I noticed a few days ago I have condensation in the pass side driving light. I thought I will dry it out today but upon further inspection, I found that the housing is melting around the bulb. I put Nokya "arctic white" halogen bulbs in almost a year ago. I was comparing wattages from stock (42w?) to Nokya (55w). The packaging also says 7000K. Are the bulbs too much for the housing? What could be a safe wattage for the housings (halogen bulb)? Also, I am using the H10 bulb. Should I switch to the "cosmic white" since it runs @ 5000K, or isn't this a Kelvin issue but a wattage issue? Both housing are melted the same BTW.

 

Sounds like your aftermarket bulbs bit you - two ways. This is a bit unusual with the larger 2004-05 housings, but that doesn't help you much. Your're almost certainly going to need to replace both housings since they're now distorted. (That's how moisture got in on the one side.)

Although I haven't heard of problems with your particular aftermarket bulb, you now have enough evidence to say they caused the problem. I've had the 9005 Siverstar Ultras in mine for 3 years now with no problems at all - if that helps.

 

I don't think I will have to replace them. They both have tiny pin holes at the top of the bulb. Mostly a little scorching on top and bottom. I may try one of those plastic welding kit things since the hole is tiny. Has anyone used a plastic weld kit?

 

wont a plastic welder discolor the plastic?

the K (as in 7000K) rating is probably only for color comparison to HIDs. so lowering the K rating would just change the color. id stay within the wattage of the stock bulb (thought that was 55w).

 

Those bulbs will reak havoc on your electrical system and headlights sooner or later. I would remove them ASAP. Go get some Silverstars or go for the HID upgrade.

X2 on replacing the housing. Its going to keep getting water in it no matter what you do.

 

A little fyi...the Kelvin has nothing to do with bulb temp. Nothing at all. That is color temp.

I'm not even sure the wattage draw even matters. What probably matters is the H10 bulb. If that is not the factory bulb configuration, well, there's your problem.

 

just to further clarify,

kelvin is the colour temperaure, the higher the kevlin the more "blue" the light appears and the hotter it is. (this is what melted your housing)

the wattage is how much the bulb pulls from your electrical system. the wattage of a bulb will not melt your housing, but rather your harness's and the wires running to it.

what you are looking for is a higher lumen bulb, the higher the lumen output the brighter the bulb.

 

Ok, can I get the Hella Optilux H10/9145 Bulb, 12V, 45W Optilux Xenon XP for $38? Found them here - http://www.rallylights.com/hella/H10.asp . I have dealt with the company when my Ranger Hella stock driving lights broke. Plus, they are in my state. I really don't like Silverstars and HIDs as of yet.