Hi people!

I recently bought a 2006 F-150 STX. By mistake I tried to start it with an un-programed PATS key. Now my cylinder lock is stuck and won't turn with the correct key in it.
I think the lock cylinder was damaged somehow.

What I've read is that I need to remove it and replace the lock cylinder. I was able to do that on my previous 1997 F-150 by turning the switch to the "ON" position and then pushing on the retaining pin and it will pop out. Problem is, my switch is stuck.

I there a way to remove it when it won't turn so I can replace the lock cylinder? Or am I better off calling a locksmith?

I think I read here someplace that if you try to start the truck with an un-programed PATS key, the attempt will erase the programing for ALL keys and then you may have to take it to the dealer for re-programing. This does not make much sense to me.
Is this true?

Thanks!

 

No.

 

Is it in the off position or the on position? As far as effecting the pats system, it takes five times in a row with the wrong key then it has to be reset.

 

It's in the off position. I went to my local store, when I came back, I put the key in the ignition, cranked once and when it didn't make a sound I noticed I was using a wrong key. Back to off, removed key, new(correct) key in, and click! Stuck. it's locked. Key will go in and out, but will not turn.
I know I may have damaged the cylinder in that split second that I changed keys. I seem to have a thing for that on almost any vehicle (just ask my family - they say keyless entry was created because of me).
I just wanted to know if I could take out the cylinder myself to take it to a locksmith. I'd rather do that than have him break something on my steering column.
By the way, how can it be reset?

 

The only way to get it out is to have it in the on position without damage. If it's what I think that broke it's a normal issue with these ign. cylinders. Why Ford and Strattec stuck with the Focus style cylinder I'll never know. Lightly tap on the face of the key cylinder with a ball peen hammer (the ball end) then try your key. If it turns on take it out right then and get a new one. If it doesnt work after a couple of trys get a Locksmith. As for the PATS lock out (theft mode) Ford resets that.

 

Hi everybody... I chose to reply to my own thread because it is basically concerning the same issue... 7 years later without any trouble until this weekend... When I tried to start the vehicle, the key cylinder turns/works just fine at the OFF and ACC position but when the key is to the ON and START position, the cluster lights flash slowly and get dim and out, as if power cannot get through to them and then the engine will not turn.

All fuses/relays/cables/grounds/battery/connections were checked by me and a friend during this weekend as far as we could safely do it using a meter, and so far the only thing left is the key ignition switch.

Is there a way to test this switch to zero-in on the specific issue??? I mean the electronic/electric contacts. I believe the key and key cylinder are OK.

If the key switch is OK, I am taking it to the dealer since there is nothing else left to test. I just want to avoid taking it to the dealer as best as I can...

Thanks,

Robert

 

Have you load tested the battery?

 

About a week ago I took the battery to a local shop, they said the voltage is OK (about 12.65 V), but they did not perform any load testing... is there a way to perform a load test at home? Or I should go to a different shop...
Right know I'm stuck at the ignition cylinder and ignition switch... I have not had much free time lately to test them (I was spending quality time with my granddaughter). Fortunately I have another car for these instances... BUT I want to be back driving my truck...!!!!
I will go tomorrow morning to see if I can get a load test and I will post back the results...

Thanks a Million!!!

 

Parts stores (Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, Advance) can load test the battery in the vehicle in the parking lot. If the vehicle isn't running, they can charge it and load test it in the store. This should be a free service.

 

Thank you... definitely my next step...

I have the Factory Service Manual but I cannot find the electrical diagram to test the ignition switch (the plastic one opposite to the key cylinder) for continuity... I also think the ignition key cylinder may be damaged from the first incident about 7 years ago (see the first two posts that I wrote on this thread ) because when I turn the key to any position and press on the metal tip underneath, the cylinder will not come out. It is stuck in there... HARD; but it clicks in all positions, and I want to test the plastic switch to make sure it is OK... Some hope in there...

Thanks again GLC... I'll keep you posted...

 

That procedure is in the EVTM (not the WSM), usually cell/section 149.

 

...ummm...
Pardon my ignorance... I have the Factory Service Manual in a CD, but the index doesn't list any of those specific sections...
Can you explain to me what are those?
Or perhaps those are different manuals?

Thank you...

 

Do you have an original Ford CD or one of those ebay specials? If you have the Ford CD/DVD, look in the "Diagrams" portion, that is the EVTM.

 

I was able to remove the key lock cylinder. Looks like it is damaged, but only on some areas. I also found the diagrams.... mine it's a copy of the Ford CD... unfortunately I can only work in the afternoons and only if it's not raining outside, so this is going to go slow...I'll keep you posted until she's up an running so everyone can benefit from the information...

Thanks...

 

****UPDATE****

I checked connections at the starter, they seem good, I opened the inline plastic thing that is in the engine, coming out of the battery cables, nothing burnt or broken. I removed the airbag, steering wheel, connectors, removed the turn signal switch, tested the plastic ignition switch with a friend's help and found it to be in good working order. I cleaned up a little bit around, found no wires loose or chaffed or cut or way too twisted, put it back together and NO CHANGE except that the key and cylinder are working much smoother than before...
I jiggled a bit all the connectors around the steering wheel and I was able to make all the lights come on in the cluster and got power and started the engine, but when I shifted into reverse it died...
I jiggled some cables and connectors again and after a few minutes managed to get the lights in the cluster to come on and it started again, and for the second time it died when I shifted into reverse...
I never got it to start after jiggling the same place twice, so I believe it was pure coincidence those two times, and when the lights came on, both times I heard sounds from the Central Junction Box, like a bad connection or ground. I checked all fuses/relays a second time and jiggled all the connectors at the junction box and nothing. I thought that it could be the turn signal switch or another combination switch, but hazard lights and turn lights work ok. I believe that power goes from the battery to the junction box first and then to everything else including switches, right???

Then I have two possible issues:
1- the truck dies when I shift into reverse, (I have been unable to start it in Neutral, only in Park) and
2- trouble at the junction box that prevents it from getting power at the switch every time

Could these two issues be related???
I think I read somewhere that these junction boxes may go bad, but that would be the first time for me on these trucks , and I have owned three f-150's in my life, at different times, of course...

Any additional help would be appreciated.

EDIT: I found a LOT of corrosion in the passenger's side floor rail, the one that leads to the CJB, but I never saw any leaks coming from anywhere, and my truck has plastic floors, NO carpets... so I'm going to try tomorrow to remove the Central Junction Box, but again, my repair manuals do not have a section on how to remove it...
Is there anything that I should be aware of before attempting this???

Thanks,

Robert