1998 f-150 power windows
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1998 f-150 power windows
power windows stopped working also dome light don't work
one key to this is that if key is turned to acc they work fine
don't work if key is in on position
any help would be great
brady
one key to this is that if key is turned to acc they work fine
don't work if key is in on position
any help would be great
brady
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Check the firewall and floor board up behind the dash on the driver's side.
Start from the firewall, directly behind the parking brake and work over.
Don't want to put the fear of god in you, but you could have a problem with the windshield leaking, and your GEM is causing the issue ??
The reason I say this is the Accessory delay relay & the battery saver relay are both controlled by the GEM.
Dome lights should be able to work regardless of the key position, but only if the GEM is enabling the battery saver relay.
Just something to start checking before looking for something else.
Start from the firewall, directly behind the parking brake and work over.
Don't want to put the fear of god in you, but you could have a problem with the windshield leaking, and your GEM is causing the issue ??
The reason I say this is the Accessory delay relay & the battery saver relay are both controlled by the GEM.
Dome lights should be able to work regardless of the key position, but only if the GEM is enabling the battery saver relay.
Just something to start checking before looking for something else.
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
The GEM is bolted to the back of the Central Junction box ( aka Cab fuse panel or CJB ).
The key is to start looking if there is water damage below this ( carpet where it is up on the firewall, rust / water stains, etc ).
If you are going to go right for checking the GEM, you need to pull the CJB out, then unbolt the GEM from the back of it, and then look at the pins between the 2 for discoloration.
The key is to start looking if there is water damage below this ( carpet where it is up on the firewall, rust / water stains, etc ).
If you are going to go right for checking the GEM, you need to pull the CJB out, then unbolt the GEM from the back of it, and then look at the pins between the 2 for discoloration.
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1998 Passenger Window Problem
Hi, SScully
I have just purchased a 1998 Ford F-150 4.6 triton v-8, 2-WD.
I have been reading some of your post and you are very knowledgeable; I wanted to ask you a question. I appreciate any advice you have and thank you in advance. I am a novice so be kind....
My Passenger Window will not budge, up or down.
1. The Driver window will roll up/down about 50% of the time usually when it is warmer it will work, when it is cold it won't.
2. I have checked all the fuses, under the dash on drivers side, all fuses are good. I don't know how to check the relays.
3. I have tested the switches and both sides are getting power. (In one post I read you suggested putting power to the Red w/yellow stripe and ground the opposite) Can you tell me how to put power to that? Run a line from the battery? This post can be found @ https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-problems.html
4. I also noticed that in a post you mentioned that the power to windows go through the Assory Relay?? My Dome light will not come on unless the key is turned on and there is no delay feature that I can tell. Could this be a solution? If so where do I find the Accory Relay/fuse.
5. This was on a post you made: " You can try the fuse or relay, but if the Driver's side works, it should be the same fuse on the '98 for the accy delay relay, BJB ( Battery Junction Box aka fuse panel in the engine compartment ) position # 25, 30A fuse." I looked at the BJB it is on my passenger side and I don't see fuses there, am I looking at the wrong thing?
6. Do know of a site that gives detail of how to pull the door panel off with out tearing anything up. Or could you make a suggestion of how to do it.
Well that is all for now, thank you.
Vondo
I have just purchased a 1998 Ford F-150 4.6 triton v-8, 2-WD.
I have been reading some of your post and you are very knowledgeable; I wanted to ask you a question. I appreciate any advice you have and thank you in advance. I am a novice so be kind....
My Passenger Window will not budge, up or down.
1. The Driver window will roll up/down about 50% of the time usually when it is warmer it will work, when it is cold it won't.
2. I have checked all the fuses, under the dash on drivers side, all fuses are good. I don't know how to check the relays.
3. I have tested the switches and both sides are getting power. (In one post I read you suggested putting power to the Red w/yellow stripe and ground the opposite) Can you tell me how to put power to that? Run a line from the battery? This post can be found @ https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-problems.html
4. I also noticed that in a post you mentioned that the power to windows go through the Assory Relay?? My Dome light will not come on unless the key is turned on and there is no delay feature that I can tell. Could this be a solution? If so where do I find the Accory Relay/fuse.
