Power Mirrors Question
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
Power Mirrors Question
So im in the process of adding power options to my 98 xl.
ive already added keyless entry and power locks. the next two steps are gonna be power windows and mirrors.
i will be getting stock door panels with the switches as well as the mirrors themselves. the problem is i may be missing the wiring from the mirror to the switch.
i have the wiring diagram and im pretty sure that from the looks of it the motors will be contained in the mirror si i will only need to run power and grounds (making my own fuse and such to not mess with the factory stuff) and the wires from the switch itself to the mirrors.
any input from anyone that has messed with these is appreciated. i called the local ford and the guy had no idea about getting the wires (even told me if i can know what all that is i should work there)
heres the diagram thanks
ive already added keyless entry and power locks. the next two steps are gonna be power windows and mirrors.
i will be getting stock door panels with the switches as well as the mirrors themselves. the problem is i may be missing the wiring from the mirror to the switch.
i have the wiring diagram and im pretty sure that from the looks of it the motors will be contained in the mirror si i will only need to run power and grounds (making my own fuse and such to not mess with the factory stuff) and the wires from the switch itself to the mirrors.
any input from anyone that has messed with these is appreciated. i called the local ford and the guy had no idea about getting the wires (even told me if i can know what all that is i should work there)
heres the diagram thanks
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
The motor is in the mirror head, no problem there.
The setup is just like you suspected, you will just be using your own power circuit vs the factory one ( 97-99 seem to not have the wiring regardless of the trim level, so don't expect it there ).
Might want to take a look at the bone yard to get the truck's side of the connectors that you will need to have ( C507 & C607 ). With the door panel off, it will be easy to get enough on the passenger's side to get to the rubber boot.
The driver's side will be dirt easy, it should be about 3' long. Get both the mirror and the switch connectors (C511 ) . This way you only have to run power to the door, and the wires from the switch to the a-pillar to route to the other side.
You can also cheat, and use the accessory delay ( truck's or one you make from a relay ) for both the window and the mirror ( no real need for the hot at all times on the mirror ).
Driver's door to a-pillar
3 wires for the power mirror to the passenger's side.
2 wires for the signal in the mirror ( if you get them, and use a lug on the door for ground with the ground wire through the rubber boot )
1 wire for the accessory delay to both sides for the power windows ( use the same ground as above, size accordingly )
2 wires from the driver's door to the passenger's door for the power window circuit ( passenger's window runs through the driver's switch ).
1 wire for the instrument illumination circuit for the LEDs in the switches ( from the output of the instrument dimmer dial on the main headlamp switch )
Passenger's door to a-pillar
3 wires for the power mirror to driver's side
2 wires for the signal in the mirror ( if you get them, and use a lug on the door for ground with the ground wire through the rubber boot )
1 wire for the power window lock out switch from driver's side ( use the same ground as above, size accordingly )
2 wires from the driver's door to the passenger's door for the power window circuit ( passenger's window runs through the driver's switch ).
1 wire for the instrument illumination circuit for the LEDs in the switches ( from the output of the instrument dimmer dial on the main headlamp switch )
If I got the count correctly, this would be everything to each door.
The setup is just like you suspected, you will just be using your own power circuit vs the factory one ( 97-99 seem to not have the wiring regardless of the trim level, so don't expect it there ).
Might want to take a look at the bone yard to get the truck's side of the connectors that you will need to have ( C507 & C607 ). With the door panel off, it will be easy to get enough on the passenger's side to get to the rubber boot.
The driver's side will be dirt easy, it should be about 3' long. Get both the mirror and the switch connectors (C511 ) . This way you only have to run power to the door, and the wires from the switch to the a-pillar to route to the other side.
You can also cheat, and use the accessory delay ( truck's or one you make from a relay ) for both the window and the mirror ( no real need for the hot at all times on the mirror ).
Driver's door to a-pillar
3 wires for the power mirror to the passenger's side.
2 wires for the signal in the mirror ( if you get them, and use a lug on the door for ground with the ground wire through the rubber boot )
1 wire for the accessory delay to both sides for the power windows ( use the same ground as above, size accordingly )
2 wires from the driver's door to the passenger's door for the power window circuit ( passenger's window runs through the driver's switch ).
1 wire for the instrument illumination circuit for the LEDs in the switches ( from the output of the instrument dimmer dial on the main headlamp switch )
Passenger's door to a-pillar
3 wires for the power mirror to driver's side
2 wires for the signal in the mirror ( if you get them, and use a lug on the door for ground with the ground wire through the rubber boot )
1 wire for the power window lock out switch from driver's side ( use the same ground as above, size accordingly )
2 wires from the driver's door to the passenger's door for the power window circuit ( passenger's window runs through the driver's switch ).
1 wire for the instrument illumination circuit for the LEDs in the switches ( from the output of the instrument dimmer dial on the main headlamp switch )
If I got the count correctly, this would be everything to each door.
