Alternator Ratings
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Okay KYFordFreak,
I think we may be getting somewhere now. Sounds like the tester can sense RPMs itself. I think that as the RPMs go up, the tester automatically increases the load. Of course, the load can go only so high until the alternator has peaked out power wise. At the point of max output, the tester must help to stabilize the load in the circuit.
If there were a way to load up the alternator manually, I would bet that you could get all sorts of amps out of that unit without reving the engine, however the engine might stall or more likely the belt would slip. This is the only thing I'm trying to clear up here, there can never be just one and only one current output for a given RPM in and of itself. The output has to be determined by the load applied and not purely by how fast you spin the alternator pulley. If the latter was not true then if someone reved their engine to 2000 RPMs, with no tester hooked up, according to your's and Beastrider's logic, the alternator would deliver 138 amps. Just where the he// are those 138 amps going too, into thin air? Surely the truck is not all of a sudden using up 138 amps just because the engine is turning 2000 RPMs. To me, this is very basic, or I'm just out to lunch. For now, or until someone comes up with some convincing, I'm sticking with my original statements.
I surely don't want to get into a pissing contest here but I think I'm using some logic and technical reasoning. In response to my statements, I'm getting lots of assumptions and test data that are lacking understanding of it's origin.
DaveMan
I think we may be getting somewhere now. Sounds like the tester can sense RPMs itself. I think that as the RPMs go up, the tester automatically increases the load. Of course, the load can go only so high until the alternator has peaked out power wise. At the point of max output, the tester must help to stabilize the load in the circuit.
If there were a way to load up the alternator manually, I would bet that you could get all sorts of amps out of that unit without reving the engine, however the engine might stall or more likely the belt would slip. This is the only thing I'm trying to clear up here, there can never be just one and only one current output for a given RPM in and of itself. The output has to be determined by the load applied and not purely by how fast you spin the alternator pulley. If the latter was not true then if someone reved their engine to 2000 RPMs, with no tester hooked up, according to your's and Beastrider's logic, the alternator would deliver 138 amps. Just where the he// are those 138 amps going too, into thin air? Surely the truck is not all of a sudden using up 138 amps just because the engine is turning 2000 RPMs. To me, this is very basic, or I'm just out to lunch. For now, or until someone comes up with some convincing, I'm sticking with my original statements.
I surely don't want to get into a pissing contest here but I think I'm using some logic and technical reasoning. In response to my statements, I'm getting lots of assumptions and test data that are lacking understanding of it's origin.
DaveMan
Last edited by DAVEMAN; Sep 27, 2001 at 12:47 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
You are excatly correct. The Arbst Bear tester does sense the RPM range and automatically adjusts the load. How much of a load is unknown to me (I would say fairly heavy). I think we both (or maybe just me) might be a little confused on the working principles of modern alternators. I might post back when I have more concrete info and time to look over it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Daveman, You're mostly right on... here's why.
Alternator Basics
Like electric motors, there are two basic parts to an alternator: a stationary part, the STATOR, and a rotating part, the ROTOR. From an electrical perspective, there are also two parts to an alternator, the FIELD, the magnetic field through which a wire is moved in order to produce an electric current, and the ARMATURE, the wire(s) that move through the electric field in order to produce an electric current.
There are two type of alternators available: rotating armature and rotating field. A rotating armature alternator works like a DC generator… a magnetic field is induced in the stator, and the current is drawn off the rotor. A problem with this design is that it is hard to insulate the slip rings against voltage arcs, etc. Thus, almost all alternators, including those in automobiles are rotating field alternators. In this design, a small DC voltage is run through the rotor. This makes the rotor behave as an electromagnet with fixed poles that rotate. It is easy to take the current off the armature since it is the stator and not moving.
In an automobile, there are two kinds of rotating field alternators. The first is called the self exciting alternator. It uses its own voltage (after being converted by the diodes to DC) to excite the rotor. However, when the alternator is not moving, there is no voltage present, and thus, there must be an external voltage source applied until the alternator runs. This voltage source comes from the battery through the battery light on your dash board, and onto the alternator. Thus there is a small voltage available at startup, which is no longer needed when the alternator starts turning. The other type of alternator is externally excited by a wire from the battery, but these are less common in automobiles. Finally, some very large alternators have their own built in generator to excite the field rotor.