5. This was on a post you made: " You can try the fuse or relay, but if the Driver's side works, it should be the same fuse on the '98 for the accy delay relay, BJB ( Battery Junction Box aka fuse panel in the engine compartment ) position # 25, 30A fuse." I looked at the BJB it is on my passenger side and I don't see fuses there, am I looking at the wrong thing?
6. Do know of a site that gives detail of how to pull the door panel off with out tearing anything up. Or could you make a suggestion of how to do it.
Well that is all for now, thank you.
Vondo
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Vondo,
Welcome to the site, some of us can get cranky at times because we are old
, don't let that put you off
Question #2 :
Checking the relay is easy. For the diagram :
1. hook a meter in the ohms or resistance setting, and test the leads on pins # 30 & # 87. With no power on the relay, this should be infinity for ohms or no resistance.
2. Apply power to pins # 85 & 86 ( usually power is on pin # 85, but most of the time it does not matter the polarity. Just be to stick with the standard ). With power on the relay coil on pins 85&86, check the resistance on pins # 30 & # 87 again, now you should have a number close to zero for resistance.
If the resistance is high or did not change in this step the relay is bad. High resistance would show that the contacts in the relay are discolored, and this is a problem.
If you are getting power ( light blue w/ back stripe I think ? ) the accessory delay relay is fine, and the wiring into the door is fine ( A pillar area ).
Question #3
If you want to pull the door panel ( Muth Co directions if you saw those ) and apply power, I used an extra battery I had. If you do not have this, a DC adapter cord with the accessory end cut off will work. Try to find one with a larger AWG wire on it, some times auto stores have extensions that seem to have 16 AWG wire on them. Cut off the socket end, or the DC plug and strip it back a little. This will make a quick wire end to test direct to the window with.
Running a wire from the battery works also, just make sure to use at least 16 AWG wire ( 14 would be better for this length ). I think the test leads I sued were 16 AWG, but they were ~ 18" long each with alligator clips on them.
Question #4
The dome lamp could be a few things. The Battery Saver relay or the interior lamp relay, or the door switch. This is one thing to keep in mind as we get into the problem, but this is a different circuit then the accessory delay relay.
The accessory delay relay is Relay #5 in the passenger compartment fuse panel. Shown on page 138 of your owners manual.
Question #5 :
The BJB / engine compartment fuse panel should be on the driver's side for a 1998 MY truck.
In this picture, it still has the cover on it
BTW the one with the cover off is the Minifuse panel, and in the 1998 owners manual, they forgot to include this little detail. Ford's editing department didn't do so well here. Right click save as this jpeg, and print it out for sliding into your owners manual.
Question #6 :
You should be able to get the directions for door panel removal from Muth Co. Fill in the truck info on this page, and download the PDF for the mirror install.
http://www.muthco.com/products/carsandtrucks.htm
This should be your directions ( right click save as )
http://www.muthco.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000013.pdf
Check the motor directly, to see if they work. You know the accessory delay fuse and relay are good, as you said the switch had power to it in #3.
Good luck, let us know what the test results are for the motors.
Welcome to the site, some of us can get cranky at times because we are old
, don't let that put you off Question #2 :
Checking the relay is easy. For the diagram :
1. hook a meter in the ohms or resistance setting, and test the leads on pins # 30 & # 87. With no power on the relay, this should be infinity for ohms or no resistance.
2. Apply power to pins # 85 & 86 ( usually power is on pin # 85, but most of the time it does not matter the polarity. Just be to stick with the standard ). With power on the relay coil on pins 85&86, check the resistance on pins # 30 & # 87 again, now you should have a number close to zero for resistance.
If the resistance is high or did not change in this step the relay is bad. High resistance would show that the contacts in the relay are discolored, and this is a problem.
If you are getting power ( light blue w/ back stripe I think ? ) the accessory delay relay is fine, and the wiring into the door is fine ( A pillar area ).
