What do I do now?
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What do I do now?
I have been trying to figure out what is wrong with my truck. It is a 1990 f150 300 TFI EEC4 manual 4X4.
I have been reading these forums for the past couple weeks, and several threads talk about similar issues. "Truck stall while driving, won't restart" ect., all seem to do with the TFI ICM. I have replaced all the ignition components I know of, the e-coil, dist cap, rotor, wires, ICM, hall effects stator sensor, fuel filter. The plugs are newish about 5000 miles, I will replace next just to cover my bases, but they look good mostly clean but a bit tanned.
After I replaced the ICM and the hall effects sensor it ran great, I timed it, went fishing (120 mile trip) with little issue (the motor had a bit of ping to it under load on hills). I will admit to screwing with the timing on the side of the road on the way back (bad choice), I was worried about the pinging burning a valve or what ever pinging does.
I am now happy as a clam at high tide. So I decide to go fishing this morning hook up the boat, drive about 4 miles it starts acting like it is out of gas and dies, I switch tanks (I should have 1.5 gallons in the front tank) and nothing. I try to rest on the side of the road, nothing. I put 2 gallons in the rear tank nothing. I can hear both fuel pumps prime, I don't have a fuel pressure gage but when you push the test valve after it is primed it sprays good. I tested all the ignition system parts I could by my self, all check out fine. I am getting spark, I think I am getting fuel, just to cover my bases I squirted a good bit of fuel into the intake, of course, nothing. The self test codes do not show anything special, but I did disconnect the battery witch will erase certain code storage. Oh yeah all the fuses are good as well.
Regardless of how many beers I drink while I stare at it it is still not fixing it's self. I did find a cooked relay (there is 2) or something and have yet to track down where it goes, but it does not seem to be a fuel pump relay, both fuel pumps still work with out it installed and it had no continuity anyway. The relay (or so I am calling it for now for lake of a better name) is a little red box about is 1.75" x .62" x 1" has 2 spayed connector inputs and 1 out. It was located directly under the drivers floor board, on the frame rail. But it still does not start perfectly with out it. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
It is a bad day of fishing when you don't get to the water, there just ain't no fish on the road!
Also if someone know where to get a pin voltage chart that would be very helpful, "Haynes" color codes are wrong. That makes diagnostic a really big pain.
Thank you,
Stan
I have been reading these forums for the past couple weeks, and several threads talk about similar issues. "Truck stall while driving, won't restart" ect., all seem to do with the TFI ICM. I have replaced all the ignition components I know of, the e-coil, dist cap, rotor, wires, ICM, hall effects stator sensor, fuel filter. The plugs are newish about 5000 miles, I will replace next just to cover my bases, but they look good mostly clean but a bit tanned.
After I replaced the ICM and the hall effects sensor it ran great, I timed it, went fishing (120 mile trip) with little issue (the motor had a bit of ping to it under load on hills). I will admit to screwing with the timing on the side of the road on the way back (bad choice), I was worried about the pinging burning a valve or what ever pinging does.
I am now happy as a clam at high tide. So I decide to go fishing this morning hook up the boat, drive about 4 miles it starts acting like it is out of gas and dies, I switch tanks (I should have 1.5 gallons in the front tank) and nothing. I try to rest on the side of the road, nothing. I put 2 gallons in the rear tank nothing. I can hear both fuel pumps prime, I don't have a fuel pressure gage but when you push the test valve after it is primed it sprays good. I tested all the ignition system parts I could by my self, all check out fine. I am getting spark, I think I am getting fuel, just to cover my bases I squirted a good bit of fuel into the intake, of course, nothing. The self test codes do not show anything special, but I did disconnect the battery witch will erase certain code storage. Oh yeah all the fuses are good as well.
Regardless of how many beers I drink while I stare at it it is still not fixing it's self. I did find a cooked relay (there is 2) or something and have yet to track down where it goes, but it does not seem to be a fuel pump relay, both fuel pumps still work with out it installed and it had no continuity anyway. The relay (or so I am calling it for now for lake of a better name) is a little red box about is 1.75" x .62" x 1" has 2 spayed connector inputs and 1 out. It was located directly under the drivers floor board, on the frame rail. But it still does not start perfectly with out it. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
It is a bad day of fishing when you don't get to the water, there just ain't no fish on the road!
Also if someone know where to get a pin voltage chart that would be very helpful, "Haynes" color codes are wrong. That makes diagnostic a really big pain.
Thank you,
Stan
Last edited by welder man stan; Sep 7, 2008 at 01:32 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 199
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From: Northwest Florida
my father inlaw has one the did that it would buck ike an old bronco and sometimes not want start then one day it quit all together.so he had it plugged up to a scanner and it couldn't connect with the compter so he had to order a computer. took 2weeks to get and about 300 bucks but she purrs like akitten. hope this helps
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Krazzyballer
Look at your ICM. If they don't dissipate the heat fast enough, they shut down. After I replaced mine it ran like a top for a few days now I don't know WTF. The ICM test good but it might be a POS, happens I guess.
MSG makes a good after market. I need to go through the voltage pin chart and check my comp. Will be a pain in the ***. better than condemning the comp if that is not what is wrong tho. I am really tired of working on the truck, but too broke to take it in. That is life tho and it is a good learning exp. I have a friend coming over tomorrow, that is a lot better skilled at diagnostic, I can change the parts but I hate the diagnostics, when I don't have all the info I need to check stuff. I guess tonight I'll just drink more beer and stare at the computer (in the house) and hope the truck fixes it's self.
Look at your ICM. If they don't dissipate the heat fast enough, they shut down. After I replaced mine it ran like a top for a few days now I don't know WTF. The ICM test good but it might be a POS, happens I guess.
MSG makes a good after market. I need to go through the voltage pin chart and check my comp. Will be a pain in the ***. better than condemning the comp if that is not what is wrong tho. I am really tired of working on the truck, but too broke to take it in. That is life tho and it is a good learning exp. I have a friend coming over tomorrow, that is a lot better skilled at diagnostic, I can change the parts but I hate the diagnostics, when I don't have all the info I need to check stuff. I guess tonight I'll just drink more beer and stare at the computer (in the house) and hope the truck fixes it's self.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Hiawatha Ks.
It is possible that it might be the injectors plugged. A lot of the old 300 6's had this problem after a lot of miles. I have had to replace all the injectors before. Also check that both fuel pumps are not running at the same time. If they are there is a problem with the switching valve. Ford did have some problems with the valve sending fuel to the other tank and filling it off of the other. The other thing you might check is the fuel pressure. The 6 cylinders had 65psi. This is a lot higher than the V8's. The V8 ran about 35psi.
Last edited by Milton Long; Sep 11, 2008 at 12:32 AM.