The basic process of current generation is straight forward. As the rotor turns past a pole in the stator, it causes the magnetic field to vary at the stator pole, from almost no magnetic field, to the maximum magnetic field when the poles of the rotor are closest to the poles of the stator. A varying magnetic field causes a varying electric field to be induced in the wires of the stator, an electromotive force (emf). The electric field causes a current to be induced in the wire when a load is connected. The current in the wire causes a magnetic field to be formed in the stator, and it is this magnetic field that opposes the magnetic field in the rotor and tries to keep it from turning. This is the source of the torque required to turn an alternator, and as the current increases, so does the magnetic field in the stator, and hence, the power required to turn the generator.
The voltage produced by an alternator is controlled by the length of the wires passing through the changing magnetic field (or the number of windings in the coils), the strength of the magnetic fields through which the windings pass (which is controlled by the field voltage in the rotor), and the RPM’s at which the alternator is driven. Of the three, the construction of the alternator is the only thing that cannot be changed. Thus, for a given RPM, one can increase the voltage output by increasing the field voltage of the rotor, and for a given magnetic field strength, one can increase the RPM’s to get more voltage.
In an automobile, alternators have either an internal or external voltage regulator, with internal regulators being more common. They purpose of the regulator is to keep the voltage between 13 and 16 or so volts. At lower/lowest RPM’s the alternator is designed to produce the minimum voltage (although if you put on power pulleys, this may no longer be the case). As RPM’s increase, the voltage regulator begins cutting out the voltage supplied to the field rotor to keep the alternator output under the maximum allowed value.
So far, nothing has been said of current output. In a DC system, the relationship between voltage and current can be simply expressed as V = I * R, where V is the voltage, I is the current, and R is the resistance of the load attached to the alternator. Alternating current fields are affected by two other phenomenon: Inductance, which is caused by a coil of wire with current flowing through it, and capacitance, which is caused by capacitors, and also by coils under certain operating conditions. The two together are called the reactance of the AC circuit.
AC voltage and current flows in phases. It starts at 0, peaks at the maximum voltage and current, goes back down to 0, then peaks at the maximum negative voltage and current before returning back to zero to complete one cycle. This is caused by the rotation of the field rotor poles as they pass the armature poles. In an alternator that has no load on it, the peaks for both current and voltage occur at the same time… that is, they are in phase with one another.
Reactance causes the voltage and current peaks to get out of phase with one another. An inductor or coil causes the current peak to lag the voltage peak, while a capacitor causes the current peak to lead the voltage peak. Why are you wading through all of this? Because it explains why an alternator designed for a given current can’t simply keep putting out more current as the torque is increased.
There are two factors which affect the amount of current the alternator can put out. The first is simple heating caused by the current flow in the windings. Heat output is power output which is expressed as P (power) is I^2 * R. In other words, doubling the current output, quadruples the heat output. While this is a problem, it is not the main limiting factor in current output in an alternator.
Because of the reactance noted above, a reverse emf is generated in the stator coils which tends to oppose the current flowing through the wires. As the current flow grows larger and larger, so does the emf until it reaches a point that it overcomes the emf generated as a result of the rotating field rotor, and current will not flow at a greater rate, no matter how much torque is applied. This is a simplification, but the point is that alternators are self limiting in the amount of current they can produce because they are AC devices that are subject to the laws of magnetics.
To summarize: Alternators put out a voltage, which is RPM dependent and dependent upon the field strength of the rotor. The current which is drawn from an alternator is dependent upon the load. Small loads (high resistance) cause small currents, which in turn cause small reverse emf. Large loads (low resistance) cause large currents which create large reverse emf’s to limit current flow. The higher the load, the greater the phase shift between current and voltage maximums, which results in the larger reverse emf.
Now it is possible to talk about how the equipment used to measure alternator output works. It measures RPM so we have a convenient measure to relate RPM’s to output. It produces a load, which really means that the resistance in the circuit to the alternator is brought closer and closer to zero. For example, at 12 volts, 1 amp of current will flow through a resistance of 12 ohms, while at 6 ohms, 2 amps of current will flow. What the equipment does then, is for a given RPM, it reduces the load resistance and measures the increase in current. When the current will no longer increase, even as the load resistance is being lowered, the machine notes this value and pops it up as the measured alternator output for a given RPM.
