So both my windows on my 97 one day decided they didn't want to roll back up after rolling them down. I managed to put direct current to the windows to get them back up. So both motors work great. I read on here and a few said it would be the switches on the driver sides. I replaced the whole wiring and switches from a doner car and I still have the same issue. Like the power is not getting up there. I use to be able to hear a clicking sound when hitting the window buttons but now nothing.

Before the windows woulnd't go up, I admired how well the windows still go up. I hit the button up and down a few times and then when I got home they wouldn't go up. Both driver and passenger.

The big 30fuse is not blown. I checked both 14/15 fuse in the cabin they are fine too.

Both door locks and power mirror work.

Anything else I can check or need to look at now?
Suggestions?

Thanks.

 

have you checked for power at the master switch? i would be checking the ground to master switch. for both to fail at the same time thats the only common link, except for the fuses (which you say are ok)

 

Master switch....you talking about taking the door panel off and checking the power wire to the drive side switch right?

Where is the ground wire located on the frame, I mean grounded at?

I saw the 2 big ground wires came together and then lead somewhere but where are they grounded on the frame ect?

Still weird how the ground would all of a sutton come loose or be bad within say 1 hour from having full power to nothing at all.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check back and see if you posted back where the ground leads and where it's grounded at.

Thanks,

 

yes, take the panel off and check for power to the master switch. the main ground to the entire door is good because you say the power mirrors and locks work. specifically, i would be checking for power and ground at the master switch.

by any chance do the LEDs in the light switchs come on? this would definitely indicate that the switch is not getting power/grounded. (the reason the passenger wont work from the passenger is because its powered through the master one.)

i would check the fuses again, and really make sure that they are not blown.

if all this fails then i would start from each door motor and trace the wires all the way to the fuse panel. take the master switch out and check to see if when the buttons are pressed that the switch is completing the circuit. it is definitely going to be a very time consuming job.

good luck.

 

the power mirrors and power locks work. All the switches light up even the power windows on both sides. Just nothing happens when you press the button.

I replaced the harness and the switches/buttons from a donar car. I guess they could have been bad as well.

I know the motors are good because I used direct power to put the windows up.

I use to be able to hear a relay type clicking sound coming from down by the fuse panel, I no longer hear that. That is why I asked if there was a relay.

I'll check the fuses again.....the big 30 fuse I replaced because I thought maybe the fuse was bad....the little 14/15 in the cabin, they were fine, but I'll try to replace them as well.

Any other thoughts?

 

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

from the manual on there the relay is the one touch down relay (only for the drive door)

so know that youve said the switch has power and it still isnt working im going to suggest to you again to take the switch out and see if when the buttons are pressed that the switch completes the circuit.
if the switch completes the circuit then you have broken wires somewhere (most likely in the door jamb).
if the switch is not working you can either dive deeper into it and see if you can figure it out, or go and buy a new switch.

 

Sorry for jumping in late here :
1. I don't see where power was verified at the switch ( see the note that it should be tested, but no results ).
2. The clicking under the dash could be the OTD relay, or the accessory delay relay. ( checking for power in the key on position would tell if the Accy Delay relay is working ).
3. The window down for the driver's side is processed by the GEM, for either down or OTD functions.( Tan w/ light blue stripe = window down, Gray = OTD from switch to GEM ).
to test the wiring harness short the light blue w/ black stripe wire ( switch connector pin # 4 ) to the Tan w/ light blue stripe wire ( switch connector # 1 ), with ground on the white w/ black stripe ( switch connector pin # 2 ). The window should go down. If not, there is a problem with the wiring or the GEM.

to test the passenger side wiring;
short the light blue w/ black wire ( switch connector pin # 4) to the white w/ yellow stripe wire ( switch connector pin # 1 on the pass window switch ), while ground is on the Tan w/ light blue ( switch connector pin #2 on the pass window switch ), the window should go down. If not, there is a problem with the wiring, if you did verify power is on the light blue w/ black wire ( pin #4 ) and ground is on the black wire ( pin # 5 ).

 

ive been waitng for you to jump in with the exact wire colours and what they do