I will be picking up a fiberglass topper this weekend and need to wire the 12v lite inside. Any suggestions on were to run the 12v and ground from?

minncrew

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2001 SuperCrew XLT 4x4, 5.4L, 3.55L/S,
Rear Slider, Skid Plates, Keyless Entry,
Tow Package, Cab Steps, Black



[This message has been edited by minncrew (edited 09-05-2000).]

 

You have 2 options:
You could tap into the license plate marker lights. The problem with this is you need to have the lights on to use the cap light. (This is how most places will wire it)

You could run a wire from the starter relay under the hood. This way the light will have power all the time. This is how I did it and it works out nice.

Either way make sure that you install a fuse in-line.

As for a ground just find a screw or bolt around the back of the truck and use that.

You also might want to install a connector where it enters the body so if you ever want to remove the topper you don't have to cut the wires. A 4 lead connector will work because of the 3rd brake light.

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GOLD RUSH

'99 F150 XLT SC SB 4x2 Harvest Gold
Factory[*]5.4[*]3.55 limited slip[*]Trailer towing package[*]In-dash CD player
Aftermarket[*]Ford Beanie bear[*]Slip on extender mirrors[*]Powerstop brake controller[*]Covermaster C1000 topper with wing[*]BugflectorII[*]Ventvisors (front&rear)[*]3 www.f150online.com decals[*]Ford Lumi Logo[*]Steelhorse Billet grill[*]Ford hitch cover[*]Yellow wire loom[*]Hyper White head light bulb[*]Painted to match AVS slotted taillight covers[*]Ford system 4 alarm[*]Clear turn signals[*]"Blazer" strip reflectors under tailgate[*]FORD script antenna painted to match[*]Next who knows???

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firezapper@home.com



[This message has been edited by Firezap (edited 09-05-2000).]

 

Firezap,

Thanks for the info. You da man.

 

I am about to wire the light inside my ARE cap. I bought the Helminc wiring diagram book for the 2000 f-150 in order to find a good site to tap into the dome light circuit. On my '94 Ranger this was the best set up. If you tap into the starter relay for a continuous power lead you run the risk of battery drain if the light in the cap is accidentally left on (unless you wire a spring switch attached to the cap door). If you use the license plate light you are limited to only when the lights are on. If I find a good tap-in spot I'll post it if anyone is interested.

 

Hey Duntleyp,

My cap light is wired directly to the battery, as is the third break-light. The guys did it when they installed the cap. So yes, if I leave it on, it'll wear down the battery.

Which brings me to the question, how much "wear down" will having this little light on, say, 2-3 hours in the evenings while I play cards with my boy when we're camping? See, I'm thinking of adding another light so we can read those Harry Potter books, and I'm wondering if this will put a drain on the battery or not.

Any advice? Thanks

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Promises Do Come True: 2000 F-150 XLT 4.6L V8 auto, supercab, oxford white/dark graphite, 3.55 LS, std bed, prem CD, class III towing, sliding rear window. ADDED: Westin step bars, Fumoto oil valve, Ford bugshield, Vent Visors, Penda Hide-A-Hooks, Rhino bed liner, SnugTop HiLiner cap, Lee Anderson carpet kit (sweet!), Kleen Wheel brake dust shields, Yakima TerraGate 2 hitch bike rack, rubber duckie antenna, Ford wheel locks, dark gray Dash Mat, stoopid fuel magnets, Lund wiper cowl, EGR fender flares, Ford cabin air filtration, custom curtains for the bed, custom cupholder inserts, custom sunglass insert for the garage door opener compartmenet. SOON: K&N FIPK, Flowmaster Delta 40 or 50, and of course, a SuperChip.

 

If you are worried about forgeting the light on, you can also use a mercury switch attached to whatever part of your topper goes up. Most cars and trucks use one for the light under the hood, so take a trip to a junk yard and look for one in good shape.

As for battery drain, small lights like that running off a strong fairly new battery should have very little drain. If I were going to lights for extended periods of time with my truck off, I would get a second battery with an isolator switch like most boats use. Last thing you want is to chance a dead battery in the middle of the woods.

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Boss™

Ordered June 29th: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver 4x4, SC, SB, SS, 99L 5.4L, 44E tran, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Planned Mods:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, headers, Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system

 

If you have the tow package, there is a battery lead to the rear bumper 7-pin connector. Just tap in anywhere along this circuit. The nice thing about this circuit is that it is only hot with the key in on position.

[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 11-10-2000).]