This is a fairly simplified explanation of AC alternators, If anyone wants the underlying Farady and Maxwell equations which relate emf, magnetic fields, current, and wire length/swept area together, I’ll be happy to scan and email
Alternator Basics
Like electric motors, there are two basic parts to an alternator: a stationary part, the STATOR, and a rotating part, the ROTOR. From an electrical perspective, there are also two parts to an alternator, the FIELD, the magnetic field through which a wire is moved in order to produce an electric current, and the ARMATURE, the wire(s) that move through the electric field in order to produce an electric current.
There are two type of alternators available: rotating armature and rotating field. A rotating armature alternator works like a DC generator… a magnetic field is induced in the stator, and the current is drawn off the rotor. A problem with this design is that it is hard to insulate the slip rings against voltage arcs, etc. Thus, almost all alternators, including those in automobiles are rotating field alternators. In this design, a small DC voltage is run through the rotor. This makes the rotor behave as an electromagnet with fixed poles that rotate. It is easy to take the current off the armature since it is the stator and not moving.
In an automobile, there are two kinds of rotating field alternators. The first is called the self exciting alternator. It uses its own voltage (after being converted by the diodes to DC) to excite the rotor. However, when the alternator is not moving, there is no voltage present, and thus, there must be an external voltage source applied until the alternator runs. This voltage source comes from the battery through the battery light on your dash board, and onto the alternator. Thus there is a small voltage available at startup, which is no longer needed when the alternator starts turning. The other type of alternator is externally excited by a wire from the battery, but these are less common in automobiles. Finally, some very large alternators have their own built in generator to excite the field rotor.
The basic process of current generation is straight forward. As the rotor turns past a pole in the stator, it causes the magnetic field to vary at the stator pole, from almost no magnetic field, to the maximum magnetic field when the poles of the rotor are closest to the poles of the stator. A varying magnetic field causes a varying electric field to be induced in the wires of the stator, an electromotive force (emf). The electric field causes a current to be induced in the wire when a load is connected. The current in the wire causes a magnetic field to be formed in the stator, and it is this magnetic field that opposes the magnetic field in the rotor and tries to keep it from turning. This is the source of the torque required to turn an alternator, and as the current increases, so does the magnetic field in the stator, and hence, the power required to turn the generator.
The voltage produced by an alternator is controlled by the length of the wires passing through the changing magnetic field (or the number of windings in the coils), the strength of the magnetic fields through which the windings pass (which is controlled by the field voltage in the rotor), and the RPM’s at which the alternator is driven. Of the three, the construction of the alternator is the only thing that cannot be changed. Thus, for a given RPM, one can increase the voltage output by increasing the field voltage of the rotor, and for a given magnetic field strength, one can increase the RPM’s to get more voltage.
In an automobile, alternators have either an internal or external voltage regulator, with internal regulators being more common. They purpose of the regulator is to keep the voltage between 13 and 16 or so volts. At lower/lowest RPM’s the alternator is designed to produce the minimum voltage (although if you put on power pulleys, this may no longer be the case). As RPM’s increase, the voltage regulator begins cutting out the voltage supplied to the field rotor to keep the alternator output under the maximum allowed value.
So far, nothing has been said of current output. In a DC system, the relationship between voltage and current can be simply expressed as V = I * R, where V is the voltage, I is the current, and R is the resistance of the load attached to the alternator. Alternating current fields are affected by two other phenomenon: Inductance, which is caused by a coil of wire with current flowing through it, and capacitance, which is caused by capacitors, and also by coils under certain operating conditions. The two together are called the reactance of the AC circuit.
AC voltage and current flows in phases. It starts at 0, peaks at the maximum voltage and current, goes back down to 0, then peaks at the maximum negative voltage and current before returning back to zero to complete one cycle. This is caused by the rotation of the field rotor poles as they pass the armature poles. In an alternator that has no load on it, the peaks for both current and voltage occur at the same time… that is, they are in phase with one another.
Reactance causes the voltage and current peaks to get out of phase with one another. An inductor or coil causes the current peak to lag the voltage peak, while a capacitor causes the current peak to lead the voltage peak. Why are you wading through all of this? Because it explains why an alternator designed for a given current can’t simply keep putting out more current as the torque is increased.
There are two factors which affect the amount of current the alternator can put out. The first is simple heating caused by the current flow in the windings. Heat output is power output which is expressed as P (power) is I^2 * R. In other words, doubling the current output, quadruples the heat output. While this is a problem, it is not the main limiting factor in current output in an alternator.