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
Damn I forgot about the switch lights. I'm gonna have to make them blue also to match everything.
Sounds pretty much just like I thought it would and not too difficult compared to how it could be. I'm gonna have to call around here and see if I can find some of the connectors for the switches. Can you go into more detail of what the delay thing involves. That's the only part I'm not fully understanding
Sounds pretty much just like I thought it would and not too difficult compared to how it could be. I'm gonna have to call around here and see if I can find some of the connectors for the switches. Can you go into more detail of what the delay thing involves. That's the only part I'm not fully understanding
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
This is a bit uncharted area for the Accessory Delay relay and circuit on a XL.
In the 97-03 MY trucks it powers the windows so once the key is shut off, the windows will work until the time runs out ( ~ 12-15 min ) or a door is opened.
This would be with XLT and higher trim levels.MY 2001 XLT with power windows had it, don't know what would happen without the power convenience group.
Relay #5 in the CJB ( aka Central Junction Box, cab fuse panel ) would be installed if the accessory delay circuit is installed. Don't know if you are going to find this or not. The Fuse for it is BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, Engine Compartment fuse panel ) Fuse #25. The GEM controls the count down timer and removes ground to the accessory delay relay coil when the time runs out.
If this is not installed, the easy route is to just use a Hot in Run position ( like the radio ) to install an add a fuse to trigger a relay, and have the circuit be connected to the battery with a fuse.
There is no delay with this setup, unless you get an off delay relay. Square-D makes one, but this is more industrial grade, and usually cost ~ 120.00 each, but would work for power window size loads.
Elk Security makes one for home security systems, these I seem to recall are ~ 30.00 each, but I do not think they are designed for power window type loads. It would be getting a bit expensive to emulate, but the ELK relay would control a Bosch 40A relay, to emulate the factory operation of the power windows ( if you care to make it that close in operation ).
Don't know if you have thought about this part that much, or if you even care to emulate the factory operation of the power windows.
In the 97-03 MY trucks it powers the windows so once the key is shut off, the windows will work until the time runs out ( ~ 12-15 min ) or a door is opened.
This would be with XLT and higher trim levels.MY 2001 XLT with power windows had it, don't know what would happen without the power convenience group.
Relay #5 in the CJB ( aka Central Junction Box, cab fuse panel ) would be installed if the accessory delay circuit is installed. Don't know if you are going to find this or not. The Fuse for it is BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, Engine Compartment fuse panel ) Fuse #25. The GEM controls the count down timer and removes ground to the accessory delay relay coil when the time runs out.
If this is not installed, the easy route is to just use a Hot in Run position ( like the radio ) to install an add a fuse to trigger a relay, and have the circuit be connected to the battery with a fuse.
There is no delay with this setup, unless you get an off delay relay. Square-D makes one, but this is more industrial grade, and usually cost ~ 120.00 each, but would work for power window size loads.
Elk Security makes one for home security systems, these I seem to recall are ~ 30.00 each, but I do not think they are designed for power window type loads. It would be getting a bit expensive to emulate, but the ELK relay would control a Bosch 40A relay, to emulate the factory operation of the power windows ( if you care to make it that close in operation ).
Don't know if you have thought about this part that much, or if you even care to emulate the factory operation of the power windows.
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
yea havent given much thought to the delay and im trying for factory look more than function. but if you say i should have the necessary things to create a delay its worth a shot or just grabbing an acc power from my amp or radio.
im gonna head out to a local yard to see if i can grab some connectors thursday so ill have some time to look at all this stuff since i wont have the mirrors themselves and switches until next week
im gonna head out to a local yard to see if i can grab some connectors thursday so ill have some time to look at all this stuff since i wont have the mirrors themselves and switches until next week
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
You may or may not have the accessory delay installed in the XL rim level truck.
Don't know why it would be there, the power windows are the only thing I can think of on the accessory delay ckt in the 97-03 MY trucks.
You can just do a hot in the run / accy position like the radio ( using the radio fuse w/ an add-a-fuse to trigger a relay ), that would work just fine too.
Don't know why it would be there, the power windows are the only thing I can think of on the accessory delay ckt in the 97-03 MY trucks.
You can just do a hot in the run / accy position like the radio ( using the radio fuse w/ an add-a-fuse to trigger a relay ), that would work just fine too.
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
alright well thanks for the help man. im gonna have to get all this stuff together and i may start running wire this weekend when i have time but ill be sure to keep update on how it goes and maybe ill have a full on xlt conversion.(minus auto trans and tach haha)
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
just wanted to thank you again sscully for suggesting to get the connectors. i grabbed them today for 10 bucks for both sides and now i have the diagrams for the locks and windows and the corresponding wire colors to figure it all out. may be a while before its all installed as i still need to buy power window kit and swap the switch leds but its gonna help alot.
