A few weeks ago the gauges in my 2001 F150 started sweeping. I checked a few threads and found the most common problem was the battery/alternator. I have 12.7V with engine off and 14.6V with engine on, so I do not think it is a electrical issue. I read some other posts that said the root cause was the instrument cluster not retaining its last calibration so it sweeps each time it starts. If the electrical system is good the other posts said it could be a problem with the computer or the instrument cluster itself.

I had a few intermittent problems starting lately. I think it is not getting fuel. I changed the fuel filter, no help. I am considering changing the fuel pump but I am wondering if this could be an electrical issue related to the sweeping gauges. I am suspecting the electrical problem/computer problems because when it won’t start some other strange stuff happens. Doors locking, headlights flashing, etc. while it is cranking. Also the problem seems to be intermittent. For example it would not start tonight when I was at work. I had my wife pick me up, then I dropped her off at home and head back in her car. When I got back to the truck it started up like nothing was wrong.

Not sure if the two problems are related or independent. Don't want to waste time and money changing the fuel pump if it could be something else. Help!

 

If the battery tests good, you might want to check the battery cables.

Could be a corroded cable right at the battery clamp. Looks normal, but when you move it, it falls apart.

Check both cables both ends.

 

Thanks for replying to my post Scully. I am still amazed at how many people are willing to take their time to read and try to help out other Ford owners. What a great site!

Let me follow up by saying that I am not a expert mechanic, but my truck has never been to the shop. I do all the work myself, but I am no expert. If it is not in my Haines or Chilton book I turn to the web. So thanks.

I checked my battery cables. I saw a small amount of corrosion on the battery posts at the very bottom, but it was pretty small. I wire brushed them off, and then followed them back. It looks like one set goes to a solenoid for the starter. This also had some green corrosion on it but very small. Once I disconnected the leads, I could see the bare metal was making good contact. I also do not think this could be a part of my problem because even when it did not start, it would turn over strong. The other side went to a solenoid looking object on the firewall. I am guessing that this is my voltage regulator because another set of pigtails goes to the alternator. Everything was clean here (one stud had a thread protector on it and when I removed it I was surprised how pristine the brass threads were). I checked all of the lead to the alternator (especially since I had replaced it about 1.5 years ago). Everything was clean and tight. There is one red cable that goes through the firewall from the voltage regulator, not sure what this is for or if it can be causing my problems. I did not check the final termination of this last lead.

I listened carefully when I am having my starting problems (turns strong but won’t start). I DO NOT hear the fuel pump kick on. SO, I am not sure if it is the pump or the same electrical issue that is causing the gauge sweep. Another funny note, when I turn the key to on while experiencing this issue (just on, not cranking) I not only can't hear the fuel pump, but I heard a thunk under the hood. I asked my wife to come and turn the key to on while I listened closer under the hood and traced the sound back to what I guess is the ABS computer (small black electrical box with a bunch of tubing coming out of it), sorta under the air cleaner. Not sure if this is normal and I never heard it before, or if it out of the ordinary. I may have only noticed this time because I was listning for the fuel pump.

Is there an easy way to check if my pump is getting a good voltage? Can I trace out the fuel fuse/relay in the engine compartment and check it there or should I disconnect the wires from pump?
What voltage should I see at the pump when I turn the key to the on position? Even when it would be working correctly, the pumps should not stay on, it just pressures up the system then turns off until the car is cranked, is that right?

Once again, I am not sure if the two problems (gauge sweep and Fuel pump) are related or independent. The problem is intermittent. Some time it starts fine, other times it won't. When it won't start I let it sit for an hour or two and come back and most of the times it will start.

Sorry about the long rambling post....Thanks for any insight. I would rather not drop my fuel tank and change the pump unless I am sure it is not an electrical issue. (I have been topping off $5 at a time to make sure my tanks is always near empty).

Thanks again!

 

Here is the thread from my no start on my 2001 some time ago.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...e-my-cure.html

The issue was the fuel pump relay, the thread describes the process to jumper it.

If you cycle the key enough times without starting the motor, the fuel pump will not cycle any more. I seem to recall it is 3 cycles without starting, so this could be the cause of the fuel pump not running, but jumpering will confirm the fuel pump itself ( jumpering by passes external control of the fuel pump )

 

Thanks again Scully that link is useful.

During my searches of the various sites on the internet, I found about 30 posts with similar problems to mine and about 5 experienced the same exact problem (intermittent starting problems after the car had been running, wait an hour or two and it will start up). Unfortunately, none of the five that had my problem ever wrote back to say what they found. I thought I would write in to share my findings.

Gauge Sweep Problem:
I did not believe the masses that informed me that the battery was the problem. After all, the battery had almost 13 volts when it was off and over 14 when running. However, since I was going to AutoZone anyway, I dragged in my battery for testing. The battery failed on low amps. It was tested with a small handheld device that did not give an exact reading, just a Pass/Fail. I replaced the battery and turned the key to see if the gauges stopped sweeping. The first turn the gauges swept again, as expected for the calibration. I thought on the next turn the gauges would not sweep, but they did. I was disappointed and went back in the house. When I came back out and started it back up to go to the store the gauges did not sweep. I guess the quick on/off's I did at first did not give the computer enough time to store the calibration. Problem solved. I guess when the majority of the posts suggest a bad battery I should have it checked.

Intermittent starting issues:
I had hoped that the low battery had caused the starting issues too, but no such luck. On the second start-up after the battery swap the no start issue acted up again. I checked most of the cheap stuff spelled out in Sculls post (cam position sensor wires, IAC wires, Replaced relay 301, etc.). All were unsuccessful. My gut was still telling me to change the fuel pump, so I bit the bullet and opened my wallet and (after the moths flew away) I purchased a new fuel pump. It has been a few days since I changed the pump and I have not had an issue since. Still keeping my fingers crossed.

Some helpful tips for people looking to change their fuel pumps....

1) You do not need to pull the bed. There is enough slack in all the hoses and wires to lower the tank and remove them. I used a floor jack and a piece of 3/4" plywood which I cut to the width between the fuel tank straps. You can lower the tank about 5-6 inches before anything started to get tight. I would then remove the tight lines and continue lowering.
2) Purchase some rubber hose prior to starting the job (I think it was 3/8") I had some lying around so it was not a big deal. There are three small diameter rubber hoses, two of mine ripped at the barb on the tank before they were removed.