Because of the reactance noted above, a reverse emf is generated in the stator coils which tends to oppose the current flowing through the wires. As the current flow grows larger and larger, so does the emf until it reaches a point that it overcomes the emf generated as a result of the rotating field rotor, and current will not flow at a greater rate, no matter how much torque is applied. This is a simplification, but the point is that alternators are self limiting in the amount of current they can produce because they are AC devices that are subject to the laws of magnetics.
To summarize: Alternators put out a voltage, which is RPM dependent and dependent upon the field strength of the rotor. The current which is drawn from an alternator is dependent upon the load. Small loads (high resistance) cause small currents, which in turn cause small reverse emf. Large loads (low resistance) cause large currents which create large reverse emf’s to limit current flow. The higher the load, the greater the phase shift between current and voltage maximums, which results in the larger reverse emf.
Now it is possible to talk about how the equipment used to measure alternator output works. It measures RPM so we have a convenient measure to relate RPM’s to output. It produces a load, which really means that the resistance in the circuit to the alternator is brought closer and closer to zero. For example, at 12 volts, 1 amp of current will flow through a resistance of 12 ohms, while at 6 ohms, 2 amps of current will flow. What the equipment does then, is for a given RPM, it reduces the load resistance and measures the increase in current. When the current will no longer increase, even as the load resistance is being lowered, the machine notes this value and pops it up as the measured alternator output for a given RPM.
This is a fairly simplified explanation of AC alternators, If anyone wants the underlying Farady and Maxwell equations which relate emf, magnetic fields, current, and wire length/swept area together, I’ll be happy to scan and email
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Hey Beastrider,
I'm speechless! I think you missed your calling, should have been a professor or something, but then again maybe you are one he// of a Cartographer too.
I think I know when I've been beat, so now your challenge is to put all that flute music into layman's terms or else you will be sittin' mostly alone.
BTW, I already knew all that stuff too plus a whole lot more but I didn't want to crash this website's hard drive with so much data. Oh and might I add, my Great-Great-Great-Grandfathter was James Clerk Maxwell, on my mother's side of course.
DaveMan
I'm speechless! I think you missed your calling, should have been a professor or something, but then again maybe you are one he// of a Cartographer too.
I think I know when I've been beat, so now your challenge is to put all that flute music into layman's terms or else you will be sittin' mostly alone.
BTW, I already knew all that stuff too plus a whole lot more but I didn't want to crash this website's hard drive with so much data. Oh and might I add, my Great-Great-Great-Grandfathter was James Clerk Maxwell, on my mother's side of course.
DaveMan
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Richarson, TX
Hey Beastrider,
Thanks you for an elegant, thorough, and educational post on a difficult subject. It has been 15 years since my transformer/motors class(Elect. Enginering) and your description was a great review. While some might argue that the description is too complex for this thread, I would say that it is a complex device and deserves a correct answer. Thanks again.
For those who are less engineering oriented, when I was back in High School I was told a very simplified description of the alternator/regulator that I think still holds true today. As far as I know, the alternators still function the same way they did 20 years ago. Again, it is simplified and a bit incomplete but it makes it easy.
As stated so well earlier, the output of the alternator increases with the speed of the rotor and the current sent to the rotor. In normal driving we don't worry about the speed of the engine or alternator so forget about that part. So, the output of the alternator depends upon the current sent to the rotor. When the car is running, the regulator wants to see the voltage on the battery stay about 14 volts. When the voltage drops at the battery, the regulator increases the voltage (and hence the current) delivered to the alternator rotor. With more current on the rotor you get a stronger field, and the alternator puts out more power. When the battery voltage increases over 14 the regulator reduces the voltage (and current) delivered to the rotor.
I can't resist adding more.
A fully charged lead-acid battery stays at 12.6 Volts. When the regulator keeps the Voltage at 14 it means that the battery is always being charged. If the battery is already fully charged, the excess energy tends to just heat the battery.
If the alternator is putting out more power than needed, the battery voltage goes up and the regulator will reduce the output of the alternator. If the alternator is putting out less power than needed (or the battery is discharged), the Voltage will drop below 12.6 and the regulator can adjust as needed. Thus, by monitoring the battery voltage, the regulator can insure that the alternator puts out just about the amount of power that the car is using at any time.
