Reverse Brake light issue for newbie

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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 12:59 PM
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Reverse Brake light issue for newbie

New to the forum. '07 f150 Lariat. First let me say thanks to SSCULLY for the great diagrams and advice he has posted and general good tech post forum wide. It's nice to find a forum with use full info for the DIY guy.
So here's my deal with a question at the end:

2007 F150 Screw.
My turn signals started fast flashing, my back up lights quit and the brake lights got very dim
>Tested circuits showed 10V at Brake/turn and reversing lamp sockets when activated. Tested 12V + to chassis GRD and showed 10V.
>Remote brake light on cab roof works fine
>Replaced the Flasher relay and the flashers are working
>Replaced the Brake position switch just for fun
>Replaced 20amp F10 fuse-it was blown No change
>Checked F14 and F102 as good - have not checked voltage across

Trailer lights work fine in brake and turn mode - I use the 4 pin connector

When I brake I hear a relay clicking in the CJB but I can't identify which one.

Just noticed this morning that the Mirror is unplugged? Hummm, wonder if previous owner had a problem......

Interestingly the Reverse lights don't work when the trailer is hooked up (it has LED lights) but when I made a temp harness and hooked up 2 35 watt lamps to the turn signal wires on the 4 pin connector the reverse lights come on. Almost sounds like a ground issue.

Next checked the molex connector C3138 under the driver door and found 2 pins corroded from moisture. Cleaned them first and no change. Cut the wires out and made a jumper--Bingo- got lights.

Now the fuel gauge is dead. No doubt in one of the 2 connectors. So the question of today is.........
Is there a pin out diagram fro the connectors ?

Thanks
Tim
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Which 2 connectors are you looking for a pin out of ?

Fuel gauge is the yellow w/ white stripe & Black w/ Orange stripe wires.
Shows as Connector C3137 & a connector that is not marked in cell 25 ( eng controls ) or in cell 60 ( instrument cluster ). The other 2 connectors are at the top of the fuel tank ( wires from the FPDM & fuel level sender ) & at the instrument cluster.

What station do you fuel at ?
- the cheapest or a better brand name ?

The reason I ask, is some trucks have an issue where the fuel gauge does not read correctly on high sulfur content fuel. There is a TSB on replacing it with a newer version that deals with high sulfur content fuel better. TSB 08-2-9.
Bad news is, you either have to drop the tank or pull the bed to replace the fuel sender in the TSB.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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The only connectors I disturbed were the 2 under the driver's door. On your Diagram it shows what appears to be 3 connections C3137 -3138-3139. I only had 2 connectors there. I assumed the fuel gauge sender was routed through there.

I just had the sender and pump replaced less than 2 months ago and ran a fuel treatment. If it's that at least the shop warranties there work.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 07:35 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
OK, the question was not really what is the pin outs for C3137 -3138-3139, but more so the diagram for the fuel level sender.

If you just had it replaced, that would be the starting point, have the shop check that something did not come unplugged.
- also might want to ask if the new revision P/N from the TSB was used ( not a brand X replacement ).

The P/N list I had from 2009 ( might have new revisions with new P/N )
8L3Z-9A213-E Kit - Fuel Sender 2006 starting 12/8/2005 through 2008 - FFV-26 Gal Tank - 126/132 WB
8L3Z-9A213-F Kit - Fuel Sender 2006 starting 12/8/2005 through 2008 - FFV-30 Gal Tank - 139 WB
8L3Z-9A213-G Kit - Fuel Sender 2006 starting 12/8/2005 through 2008 - FFV-27 Gal Tank - 145/151/163 WB
8L3Z-9A213-H Kit - Fuel Sender 2006 starting 12/8/2005 through 2008 - FFV-36 Gal Tank - 145/151/163 WB
 
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 08:13 AM
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I was actually thinking the sender wire went through one of the plugs and might have been damaged causing the gauge not to work. Odd coincident that it would quit right when I made the repair. The 2 damaged pin wires were Blk and Grn w/pink or orange as I recall. The pins are the top 2 on the left looking at the Female side with the lock catch up. I can't post pictures to this forum.

I'll swing by the shop today and check with the part #'s.

Thanks
 
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