I am aware that the back Cab light bulb is replaceable, I am aware that the water would be a factor. Unfortunately, the carpet is dry, and the metal shows no signs of getting wet. even though this happens mostly during or shortly after rain storms. It seems more like a power supply issue than a ground issue, and last night it happened on the freeway, twice.

 

Jo: I believe my 2004 F150 FX4 has the same or similar issue.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...lows-warm.html

Main difference between your truck's symtoms and mine is that mine is now constant, not intermittent anymore.

Have you checked the wiring channels, particularly the passenger-side wiring chanel, for water? I ask because my 3rd brake light was also leaking and water was accumulating in the passenger-side wiring channel.

Not sure if the leak and the instrument cluster issues are related, but it would be a good data point to know if yours is also leaking.

Matt

 

Do you realize I was talking about your comment about the ODOMETER back light not working, NOT the back cab light???

 

Delete, double post

 

I did not know that it was replaceable, thanks for that. I still have no idea what route to go at this point. I have checked the wiring channels, and they have always been dry, even though the problem seems to come out when it rains, or if it is humid. It also is strange that I can tap the dash and have the gauges/ radio/ ac/ windows work again. All I can figure is that something is bad in the Gauge cluster. I called the Dealer today and can pick a new one up for $338.00. Is it the answer, can anyone else help here?

Could an over charging alternator be at fault? I'll have to see, I'll go see if I can get it to do it!

 

Sorry for all the long posts. I don't even know if anyone is willing to help me anymore, or if this problem is really that bad. I started my truck in the attempt to recreate the gauges stopping. If the truck is running, all I have to do to make them quit is to "Drum" my fingers across the dash over the gauges.
I ran the test mode and got the following codes. From the beginning they read:
4L34 10849
0001
007920
IGN-B
R0405
NVM 01
DATE 8C48
CONFIG1 A6
CONFIG2 C2
CONFIG3 00
CONFIG4 00
CONFIG5 00
DTC D950
DTCD900
DTC E013
DTC 9318
SPEEDE .0
SPEEDM .0
TACH 642
FA/D 74
FUELP 48 (YEP ALMOST OUT OF GAS)
FINIT 04
CTEMP 87
ODOCAN 000
OIL 000
BRAKE 118
VOLTS 14.0
DIM 000
PRNDL 40
PARK 0
DOOR 0
SEATBLT G
PD 0000
PA 03
PB 08
PE 00
PH D7
PJ 07
PK 32
PL 00
PM 13
PP 20
PS E5
PT 29
PU 00
PV 00
PW 00
PCAN 13
PAD0FF
PAD1 FF
AD00-00
AD01-00
AD02-00
AD30-FF
AD04-00
AD05-00
AD06-00
AD07-00
AD08-53
AD09-00
AD10-35
AD11-00
AD12-47
AD13-B3
AD14-00
AD15-00

If anyone could help I would be super happy. All I want is to get this issue fixed, and be done with it. Thanks in advance. I can even send you some crappy Utah beer if you have the winning idea!

 

JoJo, I believe those codes are for the most part only of any value to the dealer, not to the owner.
When the guages (or other systems) are acting up, can you "flat hand slap" the top of the dash on the R. side above the cluster and get them (or systems that are affected) to return to normal ?
I SEEM to have fixed mine after several attempts because I haven't had any reoccurrence for the last 4 months or so, but what I went through is too involved to post.

 

DTC 9318 is a low battery voltage

Regarding the D codes, what you did is get a code from the instrument cluster- it is not necessarlly a code, but information on certain settings from part # to serial # to ammout of memory to final build and test date of the cluster. I think the D codes are cluster related.

If you had high or low voltage you would have at the very minimum tripped the ABS module DTC which you didn't. My guess power to the IP or the IP itself is not healthy. Your voltage reading of 14.0v is exactly where I would expect to see it so I believe the charging system is good, at least from the supplied data.

 

Code, I can slap the dash, or push the ODO reset button to make the gauges come back to life. Some times they act flat out dead with no lights or chimes, and sometimes the lights light up like the key is on but the truck isn't started. Sometimes the only reason that I know it has happened is the ODO is set to the trip counter, and most of the time the trip counter gets reset to 0, as well as sometimes the door locks lock, as if I was putting it in drive for the first time of the trip. Can you give me a hint of what it involved? Is it something like the intermittent ODO fix? I know it may be surprising to some of you out there, but i'm really quite smart, and have the ability and knowledge (maybe i'm just not afraid to break something that is already broken) to make the repair once I know what the issue is. also with the battery issue, should I have it tested again? Is there anyway for me to test it at home?

 

ok, I tore the dash apart again. I was messing with the plugs on the gauge cluster and have come to the conclusion that it is more than likely the cluster itself. To have the gauges stop working the plug on the left side needs to be un plugged, but to have the radio, windows, A/c etc not work the right side needs to be unplugged. If I unplug the right side the gauges just stop working, as if there isn't any power to the cluster, where as if I unplug the left, the warning chime goes off, and all of the warning lights go on (Check engine, battery, brake, 4 high and 4 low blink.) and the gauges drop off to the left. When i unplug the right, the gauges just lose power and don't move from where they were.

 

Jo: there are several people here trying to help. My 2004 F150 FX4 has the same or very similar issues. The thread I started is here: https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...lows-warm.html

code58 has been especially helpful so much thanks to him.

I just recently got my instrument cluster back from a repair/overhaul instrument shop. They said the cluster tested fine on their bench test, but that the bench test doesn't fully exercise the entire cluster - mostly just puts the gauges through a startup routine - so it could still be the cluster's circuit board or the Motorola chip on the PCB.

Now I'm debating whether to buy and try a new cluster or just take it to the dealer . . .

Will keep posting with news. Please do the same.

Matt

 

if yours has driven you nuts as much as mine has me then i am sure you have read about 5,000 pages of write ups on several boards. If you Refer to Intermittent odometer, you will see maybe some similarities. The gauges not working comes from one plug, and the ac, radio, windows are all the other. I have a cracked solder joint on my board, a mechanic friend found it after I missed it, and he wanted to solder it, and as he is better at it than I am, I am letting him. I'll reinstall my gauges tomorrow night, and i'll let everyone know the outcome. I am keeping my fingers crossed. I wish I knew someone who would let me take theirs out and test if it is the cluster or not.

 

Can you post a pic of the cracked solder joint.

 

I will take pictures of where it was, It will be fixed before I see it again. My friend who ended up finding it actually put some force on the wires coming through the board, that's how he found it. It is one of the larger ones on the top row, just about in the center. it actually vibrates if you run your finger over it pulling it up with some force. if it truly does fix it I will do a full write up on it. I hope it does.

 

so It is re installed, the gauges don't shut off randomly anymore, as of yet anyway. But my Odometer doesn't work anymore either! So, Back to the drawing board.