Fuse #117 '07 scab

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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
Roger Wilco's Avatar
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From: Greensboro, NC
Fuse #117 '07 scab

Two part Q:

1. Working with one of those Saleen sub set ups (see https://www.f150online.com/forums/speakers-subwoofers/348957-saleen-sub-enclosure-5.html) and had a question about fuse #117 and what it may be used for. Manual says not used. Fuse box say it is (a 20 in there). Any idea?

2. Sub's being hooked up to always hot (per the instructions) - any recommended ACC spots that would be better (maybe piggy-back off of it)?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Don't know what your Owner's manual shows, but the one from fleet.ford.com, 2nd printing shows F117 is the is the 20 A instrument panel power point fuse.
This is an always hot fuse.

For the sub, you are best to use an add-a-fuse to control a relay to power the sub, without knowing the load it is going to draw. Or in the case of you wanting it always hot, just run a fused circuit right from the battery for it.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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Stealth's Avatar
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The Saleen powered sub comes with an inline fuse in the supplied power line. The sub is switched on by the head unit via a supplied tee harness.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 11:10 PM
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I answered your question in the Saleen Sub thread but this is the same answer:
Originally Posted by Roger Wilco
Further installation notes. My fuse #117 was also "occupied" so couldn't use it. My 104 was open so used that, but noticed that the terminal is always hot. That's not good. Since the manual says that #117 is "not used", I pulled it to plug in the sub and I also found that the top terminal (per the instructions) is always hot as well. WTF? Is anyone using another fuse spot, one that's off the ACC side?
Yeah, same situation for me, in fact I added an on/off switch in my glove box to make sure I had no issues, then I contacted RockFord Fosgate and received the following response from their tech:
"Todd:
The unit only comes on when there is signal there. It is a signal sensing unit. When the radio is off, the amp subwoofer package is off."
Which I think is the way most amps nowadays work (?), but it looks like were good to go on this issue! YMMV
 
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 09:19 AM
  #5  
Roger Wilco's Avatar
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Hey guys, this is great feedback and exactly what I was looking for. Appreciate the look up on the fuses and also the best approach, but as noted, no need to run anything else since the sub does come with an inline as well. And also thanks for the clarification on how it works with an "always hot" main feed; good to know, would otherwise walk out to a dead battery! (and no need for a switch) Thanks a bunch.
 
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