I have a fairly decent seized stereo (see sig.) and i was thinking about replacing my stock battery with the optima because i sometimes get dimming in my lights when the bass hits. I was wondering wether i should get one or two batteries (as some people use the second strictly for aftermarket) and what is the process in installing. Do i just buy one and drop it in, or are there harnesses i need, thanx!

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The TRUCK:
1999 Black F150 XLT Sport 4x4 Flareside, 4.6 Triton V-8, Manual Transmission, Captains Chairs, Power Everything.

Appearance Changes:
Button-down Tonneau Cover, Webasto Sunroof, Spray-on Bed-liner, Xenon Fog and Headlights, Blackwidow Car Alarm, Window Tint, Wet Okole Seats (ALL).

Stereo:
2 10" Kicker CompVR's on Fosgate 360a2, Kicker Components Front & Fosgate 5x7 Rear on Fosgate 200a4, Blaupunkt Muchen Deck.

Performance:
265/70 R17 Yokohama Geolandar A/T+, Borla Split-Rear Cat-Back Exhaust, K&N FIPK.

 

Check out the following thread and the links in the replies.

https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000461.html

 

Hey coolsvile,
I don't see a mention of a capacitor in your signature. I am sure you already know how important a stiffening Capacitor is to the long life of your altenator and battery. I think the general rule of thumb is 1farad for every 1,000 watts? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. That should help prevent the light dimming problem. And as for that stock battery....mine didn't last 3 years before I had to replace it. I don't have personal experience with the Optimas.(Way outta my price range.)


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97 F150 Reg Cab Short Bed
4.2L Auto
Current Performance mods=
Accel 9000Series Race Plug Wires
Motorcraft Platinum Plugs 60 Series Heat Rating
K&N Air Filter(Modified Stock Airbox)
Flowmaster 40 Single in/out.
B&M Shift Improver Kit(highly recommend!!)
Current Musical Improvements=
California Profile3600 running two front Pioneer5x7 three way speakers and a single 10" Cerwin Vega in my homebuilt port tuned box.
Pioneer Cassette/cd control head unit with matching Pioneer 6 disc changer.
1/2 Farad Stinger cap.

My other truck is an in the works 1950 Ford pickup.

 

COOLSVILLE

Cigarxtc is 100% dead on in his diagnosis. Even with a new battery your headlights will dim unless you get a stiffening capacitor for you amp that drives your subs. Cheapist place I have seen them is on UBid.com. I picked up a 1 farad cap for $30 from there.

Another benefit from adding a cap is MORE BASS!!! Your bass will hit harder, much harder with a cap. It will also extend the life of your amp and speakers.

Another thing to check would be wire size you have going to your amp. If your power and ground wire are too small, it will cause the same problem. Minimum 4 gauge power wire from the battery to a distribution block close to the amps. 8 gauge from the distribution block to the amps, as short as possible. Same with the ground. 4 gauge bolted to the frame to a distribution block close to the amps, 8 gauge from the block to the amps.

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Boss™

Ordered June 29th, 2000; took delivery Nov. 28th: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver Supercab 4x4, Styleside, 5.4L, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless.Engine build date: 10-25-00

Modifications:
"Protected by the Owner with his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, Hyper-White headlight & foglight bulbs, Pioneer DEH-8200R, Ventshades(not on back doors), Hood deflector, Superchip.

Future Modifications:
3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system

[This message has been edited by Boss96Hog (edited 03-31-2001).]

 

I find that caps are good for the Bass Burps but otherwise are a waste of money and I would spend my money on a good battery. Any optima is ok, red is good for all around, yellow is also good but less CCA, and the Blue which I like the best is the best of both of them. I use 2000+watt amos for subs and just run a 4ga to the amp from the battery, 4ga ground (the amps I use fit 4ga) and I show all the time that adding a cap does squat and if you decide to get a cap have the show demo it and see for yourself if you can hear the difference(Or if your lights still pulse). If they can't demo it and show you how much it will improve your bass by adding one don't buy one from there. Also don't forget if you add another battery you need to charge that battery which will also strain the electrical system. I only add on battery's for people how will be at shows playing the system, that's all extra batteries will do.

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My truck at:

http://www.streetscenemag.com/ViewOw...?ProfileID=202

[This message has been edited by Silver X (edited 03-31-2001).]

 

Gentleman,
Being an avid car audio enthusiast, I will explain a bit about capacitors and whatnot...a Capacitor, or "cap" is not going to cure your headlight dimming problem. If you stop and think about it, a capacitor is just more of a drain on the vehicles electrical system. The problem you have is stemming from 1 or both of the following problems. First of all, you might try replacing your battery with one of greater CCA capacity. I did this, replacing my motocraft battery with an Optima nad it solved my problem. Secondly, the majority of electrical problems involved in car audio stems from your alternator. If you draw more current than your alternator and battery can provide, you will get dimming, among otherthings. So, by adding a cap, you're only increasing things that need current...get a new Alt. and you wont have any such problems...on top of that, you'll have alot more electrical headroom to run off-road lights and other fun stuff=)
Thank You! If you guys wanna read more about car audio and electrical issues, check out http://www.elitecaraudio.com

 

Brieldo you hit the nail on the head, I forgot to cover that, Definitly have the alt rebuilt (or get new) with some more output. You'll be a happy camper and you'll spend your money wisely.

 

not being an avid car audio enthusist but being an electronic technician, I feel able to say that a capacitor is not a constant drain on an electrical system. a cap. will charge to battery voltage and is done till load exceeds alternator supply. then the cap will begin discharging thus adding voltage to the system. a 1 farad cap is big-I've never seen one-and would take some time to charge, increasing battery load, but after it is charged will be done till a component calls for more amps than the alternator can generate. then the cap will add to the supply. I see this as a band-aid for some high drain accessories. A better alternator is the way to go but costs more.

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97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-Airraid-Perma-cool electric fan & controller

 

redlariet, exactly...it's just a bandaid...if you wanna draw more amperage from your vehicle and your alternator isnt going to be able to keep up, a cap is not going to solve the problem. Get a new alt or your alt rebuilt with a bigger coil.