch together properly the first time it would have been less than an hour. I could probably do it in less than 30 min next time.

Good Luck!

 

Thanks to everyone who have posted info on fixing this problem. The only thing I have to add after attempting this fix is be certain that you check all of the contacts. I was almost done cleaning everything up when I discovered 2 contacts hidden deep within the assembly. One of the two contacts was seriously corroded and had gotten very hot at some point (probably that smell I noticed the other day!) and had burned the plastic that held the contact. So much for saving a the part money. At least my truck didn't catch fire!

 

I have a 2002 F150 XLT SC. My troubles started at about 1 year. At first it was just the left signal, then by the time I got it to the shop (warranty) both left and right were acting up. It was definitely related to the tilt, all the way down and second from the bottom and it would not work, above that it was fine. Shop told me they disassembled it and found no problem, just that the plug was loose. Soon after (about 2 months later) the same situation. This time the shop said that the plug was crushed and broken due to the wiring being too short which caused the plug to come out and was then crushed in the tilt mechanism. They replaced the plug and added short lengths of wire to allow more play in the tilt without pulling the plug. That lasted about 4-5 months. You guessed it, same problem again, only it was immediate, neither signal worked. This time they did not even try they just replaced the entire switch mechanism. I thought that finally this would do some good. Well here it is about 2 months later and the d - - - thing is not working again. I stuck my finger in the top of the column tilt while in the down position and felt for the wires. After pushing the wires gently it started working. As soon as I moved the tilt it stopped again. I am going to take it to the shop while I still have a few miles left on the warranty, but I am getting awfully tired of this. I agree with an earlier reply I read. The engineer that designed this must have been a moron. Ford if fast loosing my respect. From what I have read here this has been a problem for a long time and a lot of model years. I have been a loyal Fordian for many years, feeling really bad when I bought a Dodge van several years ago. Guess what, the van just turned over 100K and has only been in the shop one time for a new AC compressor . . . but I digress . . .

 

I finally pulled my signal switch out and cleaned it up. I am surprised that it worked at all.

turn signal 1

turn signal 2

turn signal 3

 

I have a 97 F150 V6.

I read this link several times before finally deciding to try to fix my turn signal problem.

I decided to follow Mar's lead and remove the top and bottom steering cover, and ignition switch. That was more of a learning lesson for me.

Flafonman, thanks for your direction also. You are right, the tilt adjustment arm was on very, very tight. I spent most of my time just trying to get that thing unscrewed. And yes, everything is sensitive once you get into the actual switch.

Ted'98, thanks, thanks, thanks for the pics. When I finally got into the signal switch, mine looked just like yours. So I faithfully cleaned it with alcohol and ear swabs.

It was doing the 'double-speed' ticking prior to my cleaning it. Afterwards, no problems at all....and it passed state inspection.

So, I had to say "Thank You" to each of you for your guidance...I could not have accomplished this DIY project without you. Mel

 

Had a very similar problem on my 2000 F150. It turned out to be the wiring harness connection which controls the OD and turn signals, etc. and is mounted on top of the steering column, just behind the steering wheel. The problem is the plastic connector locking tab becomes brittle and breaks as the tilt wheel is used; particularly in the downward motion.

I removed the top and bottom steering column covers first of all. When I tilted my wheel down, I could see that the connectors would pull out of one another and not make contact. However when I tilted my wheel up, it was fine. The wires were tied with electrical tape so tight that when the wheel would move down, it broke the connector.

I removed all of the electrical tape from around the wires to give it more slack for movement. Then, I brought the old connectors into the Ford dealership and was able to purchase a new male/female connector. Lastly, I punched down the wires.

I hope this helps.

Jeff

 

Thanks for all the help everybody!

My right rear blinker and brake light were not working correctly and all the posts were a great help! THANK YOU!

In my case a wire had pulled out of the harness which would activate the problem whenever the tilt wheel was not up all the way. After taking it all apart and cleaning out all the goo I went to reassemble everything and noticed the pulled out wire....plugged it in and bingo working great!

P.S. The tip about using a T20 torx and how to remove the ignition were an unbelieveable help..thanks again

 

Yup, thanks to those who have done this before, and posted the help. I did mine this past Thursday night. I had no issues. Cleaned mine up with electrical spray cleaner, and #0000 steel wool. A good spray of cleaner, and a blast of air took care of any bits of grime and steel wool bits. Dielectric grease was applied to all exposed copper surfaces, and the reassembly was done. All told, it took about an hour.

Thanks again.

 

My blinkers have been driving me nut's for week's, I am on my way out to take them apart right now!!!

 

Ok got it all back togeather and they WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you guy's for the step by step and pics!!!!!!

This form is the best thing that ever happend to my truck!!!

 

I have the same problem with my rear blinker on my 2000 F-150 but the kicker is the brake light will not work either. The tail light works when my head lights are no but not the blinker and the brake light. I have swapped the socket and bulbs from the working left side and it still doesnt work. However, I noticed that the left side wires had what looked like a ground wire attached to before the connection but the right side didnt. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a grnd. attached to the right side too? I was going to take apart and clean up the blinker switch but a corroded blinker switch wouldnt explain the non working brake light. any advice is appreciated.

 

I have the same problem as XBART. 2001 F-150 fast flashing with both forward lights working but no rear blinkers or brake lights. Will look at the switch tonight. Any other areas that I should check?

Thanks,

Don F