2000 F150 keyless entry module
#16
#17
I can say with 95% certainty that none of the wiring will be in the truck for the factory RKE on the 2000.
You would be doing a lot of wiring and mounting of the relays if you got a RAP ( up to NOV-2000 build date ).
If you got a CSM, it would be a bit easier, as there are no relays to mount ( the PDL go direct to the CSM ), this would be build dates after NOV-2000.
You would be time and money ahead by getting a RKE module from Travis at KC Autosound, but if you want to try your hand at wiring the factory one you can.
The keypad, there are 2 different types. The stick on keypad is actually another RKE fob programmed to the RAP/CSM, where the one in the door handle is wired directly to it.
There are more pictures in my interior album on the SCrew install, just to give you an idea, the 2000 will be a bit different, and require adding the wires from the door to the a-pillar if you want to do this ( the NLOC site has a how to on the std / SCab install ).
If you want to spend the extra money and time to have a code alarm branded ford system, let us know.
Else just get the Code Alarm RKE from travis, with the additional small fee to have it prewired for your MY with diagrams, and be done in under 2 hours.
You would be doing a lot of wiring and mounting of the relays if you got a RAP ( up to NOV-2000 build date ).
If you got a CSM, it would be a bit easier, as there are no relays to mount ( the PDL go direct to the CSM ), this would be build dates after NOV-2000.
You would be time and money ahead by getting a RKE module from Travis at KC Autosound, but if you want to try your hand at wiring the factory one you can.
The keypad, there are 2 different types. The stick on keypad is actually another RKE fob programmed to the RAP/CSM, where the one in the door handle is wired directly to it.
There are more pictures in my interior album on the SCrew install, just to give you an idea, the 2000 will be a bit different, and require adding the wires from the door to the a-pillar if you want to do this ( the NLOC site has a how to on the std / SCab install ).
If you want to spend the extra money and time to have a code alarm branded ford system, let us know.
Else just get the Code Alarm RKE from travis, with the additional small fee to have it prewired for your MY with diagrams, and be done in under 2 hours.
#18
I have a 2000 F-150 XLT with a RAP module installed that is currently causing fuse 4 to blow in the cab fuse panel. I was wondering if there was a way to test the RAP module to see if it is the module itself that's bad? My Gem module went bad (burnt traces on the board of the Gem from the power-in pin), and it was only after this happened that I started blowing fuses. When I use my multi-meter on the fuse I measure 15 ohms from the fuse to the ground.
I figured I could pick up a replacement RAP at the junkyard, and might if there isn't another way to test it.
Thanks for any help!
I figured I could pick up a replacement RAP at the junkyard, and might if there isn't another way to test it.
Thanks for any help!
#21
Key fobs won’t program
I have power locks and I have the off white box under the
dash. My problem is I can’t get my truck to go into programming mode to program my new key fobs. There is some kind of plug hanging that I can’t find where it plugs into and wonder if that’s my problem.
The RAP ( Remote Antitheft Personality ) Module is up behind the dash, if installed.
Note parking brake to the left side of the picture.
Driver's side floor looking up
Looking up behind dash.
Left side of picture is the ratchet mech for the parking brake.
The white box in the back ground is the RAP, it will have a 5 digit number on it.
If the RAP is not there, the truck did not come with the factory RKE, and the wiring is not going to be there. PDL and PDL with RKE are 2 different installs from the factory.
If the truck is not wired for RKE from the factory, it is much easier to add an after market RKE to the truck. You can get the Ford branded Code Alarm unit, so the fobs looks factory.
Check with Travis at KCAutosound to find a unit that is best for you.
He sells unit that can be pre wired for your MY truck, and include the diagrams for the install, to make everything dirt easy.
Note parking brake to the left side of the picture.
Driver's side floor looking up
Looking up behind dash.
Left side of picture is the ratchet mech for the parking brake.
The white box in the back ground is the RAP, it will have a 5 digit number on it.
If the RAP is not there, the truck did not come with the factory RKE, and the wiring is not going to be there. PDL and PDL with RKE are 2 different installs from the factory.
If the truck is not wired for RKE from the factory, it is much easier to add an after market RKE to the truck. You can get the Ford branded Code Alarm unit, so the fobs looks factory.
Check with Travis at KCAutosound to find a unit that is best for you.
He sells unit that can be pre wired for your MY truck, and include the diagrams for the install, to make everything dirt easy.
#22
For key fobs you just need to turn the key on and off 8 times I believe. The 8th time you'll leave it in the on position. Has to be done within 10 seconds. Then you press lock or unlock on the key fob to program it. Both have to be done in the same session as every time you do that it wipes the memory of the key fobs previously programmed.
#23
Thank you but I did do this process 6 times and no success. I even tried a few other ways with no success. I have a plug that seem to be disconnected from somewhere around the black box under the dash, I have a picture of it but don’t know how to upload pictures from my iPhone to the forum.