Knowing this also makes it easy to troubleshoot your electrical system the next time you think that your "battery" has died. Start the car and let it run for 15 minutes to charge the battery a bit. If the battery voltage doesn't rise above 13 when the engine is running (1800-2000rpm), it is probably a bad regulator or alternator. The battery is not getting charged. If the battery voltage rises above 13 when running it is a bad battery. If the voltage is over 15 - 16 you probably have a bad regulator. This will overcharge your battery and will often boil all the water out of the battery (if you have the old maintenance type).
Thanks you for an elegant, thorough, and educational post on a difficult subject. It has been 15 years since my transformer/motors class(Elect. Enginering) and your description was a great review. While some might argue that the description is too complex for this thread, I would say that it is a complex device and deserves a correct answer. Thanks again.
For those who are less engineering oriented, when I was back in High School I was told a very simplified description of the alternator/regulator that I think still holds true today. As far as I know, the alternators still function the same way they did 20 years ago. Again, it is simplified and a bit incomplete but it makes it easy.
As stated so well earlier, the output of the alternator increases with the speed of the rotor and the current sent to the rotor. In normal driving we don't worry about the speed of the engine or alternator so forget about that part. So, the output of the alternator depends upon the current sent to the rotor. When the car is running, the regulator wants to see the voltage on the battery stay about 14 volts. When the voltage drops at the battery, the regulator increases the voltage (and hence the current) delivered to the alternator rotor. With more current on the rotor you get a stronger field, and the alternator puts out more power. When the battery voltage increases over 14 the regulator reduces the voltage (and current) delivered to the rotor.
I can't resist adding more.
A fully charged lead-acid battery stays at 12.6 Volts. When the regulator keeps the Voltage at 14 it means that the battery is always being charged. If the battery is already fully charged, the excess energy tends to just heat the battery.
If the alternator is putting out more power than needed, the battery voltage goes up and the regulator will reduce the output of the alternator. If the alternator is putting out less power than needed (or the battery is discharged), the Voltage will drop below 12.6 and the regulator can adjust as needed. Thus, by monitoring the battery voltage, the regulator can insure that the alternator puts out just about the amount of power that the car is using at any time.
Knowing this also makes it easy to troubleshoot your electrical system the next time you think that your "battery" has died. Start the car and let it run for 15 minutes to charge the battery a bit. If the battery voltage doesn't rise above 13 when the engine is running (1800-2000rpm), it is probably a bad regulator or alternator. The battery is not getting charged. If the battery voltage rises above 13 when running it is a bad battery. If the voltage is over 15 - 16 you probably have a bad regulator. This will overcharge your battery and will often boil all the water out of the battery (if you have the old maintenance type).
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Hey Infernal,
I'll try with you then. Just where does 130 amps from the alternator at full speed actually go? What is consuming 130 amps? If you can answer that question, then I think I will have the answer to what I have been looking for.
Beastrider insists that there is a specific current from the alternator for each specific RPM and thus at full speed it should be delivering 130 amps, but to where and why?
Help
DaveMan
I'll try with you then. Just where does 130 amps from the alternator at full speed actually go? What is consuming 130 amps? If you can answer that question, then I think I will have the answer to what I have been looking for.
Beastrider insists that there is a specific current from the alternator for each specific RPM and thus at full speed it should be delivering 130 amps, but to where and why?
Help
DaveMan
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Originally posted by DAVEMAN
Beastrider insists that there is a specific current from the alternator for each specific RPM and thus at full speed it should be delivering 130 amps, but to where and why?
Beastrider insists that there is a specific current from the alternator for each specific RPM and thus at full speed it should be delivering 130 amps, but to where and why?
All I am saying is that there is a specific _maximum_ current available at a given RPM, not that the alternator always puts out that maximum. The current is computed as I = E / R where E is voltage and R is the resistance of the load at the alternator terminals (we are not talking about the internals of the alternator here).
As I noted above, the strength of the magnetic field in the stator is a function of current flow, and in turn the torque required to turn the alternator is a function of the strength of the magnetic field. Thus, an alternator that has no load on it essentially free wheels with no torque required to turn it (except for internal losses), while an alternator with a heavy load connected to it, drawing maximum amps, will require maximum torque to turn it.
