Redoing my fog light wiring

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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 04:14 PM
  #1  
bconnaway's Avatar
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From: Floresville, TX
Redoing my fog light wiring

I was looking at changing my current wiring to this:


right now i just have the switches, but was thinking about wiring my lights into the highs so when i turn on the highs, all my lights turn on. right now its just kinda a hassle when i hit oncoming traffic to turn off 2 switches then hit my highs back to lows. this way i have the option to turn on my lights at any time or they do it automatically when i turn on my highs. that fuse should be hot when the highs come on since im pretty sure it is the one that turns on that blue symbol on your dash and it should also be able to handle that load since it is just going to a relay, right? just wanted to get some second opinions before i start splicing into wiring...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Not real sure of what that diagram was trying to show....

How about an easier route, use 2 SPDT switches to the coil for the aux lamp relays.

One side of the switch is to the parking lamps or hot in run position add-a-fuse ( which ever mode you want to manually turn on the aux lamps )
The other side of the switch is to the high beam circuit.

This is for aux reverse lamps, but the same hold true



The top that is marked brown wire is to the brown wire in the main headlamp switch ( if powered with the parking lamps on )
The bottom instead of to the reverse lamps ( what the drawing was made for ) is actually to the high beam circuit ( yellow wire from the MFS along side the steering wheel column. The wire to the instrument cluster is Light Green w/ Black stripe wire on the cluster connector ( top back of cluster, need to remove the cluster to gain access to this ).

When you tap into these circuits for the relay coils, use an inline fuse to isolate them. The fuse should be a max of 1A.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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From: Floresville, TX
thats similar to what i was looking at. i currently don't have the top part of my diagram so i just flip 2 switches to the relays to turn on the lights. i just found a fuse in the fuse box though that should go hot when highs are on. that way i would run wires from that in parallel to the switches so the lights automatically turn on with the highs, or i can turn them on by them selves through the switch.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Did you get this done? How did it work out for you?

I'm looking at doing the same kind of thing for my Hella 2500s. The main beam will come on with the high beams, and the halo will be on any time the truck is switched on, but I still want a switch to turn on the main beam anytime I want it on, regardless of key position/headlight status.

Just wondering how it worked out for you.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Fuse the halos to the fuel pump relay (if your truck has one) so they only come on if the engine is running. Add a switch to kill them.

For the other lights, this diagram is essentially the same as SSCULLY's:



But instead of tapping the dome light circuit, you'd tap the truck's hi beam circuit.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 03:31 AM
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From: Floresville, TX
Originally Posted by tenzip
Did you get this done? How did it work out for you?

I'm looking at doing the same kind of thing for my Hella 2500s. The main beam will come on with the high beams, and the halo will be on any time the truck is switched on, but I still want a switch to turn on the main beam anytime I want it on, regardless of key position/headlight status.

Just wondering how it worked out for you.
what i ended up doing is using only fuse 35 to power the relays. i ran a wire from the fuse box to my switches in dash, then back to the relay. Then, i normally leave the switches in the on position (since they can only get power when the fuse is hot) so now whenever i turn on my high beams, all my kc's come on as well. but it also gives me the option to turn them off when my high beams are on if i want to for some reason... used them for several hours over the past 2 weeks with hunting without any problems.

thing i realized about the diagram i put up is that if you turn on the switch via the constant 12v source when the high beams are off, it would also run 12v to fuse 35, turning on the high beam indicator and probably some other unwanted things as well. if you did this set up with a 3 way switch though with 1 going to the fuse 35 and the other to the constant 12v source, it would be more likely to work.
 
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