Question #3
If you want to pull the door panel ( Muth Co directions if you saw those ) and apply power, I used an extra battery I had. If you do not have this, a DC adapter cord with the accessory end cut off will work. Try to find one with a larger AWG wire on it, some times auto stores have extensions that seem to have 16 AWG wire on them. Cut off the socket end, or the DC plug and strip it back a little. This will make a quick wire end to test direct to the window with.
Running a wire from the battery works also, just make sure to use at least 16 AWG wire ( 14 would be better for this length ). I think the test leads I sued were 16 AWG, but they were ~ 18" long each with alligator clips on them.
Question #4
The dome lamp could be a few things. The Battery Saver relay or the interior lamp relay, or the door switch. This is one thing to keep in mind as we get into the problem, but this is a different circuit then the accessory delay relay.
The accessory delay relay is Relay #5 in the passenger compartment fuse panel. Shown on page 138 of your owners manual.
Question #5 :
The BJB / engine compartment fuse panel should be on the driver's side for a 1998 MY truck.
In this picture, it still has the cover on it
BTW the one with the cover off is the Minifuse panel, and in the 1998 owners manual, they forgot to include this little detail. Ford's editing department didn't do so well here. Right click save as this jpeg, and print it out for sliding into your owners manual.
Question #6 :
You should be able to get the directions for door panel removal from Muth Co. Fill in the truck info on this page, and download the PDF for the mirror install.
http://www.muthco.com/products/carsandtrucks.htm
This should be your directions ( right click save as )
http://www.muthco.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000013.pdf
Check the motor directly, to see if they work. You know the accessory delay fuse and relay are good, as you said the switch had power to it in #3.
Good luck, let us know what the test results are for the motors.
Last edited by SSCULLY; Dec 29, 2008 at 08:30 AM.
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Thanks
I will try the suggestion that you made, sorry it has taken me so long to reply. I have been working a lot and in today's economy that is a good thing.
I have noticed that my dome light will come on when the passenger door is open, but once it is closed the lights go off. The dome light will not come on when the driver door is opened or closed.
Occasionally the panel will tell me that there is a door ajar then it will kick off an the automatic door lock engage. The Theft light will also come on and the horn honks until I insert the key and turn, this has happened on the passenger side after I have opened the driver door and a friend try's to open the passenger door. Weird. Other than these things I am very pleased with my "new" truck.
Vondo
I have noticed that my dome light will come on when the passenger door is open, but once it is closed the lights go off. The dome light will not come on when the driver door is opened or closed.
Occasionally the panel will tell me that there is a door ajar then it will kick off an the automatic door lock engage. The Theft light will also come on and the horn honks until I insert the key and turn, this has happened on the passenger side after I have opened the driver door and a friend try's to open the passenger door. Weird. Other than these things I am very pleased with my "new" truck.
Vondo
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
vondo2,
No problem in taking so long, it is on your schedule to get it fixed, my truck is OK, so how long it takes you to reply is fine with me.
Dome light not working on teh driver's side could be a broken wire in the loom from the door to the A-pillar, or it could be the door switch, which is in the door latch itself.
Take a look at the WD-40 directions in this thread ( I know it says open when it is closed, but the switch could have the other problem, or just be bad. WD-40 is something cheap to try before we go hunting for a broken wire.
The horn honking sounds like the factory PERIMETER ALARM SYSTEM that was offered in 1998. Take a look at page 40 in your owners manual, to see if this is what you have.
The theft light should be part of that, the PATS was not offered until 1999 with the introduction of PATS, which also has the theft light associated with it.
No problem in taking so long, it is on your schedule to get it fixed, my truck is OK, so how long it takes you to reply is fine with me.
Dome light not working on teh driver's side could be a broken wire in the loom from the door to the A-pillar, or it could be the door switch, which is in the door latch itself.
Take a look at the WD-40 directions in this thread ( I know it says open when it is closed, but the switch could have the other problem, or just be bad. WD-40 is something cheap to try before we go hunting for a broken wire.
The horn honking sounds like the factory PERIMETER ALARM SYSTEM that was offered in 1998. Take a look at page 40 in your owners manual, to see if this is what you have.
The theft light should be part of that, the PATS was not offered until 1999 with the introduction of PATS, which also has the theft light associated with it.