Rewiring My 8 KC lights, any tips or tricks
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From: New Jersey
Rewiring My 8 KC lights, any tips or tricks
With in the next month or so I wll be re wireing all my off road lights with 12 gauge wire, this will be a whole days job if not more than a day, my swichs are located on my over head lights case above the winshield, i will have to remove the head liner part of the dash and the side molding, does anyone have any tips tricks parts i should use to make this as easy as possible, places to hide the wires, should i cover the wires with that black convoluted tubing, what kind of connecters should i use, should and where should i install inline fuses, and what size fuse? best place to ground all the wires ? any help would be nice, thanks guys, i depend on the information of this site to get the job done, thanks
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
If the switches are already controlling relays from the overhead, there is no need to take that down. As long as the power to the switches is fused, those should be good to go.
The fuse size for each relay to control the lights is depending on what size the lights are. 55 W lights would have 1 size fuse, and 100W lights a different.
The black tubing is a personal item, some do this, others use wire tape that is made for protecting the harness ( either smooth like today's harness, or more like Hockey tape for that older look ).
Connectors, the best route is to get relay bases and solder / heat shrink tube the splices. Next option is to use female terminal connectors, this is a person choice on which way to go.
Depending on how the 8 lamps are configured ( 4 pairs ? ) inline fuses would be a bit of a mess. You can go with the Centech fuse panel, Fuzeblock or the bluesea fuse panel to make a neater install for powering the relays.
Considering this is always hot configuration for powering the relays, the centech one is an easy choice, but you might want the option of having a mixed hot in run / always hot, which would be the Fuzeblock. This is depending on the size of the lamps.
Painless Wiring makes some fuse blocks, but these are the old raised type, that take a bit more room. Again personal preference on which on.
The fuse size for each relay to control the lights is depending on what size the lights are. 55 W lights would have 1 size fuse, and 100W lights a different.
The black tubing is a personal item, some do this, others use wire tape that is made for protecting the harness ( either smooth like today's harness, or more like Hockey tape for that older look ).
Connectors, the best route is to get relay bases and solder / heat shrink tube the splices. Next option is to use female terminal connectors, this is a person choice on which way to go.
Depending on how the 8 lamps are configured ( 4 pairs ? ) inline fuses would be a bit of a mess. You can go with the Centech fuse panel, Fuzeblock or the bluesea fuse panel to make a neater install for powering the relays.
Considering this is always hot configuration for powering the relays, the centech one is an easy choice, but you might want the option of having a mixed hot in run / always hot, which would be the Fuzeblock. This is depending on the size of the lamps.
Painless Wiring makes some fuse blocks, but these are the old raised type, that take a bit more room. Again personal preference on which on.