Might be a bad idea to guess you had a good ground. Easiest one to use is the metal ring in the cigar lighter or the DC power port. Next one is in the kick panel by the parking brake. If you were good with getting the meter probe in there, the black wire on the main headlamp switch connector for the dimmer is ground.

The colors are correct colors, but the pin assignments are not correct, and would span 2 different connector.

This is what the colors should be:

Dark Blue/Orange = power from fuse # 8 in the Engine compartment fuse panel. pin 4 C246

Red/Yellow = Power from the on position of the headlamp switch to the MFS for the lo / hi beam operation pin 5, C245

LtBlu/Red = Instrument illumination for everything but the radio, pin 6, C246

Black = ground on C246

Yellow = switched ground to fog lamp relay coil, pin 2, C246

LtBlu/Blk = instrument illumination for the radio, pin 3, C246

 

so do i need to order a new switch, were did you find the one for 60 bucks

 

Only if you want to possibly waste money, and still have a problem.

Did you check the bulbs yet ?

If your window button lights still work, this is the dimmer is putting out the correct voltage, it is on the same circuit as instrument cluster.
Dimmer switch to splice S242 is good, which is where it branches out.
This would make the logical next step to try swapping a bulb.
The HVAC bulbs ( function selector in the diagram ) are the easiest to get at.
Pull the HVAC panel, and check the bulb connector for voltage.

This is 71-2, the continuation of the page above, 71-1.

 

SSCULLY, Thanks for the info and the diagrams. FWIW, the switch has three connectors. I gave you the wiring from the middle one only. I'll guess that the left connector is for the headlights and the right one is for fog lights, which I don't have. The right connector has two wires but the switch doesn't have any contacts for them. They plug into a dummy socket. Swap left and right if looking at the back of the switch.

I used the door hinge mounting bolt as my ground.

I found the switch on the internet at Northern Parts Supply, but they only had one. AutoZone has the bare bones switch, no fog or autolights, for $69.99, and it's special order.

 

so you think its my bulbs, now heres a lilttle story, when i got my new stero i tired to hook it up myself, i know dumb, but i cut all the wires and tired to hard wire it in, again dumb i know, but that moring i drove it to collage, and when i started it up at home two of the wires touched and then the lights went dead, any help

 

were can i get the lights for the hvac at? Thanks for any help in advance

 

Any auto parts store would have the bulbs for the HVAC panel.

Best to test the bulb connector for power 1st.

 

what are the bulb numbers for them?

 

SSCULLY, A couple of things. It looks from the diagrams that G200 is the ground for all these lights. Can you tell me where G200 is located?

Also, the diagram mentions Page 149-1 for testing the switch. Can you post page 149-1?

Thanks for your help.

 

I wrote earlier that the Lights On Alarm didn't work. Is it also grounded by G200?

 

Sorry, had to get the 1998 MY versions of the test and the G200 location.

G200 grounds quite a few things
Function selector switch ( HVAC ), Blower Motor Resistor, flahser relay, blower relay, instrument cluster, blend door actuator, clock spring, 4WD mode switch, Transfer case shift relay, trailer brake controller, PAD switch, ashtray illumination, glove compartment lamp, right door ajar switch, radio, main light switch, ignition switch, shift actuator, left door ajar switch.

When you say the Lights On Alarm, is this beep / ding from the GEM speaker ?
G200 is in the passenger side kick panel, by the fuel inertia switch


Main headlamp switch testing for 1998 MY

 

SSCULLY, Thanks a bunch!. Since this is a base model, most of those things you mentioned don't exist, but the one's that do don't seem to work anymore and G200 is common to all. The glove box lamp is one I haven't looked at, but I'm nearly convinced that it's a ground problem. Yes, the LightsON Alarm (ding, ding, ding) activates when the light switch is on and the left door ajar sensor is activated, or something like that. So I've read. The door ajar panel indicator is working.
I've only had the truck a few weeks, but I think it used to work before all this panel light stuff started. I know the panel lights were working.
I'll look at G200 today or tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

SSCULLY, Would you please double check that the glove box lamp is grounded at G200. The light is working and it would help to know where it picks up its feed and ground. Thanks again for all this.

 

sscully, is there a fuse that controls my cluster lights and my hvac lights?

 

Here are the pages from the grounding section, glove box is in cell 10-4, Splice S203 to splice S201 ( 10-3 ) to splice S200 ( 10-2 ) to G200.
The power is from the battery saver relay to splice S240 t the glove box lamp. Splice S240 is the battery saver relay output, the glove box lamp, the engine compartment lamp, and to the dome lamp for power ( the glove box lamp is on the courtesy lamp circuit ( dome lamp, etc ).