20Amp from battery and 3 amp from head lamp switch to power switch
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Confused now - to quote SSCULLY from earlier in this thread:
"If you install an inline fuse to your tap close to the unused connector for the traction control, with a 1A fuse you should be OK. Any problems with the circuit should take out the smaller fuse first ( 1A ), and the load from the coil on the relay is very small ( 0.02 A )" SSCULLY - does this mean that the positive switched supply (no matter where I pull it from) would only need a 1A inline fuse close to the tap? Thanks for everyones patience with me on this - I can go and wire the dang lights with all this info but trying to learn as I go so I don't have to ask the same questions again. So THANK YOU!!! |
I used a 2O amp on the lead coming off the battery and a 3 amp fuse on the line coming off the switch to the brown wire on the headlight switch sorry for the confusion. this is the set up I used and worked great.
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Originally Posted by jbholmes
..<snip>...SSCULLY - does this mean that the positive switched supply (no matter where I pull it from) would only need a 1A inline fuse close to the tap?..<snip>...
Give it a try with the smallest fuse you have, and see if your relay is OK. Over time the relay might need a bit more power for pull in, but we are talking 0.2A to 0.5 A, still well under the 80% fusing rule. A 3A fuse is not going to hurt anything, I just fuse items as close to 80% of load as I can. So if the fuse is 3A, the max load would be 2.4 A, which is way over what a relay coil needs. 1A fuse @ 80% = 0.8A load. 1A vs 3A normal operation no difference, and if everything works the way it should ( which chances are it will for a long time ), you will be fine. The fuse to the coil on the relay, you are protecting for a short to ground really. There should never be a case of the coil overheating and drawing too much power. The coil is going to work or not, is what I have seen in 30 years. |
well how is the install going?
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That is exactly correct. I will post a schematic for everyone that i made up for an optional 2nd mode. ie: you can wire to turn on the lights with the high beams automatically with the option to turn them off and keep high beams on as well as be able to turn them on anytime the parking lamps are on, without the concern of shorting or backfeeding.
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I started a new thread with a schematic of the method i talked about.
Wes |
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