So, the 130 amps doesn't go anywhere... the alternator puts out only what the circuit requires. And that is reflected in the amount of power than must be put into the alternator from the engine.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Re: Alternator Ratings
Originally posted by BeastRider
The alternator on the 2001 S'Crew is rated at 130 amps. Does anyone know at what RPM's this rating is made?
TIA
The alternator on the 2001 S'Crew is rated at 130 amps. Does anyone know at what RPM's this rating is made?
TIA
The answer to your original question is at whatever RPM creates the maximum output of the alternator! I know, no help right?
I respect all your Electrical Engineering knowledge but why would you ask such a simple question like the quote above if you can rattle off alternator design characterisitc like it was coming off of a tape recorder. BTW, what difference does it make to know at what RPM the alternator can produce 130 amps anyhow. What kind of use could you possibly have that would require that you know this critical RPM anyway.
Looks like there isn't a soul on this site, including myself, or anywhere in the US for that matter that could talk more intelligently about alternators anyway so you will always have the last word.
No matter what RPM someone could have answered you with, you would have probably come back and said well that's fine but can you prove it.
If you just want someone to talk to about technical stuff then give me a call and we can talk anytime. We might not always agree but I think we are talking the same stuff, you are just looking at it in a different way. We both understand energy input and output and efficiency, it's just semantics and how you state the facts. I do have an Engineering degree and one of my specialties has always been in the electrical side so it's not necessary to quote Ohm's Law or Kirchoff's Law 'cause I haven't forgot the rules yet. Give me the benefit of the doubt here.
I think this alternator conversation is going nowhere, at least from my perspective. Let's move on to the next topic and maybe we can make more progress 'cause I think we have both wasted enough energy and time on this issue.
Have a wonderful day!
DaveMan
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Re: Re: Alternator Ratings
Originally posted by DAVEMAN
BTW, what difference does it make to know at what RPM the alternator can produce 130 amps anyhow.
BTW, what difference does it make to know at what RPM the alternator can produce 130 amps anyhow.
So, I wanted to know how "optimistic" Ford is with their ratings. From the posts of InfernalCombustion and KYFordFreak, it seems to be roughly the same as my bike... about 70 to 75 mph in overdrive produces max amps. Thus, in town, with extra lights, a high power sound system, A/C running, and maybe a load from a trailer, you might be drawing the battery down at lower RPM's.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Hey Beastrider,
The only recourse you have is to put different pulleys on the alternator to change the RPMs at a lower travel speed. The other way is to add another battery in the truck or get a custom designed alternator that meets the criteria of how your system is setup. If you need more power then you have to rob it from the engine, right?
I promise that I will not post anymore on this issue so it's goodbye for now. Lets please talk about something else. I enjoy your intellect but I'm burnt out on alternator theory.
DaveMan
The only recourse you have is to put different pulleys on the alternator to change the RPMs at a lower travel speed. The other way is to add another battery in the truck or get a custom designed alternator that meets the criteria of how your system is setup. If you need more power then you have to rob it from the engine, right?
I promise that I will not post anymore on this issue so it's goodbye for now. Lets please talk about something else. I enjoy your intellect but I'm burnt out on alternator theory.
DaveMan
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Hey Beastrider,
I really don't want to talk religion or politics and I'm bettin' you got some kind of degree in Chemistry too so I give up in advance on the oil topic.
Hey I know, what about something called a screw that I think someone makes that you can drive. I think Ford makes it but I could be wrong. Do you know anything about that topic, if so then maybe we can bark up that tree for a while?
Also, since you're from Texas maybe you've heard of some place called King Ranch. I think they have something to do with that screw vehicle I mentioned earlier but again, I'm not real sure, what do you think?
Also, let's don't talk grammar either 'cause I'm sure you'll tell me I have way too many commas in my writing or not enough semi-colons.
DaveMan
I really don't want to talk religion or politics and I'm bettin' you got some kind of degree in Chemistry too so I give up in advance on the oil topic.
Hey I know, what about something called a screw that I think someone makes that you can drive. I think Ford makes it but I could be wrong. Do you know anything about that topic, if so then maybe we can bark up that tree for a while?
Also, since you're from Texas maybe you've heard of some place called King Ranch. I think they have something to do with that screw vehicle I mentioned earlier but again, I'm not real sure, what do you think?
Also, let's don't talk grammar either 'cause I'm sure you'll tell me I have way too many commas in my writing or not enough semi-colons.
DaveMan
more alt stuff