Dewayne - thanks for the advise..yes....It does seem to work better with a full wave antenna - thanks!

(Oh - I can see this is going nowhere fast...)

 

I noticed my remote battery getting weaker and I'm too cheap to buy a new one. I solved the problem by parking closer.

800 feet? If I had to walk 800' after I unlocked the truck, I'd forget where I was going.

Another thing, how come some of you are still running around with *********? Mine have been full production for I don't know how long.

 

Rawen,

Sorry for the delayed response. You gotta love the members of this board and their very entertaining replies.


Anyway, this thread is now really just academic...

That's right! Frequency is inversely proportional to wavelength and either can be derived from the following:

" 1/4 wave length (in inches) is equal to 234 / f (MHz) x 12 ".

(My aftermarket remote operates on 318 MHz. One wavelength equals 2.94 ft.)

There is really no way to even attempt to modify the remote without knowing it's frequency and some RF test equipment.

No offense, but assuming you could effectively and correctly lengthen the antenna, it would alter it's impedance thus reducing the transmitter's efficiency. This would reduce it's range and could damage the transmitter's power amplifier.

It would need to be re-matched. That's where the test equipment comes in.

The antenna (trace) is likely "loaded" with a variable coil, capacitor, or some other adjustable means to "match" it to the transmitter.

This "matching" adjusts for the slight differences, or tolerance, in components (including the printed circuit board "trace") so as to maximize the transmitter's output and increasing it's range.

If no means of adjustment is present, some transmitters will work better than others (because of tolerance stack-up), and only some will work as good as possible depending on the quality of the components.

Of course all of this is applicable to the receiver's antenna too except the risk of damaging something is almost nill since no "power" is involved.

Later... XLT_D

 

Thanks to all for the funny, practical, and knowledgeable replies. I've been reading this board for a lot longer than I've been a member and I've learned some very valuable info that would be hard to come by elsewhere. I've gotten a lot of good laughs too!
I guess I'll try to park as close as possible to the apt. this winter, use the chin/forehead method, and forget about reinventing the wheel.

 

My 97 F150 with stock alarm/keyless entry also had a short transmitter range. About 60 feet in open area. I was going to try to increase my range by taking the transmitter apart and drilling 2 to 3 small holes on the antenna side of the remote. I figured that the radio waves would travel better thru the small holes instead of eminating thru the plastic remote casing. I sold my truck before getting the chance to test that theory. Has anybody else tried this?

 

The plastic has little if any effect.

Drilling holes will not help.

But it will help get that lint out of your pockets.

Happy Holidays 2001!

XLT_D

 

Just to add my positive experience with the remote on chin deal. It really does work. I used to do it with the alarm I had on another car. Worked like a charm. Seemed to double the distance you usually needed to activate normally.

Wonder if that explains the strange growth on my chin!

 

I have one of those remote starters that say they work for up to a quarter mile, well, they don't. My instructions say that it may function up to 1/3 of a mile, but they advertise 1/4. I am glad if I get 200'.

It is fun being parked next to some fancy SUV (4x4 my ***!) and then click the start button. They start giving funny looks when this beat up, 80's model 4x4 starts with no one in it (which thier $35,000 model won't do), use my remote power door locks to get in, and then sit down and roll down my power windows

Oh yeah, I paid $1500 for my truck