Hi Guys and Gals
I have a 2003 Expedition, EB, 4X4, 5.4L engine with advance trac.
I just bought this car a week or so ago. I already have an issue with this car and I hope someone can offer a solution or point me in the right direction.

I live in California, and as you may know cars out here must pass a rigorous emissions test. The car was taken to a smog inspection station for a pre-test to determine whether it would pass or not. IT FAILED!!!!!!

Here is where I am confused! The car passed all of the emissions part of the test with flying colors. All gases and emissions are well within range, and the visual inspection passed as well, but it still failed.

On the inspection report itself, it states the reason for failure, here is what it says.
"THIS VEHICLE FAILED THE MIL/CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DUE TO FAILURE TO SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE ALL OBD SELF TEST"

There are NO warning lights or check engine light displaying anywhere on the cluster and it runs beautifully. Perhaps everyone can see why I am confused!

Can anyone give me any suggestions???????? Sure could use some insight!

Thanks all.

 

You've only had it for a week?

I'm wondering if the dealer you bought from didn't replace the battery or disconnect the battery......doing these two things leads to a p1000 self test code and the vehicle must be drive cycled for it to go away....it may take 100-200 miles of driving....there could also be something wrong with the evap system.....but try driving it away first....

 

do you have a gauge sweep issue when you start the truck ? ( gauges sweep all the way right, then left then back to normal ) ?

If so, the battery is on the way out, and the P1000 is being reset each time you shut the truck off. Have the battery checked.

If not, seems like it could be not having a drive cycle completed for some reason.

Use the DTM to make sure the bulb is working
https://www.f150online.com/forums/3665064-post3.html

If the specs are met ( temp, fuel level, etc ) the P1000 should be gone in 2 drive cycles.

Here is the best drive cycle I have seen. I am taking a shot that #1 has been done.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

Pay attention to the temp & altitude requirements.

 

Thank you 88 and SSCULLY for your replies and your time. It is much appreciated!

I have NOT noticed and don't believe that it is doing the gauge sweep that you have described.

THE BATTERY: I have reason to suspect the battery based on info. from the previous owner. They mentioned that it had a new battery but they had to put the charger on it every 3 to 4 days as they did not use the car that much. On Sunday afternoon 7/31/11 I removed both cables from the battery and are still disconnected ( approx. 40 hours).
The battery has settled in at 12.5V and has not varied as of about 10 minutes ago. I plan to have it load tested sometime today just to make sure.

While the cables have been off of the battery I hooked up a battery charger to the cables in an effort to keep all of the electronics alive. I have the charger set at 2 amps .
DID I DO THE RIGHT THING HERE OR AM I SCREWING SOMETHING ELSE UP????????????
Also what happens if there is no juice at all to the electronics?

THE DTM: If all the lights are working (it seems that they are) is it necessary to do the DTM? Not sure I would know how to do this!

DRIVE CYCLE: I believe that I can perform the drive cycle and meet all the requirements mentioned in the drive cycle link.
Must the drive cycle be performed in the exact order listed in the link or can they be done in any order as long as they get done??

I plan to get an OBDII reader. Anyone have suggestions as to the best one to buy in a reasonable price range?

Again thank you so much for your guidance. Really appreciated!!!!

 

If the battery is at 12.5 V disconnected, what did it start at ?
This is the only way to know if the pass-fail home DIY test shows anything.

No need to have a charger hoked to the truck, it is not going to hurt anything to have the battery out of it. You need to do a drive cycle anyway, so the only thing you might be lost on are the radio presets.
- Also don't know how stable the output is from the charge, no need in chancing it.

If you are sure the MIL / DTC light is operational, then no. If you are not 100% sure, the URL above has the directions on performing the Dealer Test Mode ( DTM ).

The drive cycle that is the order I have always done it. I have never tried to do the section tests out of order.

The ODB-II code reader, there are a ton of them, that range from simple read only to ones that are software loaded on a laptop, that have manufacture specific codes, as well as the ability to log parameters.

Depends on what you want it to do, and for what MY range ( change from ODB-II to CAN ).

 

SS, Thank you again
The readings for the battery was 12.45V with the cables on and 12.63V after cables were removed. The next time I checked it ( approx. 6 hours) it was 12.5V and has remained at exactly 12.5V to present.

If the "check engine soon" light is the same as the MIL/DTC then I am sure that the bulb is working and comes on every time.

The DTM: I will start studying the procedure. Do I have to enter any values or just check to see what it says and then compare it to the link you provided?


DRIVE CYCLE: While performing the drive cycle does a scanner or reader of some kind have to be connected to the computer port inside the car?

I'll start shopping for a scanner soon.

Thanks SS

 

MIL / DTC is the same ( at least what I am using it for ) as the CEL.

The DTM, you would use to the Bulb check, so it will illuminate all the bulbs.
This is only if you are not sure about the light working on the cluster.

Nothing to hook up, the drive cycle is just to get the self tests passed, so the P1000 indicator goes out.

 

SSCULLY
10/4 on the light. I feel confident that the lights are working.

I just had a mechanic friend over and he has a scanner. We hooked it up and sure enough it was showing p1000. Only 3 of the 8 tests had completed themselves.

Tomorrow will be drive cycle day for me and my co-pilot. My friend told me to do the drive cycle and if the CEL does not come on that I should then go on to the smog inspection station and get it passed since the emissions are already good based on the pre-test.

SS, I can't tell you how much I appreciate all of the information you have passed on to me, thank you.

Will get back to with the results soon.

Thanks Dale

 

Hi All
Just updating to the previous posts.

Yesterday I purchased and new scanner that reads all of the codes etc.

I followed all of the instructions provided by SSCULLY AND 88. I performed the drive cycle to the best of my ability and after hooking up the scanner to the car I found that all of the monitors had executed except one.

The monitor that did NOT execute is the EVAP monitor. Below are the instructions for executing the EVAP monitor.

EVAP 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))

Perhaps it did not execute because I am unfamiliar with some of the terms contained in the instructions and did not perform the test correctly. I have been searching for their meaning but have not yet found them.
1. TP MODE should =PT
2. EVAPDC must be >75%
3. FLI must be between 15 and 85% (just found fuel level indicator)???

The scanner also showed a DTC P0442 (small leak in EVAP system).

Where do I go from here? Do I repeat the EVAP test again, do the EVAP bypass procedure, have the EVAP system checked for leaks, or???

Looking forward to your great advice and help!

Thanks again