Power window problems

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Old May 12, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Benton Vosburg's Avatar
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Power window problems

I've a 2007 F150 STX, extended cab 4wd.

It's bare bones, but it does have power windows, the windows went down partially but now will not move either directions. I've browsed through other power window problems on this board but none of them seemed to address my issue.

I've checked the owners manual, the only thing listed in it for power windows is a 30a circuit breaker, when I opened the fuse box under the dash it was missing. But the windows had been working fine for about a month and a half, I've not opened the fuse box before then.

Is the 30a circuit breaker required or is is there another fuse not listed in my owners manual that leads to the windows? I've check all the fuses thus far. I've not replaced any relays yet but I can't seem to find out which one, if any, actually are linked to the windows.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 06:02 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Were the Power Windows added after the fact ( i.e. not factory ) ?

Both the regular cab & SuperCab / SuperCrew use the same 30A in position 401 for the power windows, after the accessory delay relay ( what allows the windows & radio to operate until the doors are opened or the time runs out ).
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Were the Power Windows added after the fact ( i.e. not factory ) ?

Both the regular cab & SuperCab / SuperCrew use the same 30A in position 401 for the power windows, after the accessory delay relay ( what allows the windows & radio to operate until the doors are opened or the time runs out ).

I have no idea, I bought the truck a month and a half ago. Where the window cranks would be there are circular covers, but the window buttons don't appear to be added after the fact. They are on small consoles, two button on the drivers side and a single one on the passengers side.

How would I be able to tell?

What confuses the hell out of me is why they worked for over a month and then all of a sudden stopped. Doing a bit of investigation I did find some wires in the front of the door jamb that were not in the protective boot leading from the body to the door. They may have been added at a later date but I'm not sure.

Could it be an exposed wire somewhere? I'd like to rule out as much as possible before I remove the door panels and start using a test light on any wires leading to the power windows.
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Rereading your post, I haven't noticed the accessory power delay, the radio shuts off and the lights shut off when I turn of the ignition, they do not stay on until the door is opened. Is it just the 30a circuit breaker that's missing? I don't quite understand why the windows have worked until now if that was the case.
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Are you the 1st owner of the truck ?

The accessory delay relay would have been installed at the factory ( along with the wiring for it ).
The 30A is just for the power windows, the radio is a different fuse.
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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I am not, it's a 2007 that had 88k on it when I purchased it almost 2 months ago. If the power windows were installed after the fact(ory), would the 30a circuit breaker still be used, if they were installed at a later date I'm worried someone may have tried to bypass the circuit breaker. This leads to all sorts of other unknowns for me as I don't know how they wired it in. It appears that the tow package light assembly is aftermarket as well, the wires are zip tied to the frame instead of some other form of mounting I would expect from the factory.

I have not seen any accessory delay since I've had it which would lead me to think the the circuit breaker in slot 401 hasn't been installed since before I bought it.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
I would think there is an inline fuse holder for the windows somewhere

If you do not have an additional wire to the + VDC side of the battery, could be under the dash somewhere.

Sorry it is a crap answer, but time to start playing trace the harness ( after checking the battery post for an additional wire ).
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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Definitely aftermarket if there are small round covers where the cranks were. Factory would never do that. Just look around for wires that connect to a power source that doesn't look original. You're not likely to find power source to the window motors inside the doors. Power would only likely be supplied when the switch is pressed. Pop the switch out of the "console" to see if there is power there (probably not, likely the key would have to be on), there should be.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by code58
Definitely aftermarket if there are small round covers where the cranks were. Factory would never do that. Just look around for wires that connect to a power source that doesn't look original. You're not likely to find power source to the window motors inside the doors. Power would only likely be supplied when the switch is pressed. Pop the switch out of the "console" to see if there is power there (probably not, likely the key would have to be on), there should be.
I'll take a look this afternoon. Thanks for the information from both of you. If I am able to locate the power wire do you suppose there would be an in line fuse that needed replacing?

Also, does this mean that the 30a circuit breaker in slot 401 is not needed?

Off to break out the test light.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Either there is an inline fuse, or the wire melted. I am going to take a SWAG that it is the inline fuse case.

The 30A in the fuse panel is for the factory power windows, and I would guess the wiring in the back of the fuse panel is not installed, if it came from the factory with manual windows.

Getting harder to ID aftermarket power window kits ( for the previous owner being in the OCD category ).
I have seen a few members here change out the door panels, and use the factory switches in a conversion.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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It is indeed an aftermarket system. I pulled a window switch on either side and can see where they cut through the door panel to install the wires.

There are a total of 4 cables attached to the positive power terminal in the battery, one of course is the actual power cable, another is black with a red stripe that goes to the alternator, third is a flat terminal and wire that disappears behind my battery. Fourth is a red cable with an in line fuse right of the terminal.

I've inspected/tested this fuse and it is working fine. Could the other larger cable that disappears behind the battery box be the cables for the power windows?

The switches for the power window have five wires soldered to the back, 2 black, 2 blue, and one red. In this order Black, Blue, Red, Blue, Black. I pulled out my test light but it's a cheap piece of crap, when I tested the inline fuse under the hood it lit up for one second then didn't work anymore, I'll need to go pick up a higher quality one tomorrow afternoon.

Then I guess I'll just start testing the wires on the back of the switches for the power windows.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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Thanks for all the input, I've figured it out.

I started following the aftermarket wiring and testing things. There was an in line fuse under the dash on the drivers side. It appears whomever installed this had also wired in power for an aftermarket stereo as well as an alarm system.

All is well and now I know more about what was installed in my truck.

Thanks
 
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