Hi Folks! I already ask this in 2009-2011 but nobody answer. I'll try my look in this forum.

The right front turn light don't work. When I turn on this, the rear light work properly but faster tan usuall like the front bulb is worn but the front bulb is working.

I check the fuses and all are ok, yes all of them I checked one by one. Any idea?

Does anybody have the electric diagram of that part of the electrical circuit? If someone needs more info, let me know!

I'll appreciate your help.

 

Check the contacts on the bulb/socket. A loose connection will be the same as a burnt bulb.

Also follow the wires for the turn signal and check for chaffing.

 

Jgger is right. If the contact from bulb to socket is poor it will do what you say it's doing. I would take the RF bulb out and make sure the contacts are good and clean. I have replaced thousands of bulbs over the years and had a habit of doing ONE thing before I put the bulbs back in. (I worked in auto body for many years and that's where I learned to do this) I would take each of the bulbs firmly in thumb and fore-finger and "thump" the glass firmly 2-4 times before I installed them. Sometimes a bulb would LOOK good and have a tiny break in the filament, causing it to not light or cause a problem like you described. IF the filament was weak it will cause it to break. IF it is not weak, you DO NOT have to worry about breaking a good filament by "thumping" it. Before I learned to do that it was not uncommon to have a car come back a week or two later with a burned out bulb. That ended the "burned out bulb" comebacks.
(we're talking about "existing" bulbs, not new bulbs)

 

JGGER & CODE58 Thanks for your help, as these problem was checked some 5 months ago, I really don't remember if revised the socket. I interchange the Left & Right Bulbs only to doble check and no the problem is not the bulb.

I'll check this weekend the socket. Thank again for your replies.

 

JGGER & CODE58 I just checked the connector, and bulb again. those are ok. I'm sure. Now I check for voltahe in the wires. Betwen ground and the flasher wire I don;t have any signal. I even insert the multimeter test probe across the insulated wire to make contact direct to the copper lines and no no voltage.

I need to pinpoint that wire to fuseblock If anybody want to share where is the other extreme of the wire located I'll appreciate. The wire is the yellow with violet strip




Thanks for your help.

 

Art,
When you used ground was it chassis ground or the black ground wire in the plug? When you said in the OP that the front bulb was working, did you mean the front parking like element on that bulb or the turn signal element was lit but not flashing? What I'm getting at is the ground a KNOWN good ground?
I normally prefer to use a Power Probe as well as an Amp Clamp if possible. (Less invasive because the AC will pick up power signal if the bundle isn't too thick and the PP will check as well as introduce ground.) I also use a short and open circuit finder if needed (difficult to locate)

 

Not sure if this will help you solve. Was just reading elsewhere, and they were saying tilt your wheel up and check to see if working. If so, wire's are loose or something at switch in steering column. One guy said he superglued wire's back into switch (not sure i would do this), another tied off with plastic zip tie. Was checking on this, a buddy with health issue's has this problem on 2001 f150 front left blinker not working. Gonna try to help him fix and get state inspection. Good luck !!!

 

Hi CODE58!
I use the black wire as a ground. The bulb do not lit. Yes the inductive test probes are usefull in some applications I don;t have one handy when I perform the test. Thanks!

 

Art,
Your truck is pretty new so I'm not suspicioning that this is the problem, but 1st. thing you have to determine is that the black wire (grnd.) IS in fact a GOOD ground. Just use a test light between the Positive battery post and the ground wire (blk.) in the plug you pictured. GOOD ground is the FIRST thing I always check when troubleshooting electrical problems. If it is, go on from there.

 

Hi CODE58! Yes I tested the black wirer for a good ground

 

I wish I could loan you the "short and open circuit tester" but there are a few too many miles between us. It is a lifesaver at times. It may be something simple but I have seen corroded and sometimes broken wires in a loom with absolutely no evidence at all in the insulation. I never have figured out how that happens and especially fairly new cars (2-3 years old) with a broken wire inside of perfect insulation. How did it work for that long with only physical contact? I have no idea. (these are not collision vehicles)
My '04 is different than your '10 (wiring) but I'm sure it goes through the fuse box (I assume it's still in the right kick panel area) so you may try following it back from the light plug with a test light. I soldered a very sharp large sewing needle to the test light probe so that it made a very small hole when I had to probe a wire. I don't like probing wires, that's why I used the amp clamp to test for juice whenever I could. The wire may change color when it goes from the turn signal to where it goes out of the fuse box. They often do.

 

Hi CODE58! I gladdy accept as a loan just the brand and model of your tester. Maybe I can get one here.

I'm looking at the fuse box for a yellow with violet strip wire but it looks confussing the violet strip with brown and other colors I can't find the yellow/violet wire. I even look for the flashing fuse but I don't find it! I check the owners manual and the supposed flashing fuse is not the actual flashing bulb. As an electric enginner it's very frustrated not to find the problem yet.

Thanks for your help.

 

Art, I believe the tester is a GLC. It's a 2 part system, a transmitter and a reciever and I think it ran me about $150.-$175. for the system in the case. I doubt that it'd be worth that just to find the fault because it'd probably be the only time you'd use it. I bought it online from a professional tool place. My '04 manual shows #2 fuse (20A) for the "Stop/Turn lamps, Speed control deactivate switch. That's the only fuse that has to do with turn signals. There are 2 fuses for R & L trailer tow turn/stop but that shouldn't have anything to do with your situation. I'm almost positive they changed the fuse box layout in about '07 (and maybe again since then) but if you have your manual it should show a fuse for the same thing I show on #2 on my '04, just maybe a different position. You may have to pull the fuse box loose from the post because all the wires come in from the back side. i've done it once or twice on mine to identify wires. I'll check mine tomorrow to see if that fuse controls the flashers.

 

Art,
I did check the #2 fuse on my '04 today and it is indeed the turn signal fuse (as well as the cruise control deactivate).I didn't pull the fuse block back because I'm pretty sure your '10 is different anyway so a good chance the colors (as well as fuse #'s) wouldn't match up anyway. You should still check that fuse in your box and figure why you say it isn't the fuse for the flashers. May not be # 2 in your box but still should be one for the flashers.

 

Art,
I know you don't likely need this information but I checked the circuit fault detector and it's a GTC (General Technologies Corporation). I hope by now you've found some resolve to your problem.