HELP! 1983 F-150 electrical problem?

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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 01:12 AM
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HELP! 1983 F-150 electrical problem?

So I just got this truck, it is beat. I don't expect it to last long, I'm sure fixing all the things it needs is a waste of money.

Anyway the truck is finicky. After running for a bit, it starts to spit and sputter under load. Seems if it sits it wont do it for a while. But What I noticed was when the lights are on its worse. Putting the pedal to the floor in park with the lights on makes it sputter and pop. lights off revs like a champ(maybe a little groggy, but I'm sure the plugs/wires are old)

I was thinking the alternator was not putting enough juice out. I have not yet put a volt meter to anything yet, but figured it was just as easy as the alt.

Second thing the alternator on it is a GM alternator. Noticed all the washers to make it mount right. Any reason for not using the right alt? The a/c is not hooked up, no belt to it, pump is seized. Like I said I don't need this truck to last long, but I have a few errands to run with it (tow a couple of small vw's around).

Thanks for any help!


Here it is..
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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So I replaced the alternator, and it helped, thats for sure. But It still sputters if there is too much electrical load on the motor. For instance rolling the window all the way up and hitting the switch up, makes the truck sputter when driving down the road. As well as putting the heat on.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 09:16 PM
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it may be something as simple as a resistor. Ive always liked that body style and the one before it.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 12:48 AM
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its everything/anything that causes it to sputter. Maybe lack of power to the coil? Bad grounds? Timing is off.. Noticed that removing the vaccume line from the vaccume advance distributer, makes it idle lower. It seems to idle high, not sure exactly, the tach does not work.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Verify the grounds for the body, engine, chassis, dash.

Verify that the vacuum hoses are connected.

Tell us what engine and carb. If you have an electronicly controlled carb, you have to have the sensors and vacuum lines connected. The computer controls the timing, and if it does not get the right inputs, it will go nuts.

Also, if available, swap the Duraspark module. If no change, maybe swap the pickup coil in the dist. My 82 Bronco had that fail hot, but it would go off like a light switch.
 
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