Window Motor

Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
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Window Motor

Not sure if this is the right section but.....


Once in a while, sometimes worse then others...I notice that when I press up on my driver side window...it is unresponsive, will go up a little and then stop...or works like normal. I am afraid one time it will not go up at all, lol... Just wondering if there is any KNOWN issues with these windows....or any ideas otherwise.

2007 F150 XLT SCrew 4wd
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:40 AM
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My 98 had the same problem. I replaced the motor and regulator (the regulator only cost $1 more then just the motor so I said why not). Completely fixed the problem and now that window is better then the other one.

This is not a particularly hard project but does take time. Remember you need a punch and drill to get the old rivets out and bolts or new rivets for installation (I used bolts so it would be easy to remove- only one hole wouldn't except a bolt so I just left it. been fine for over a year- but this year when I do my annual greasing job I plan to rivet it)

Also remember to coat the new product with white grease. this is also a good time to grease everything else like the door lock motor, etc. Also with wire contact cleaner clean up the connections.

Hope I have been of some assistance to you. There is probably a video on youtube on how to do it for your specific truck.

Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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Also- there will be a time when it does not go up at all- happened to my when I got to work then it started raining- I was lucky enough to push it up by hand. but thats not always the case.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:00 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
On the '04 + MY is it a known problem that the switch contacts get carbon build up on them.

Thread in the technical articles section

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ow-switch.html
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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thanks all. I am def gonna try the switch first...i mean looks like the easiest thing....always good idea to start there. Take a crack at it saturday before it wont go up. Weird part is, somedays it works like a champ.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
That sounds like it. My '06 has done the same thing a few times already.

Have the rear passenger side starting to do it now, cleaned it up the other day, but the contacts do not look long for this world.

Be sure to go easy with cleaning it, the metal coating is thin, so if you attack it with an emery cloth, you might remove it from the plastic base.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 01:13 AM
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Its fine to clean but you'll be happier if you were to replace it. You will have the same problem 2 months down the road after cleaning it. Has happened to me
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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IF it is the regulator and NOT the switch, they are easy to replace, I just done it on mine.

Order it from advance auto, put the discount code VISA in and get if for $59.99 instead of 89.99
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:09 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
From Tasca ( Ford dealer that sells parts online and sponsor here @ 150online )

5L1Z-14529-AA
MSRP : $91.68
core : $0.00
Online Price : $60.51

The above is the Ford switch.

Forgot to add this.
 

Last edited by SSCULLY; Apr 13, 2012 at 08:12 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sampson01
Its fine to clean but you'll be happier if you were to replace it. You will have the same problem 2 months down the road after cleaning it. Has happened to me
This- more often that not its better just to replace it- might not save you money but will save you time- whats more important to you. Still clean all the old parts and connectors when you replace though.

When mine was going I Cleaned and lubed almost everything- got me another 3 months but dang was it slow to go up and down.
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Not trying to hijack your thread, but, I just posted today with a similar issue. I have good power going to both switches, but motor wouldn't budge. I replaced it with a remanufactured and it worked for ten minutes. Repeated the process, with same exact outcome. Could I be burning up motors because of a bad relay or fuse? If so, how do I fix the issue?
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Nothing wrong with bringing up an existing thread, one thing to watch is this thread is about the new body style F150.

If you are trashing motors I would almost think something mechanical is binding up the track, and the motor is working too hard to move it.

When you removed the motor, did you dill out the steel on the door panel, and pull the motor out through the speaker opening ?

My old 2001 had an issue with the motor on the driver's side that stopped working. I drilled out the steel door panel ( behind the door trim panel ) and pulled it, hitting it against the rear tire and it worked for ~ 30 days. Dad finally went to napa after another door trim panel removal and hit against the tire.

Here is a thread on removing the power window motor.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...dow-motor.html

If you pulled the whole unit out, it might not be in the same when you put it back in. Drilling and unbolting the motor leaves everything in place.
 

Last edited by SSCULLY; May 1, 2012 at 01:23 PM.
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Old May 1, 2012 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Nothing wrong with bringing up an existing thread, one thing to watch is this thread is about the new body style F150.

If you are trashing motors I would almost think something mechanical is binding up the track, and the motor is working too hard to move it.

When you removed the motor, did you dill out the steel on the door panel, and pull the motor out through the speaker opening ?

My old 2001 had an issue with the motor on the driver's side that stopped working. I drilled out the steel door panel ( behind the door trim panel ) and pulled it, hitting it against the rear tire and it worked for ~ 30 days. Dad finally went to napa after another door trim panel removal and hit against the tire.

Here is a thread on removing the power window motor.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...dow-motor.html

If you pulled the whole unit out, it might not be in the same when you put it back in. Drilling and unbolting the motor leaves everything in place.
I drilled out the rivets and pulled the entire assembly (regulator and all) out through rear hole next to the door opening lever.

Would something as small as not having enough grease on the regulator track cause enough binding to burn up the motor? The reason why I ask this is because after I installed the new motors, they slowed down considerably once reaching the down position.
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Binding pivot point or the track installed trapezoid would have an impact on the motor life and travel.

Sorry, best I can offer it to take it out and check the pivot points, and try to reinstall it.
 
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