Help with wiring?

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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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Question Help with wiring?

could someone help me with wiring Patman's reverse lights? Just walk me through it if you dont mind... (sorry not a wiring sort of guy im sure its easy)

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...se-fogs-2.html
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Can anyone help me?

now instead of the reverse fogs im going to have leds that run along the bottom of the cab on both sides under the doors and im going to slice into the bed lights so when i push the unlock button the leds will light up so you can see the running boards and everything. Just a fun add on i thought i could do for cheap. Does anyone know would this work? if you think it could is it as easy as slicing into the bed lights? please let me know! thanks so much.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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Does anyone on here know about wiring?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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From: DFW
you want the running boards to light up when the cargo light is on?

Just run a relay and some wires, pretty easy install, just like the reverse fogs are.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Are you using strip LED lighting or those big rig side lights?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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just a strip of leds from autozone i think. where can i get the relays and wiring i need? can someone talk me through what exactly ill have to do to wire it up?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 11:33 PM
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From: DFW
I can talk you through how to wire it up, the relays are 5-10 bucks from autozone. Just get a standard ISO relay, with pin numbers 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a

and you will probably need 20 feet of 14g wire
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 05:04 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
This might help, with a lack of pictures or directions so far in the thread.



This was for another thread, but the relay & wiring concepts are the same.

Wire size and fuse depends on the load used, and where the wire will be run at.

Auto wire is 105*C ratted, where the stuff you get at home depot is 90* C wire. If you are using 90* wire, you need to over size it, if the heat could be an issue. The hotter the wire gets, the less the AMP capacity it has.
 

Last edited by SSCULLY; Jan 20, 2009 at 05:11 PM. Reason: add in additional questions
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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so is the "devices" or hot in run position item the cargo light? thanks for the picture it helps a ton.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by grantoser
so is the "devices" or hot in run position item the cargo light? thanks for the picture it helps a ton.
Bit more clarity

the device is the reverse lights, or now the LED strips.

The hot in run position is the trigger for the relay, i.e. what you want to turn them on with.

How do you want to be able to turn them on ?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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i was thinking i could use the cargo lights, because then they would come one when the door opens or the unlock button is pushed... would that work?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by grantoser
i was thinking i could use the cargo lights, because then they would come one when the door opens or the unlock button is pushed... would that work?
Yes that work just fine. So in the drawing the add-a-fuse reference is actually the input from the courtesy lamps.

I can't recall right now for sure, I think that is in the passenger side C-pillar, going up to the CHMSL / cargo lamp.
You are looking for a Black w/ light blue wire.

Now is a good time to think if you are adding more accessories later.

If so, might be a good idea to put in a fuse panel that is hot in the run position.

This is one I use on my bike, the other bike has a Centech one on it.
www.fuzeblocks.com

The Centech, Fuzeblocks and I think it is the Bluemarine from a boat shop


The Fuzeblock has the relay for the fuse panel already in it, and you can select each fuse as hot in run position, or hot all the time.



You would still need the relay for the led strips ( and any other high AMP draw devices, beyond the 30 A limit on the Fuzeblocks
 

Last edited by SSCULLY; Jan 21, 2009 at 08:59 AM. Reason: resize pictures
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Yes that work just fine. So in the drawing the add-a-fuse reference is actually the input from the courtesy lamps.

I can't recall right now for sure, I think that is in the passenger side C-pillar, going up to the CHMSL / cargo lamp.
You are looking for a Black w/ light blue wire.

Now is a good time to think if you are adding more accessories later.

If so, might be a good idea to put in a fuse panel that is hot in the run position.

This is one I use on my bike, the other bike has a Centech one on it.
www.fuzeblocks.com

The Centech, Fuzeblocks and I think it is the Bluemarine from a boat shop


The Fuzeblock has the relay for the fuse panel already in it, and you can select each fuse as hot in run position, or hot all the time.



You would still need the relay for the led strips ( and any other high AMP draw devices, beyond the 30 A limit on the Fuzeblocks
+1 on the Fuzeblock

New guy here as well. I've gleened a lot of good information from this site. I'm well into the process of hooking up my backup lights and camera as well well as other accessories using the Fuzeblock. I like it because it gives you the option to have a "switched" or constant circuit. This is the fuse block that I have on my bike as well. A little pricey but worth the money.

Blane
 
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