The stupid thing keeps blowing and I can't figure it out for the life of me. I've had e-fans in for at least a year now and all the sudden out of the blue my ac clutch fuse blows in the power distribution box. No problem, I think to myself, I'll just replace it. 3 fuses later and I've only managed to raise my blood pressure. The fuse doesn't seem to blow until I start moving. They're fuses from Advance so maybe they're poor quality? I have no idea, any help would be great.

By the way, 2002 SCrew Lariat w/ 5.4L. Thanks again.

 

Sounds like your clutch is bad if it keeps blowing the fuses.

 

It's either that or you have a wiring harness that's intermittently grounding out.

Other thought....did you wire up the e-fans to the A/C clutch circuit (a common practice)? If so, that could be your issue, that is, the e-fans are pulling too much current and blowing the fuse or the wiring harness to the e-fans is shorting out.

Steve

 

Yeah, I wired the e-fans to the AC clutch relay and was thinking that might have something to do with it, but they have been working fine for over a year. The fuse doesn't blow when the truck is in park, and the compressor turns on and blows cold air, but almost the second the truck starts moving the fuse blows and I lose cold air (the fan still blows weird smelling ambient temp air). How should I test for the possible problems?

 

Inspect the e-fan harness first.

Measure efan current draw to see how much they're pulling. The clutch coil should pull around 4 amps when the clutch engages, so check it also.

Steve

 

I tried but my tape measure doesn't have "current draw" on it. Seriously though, what tool would I use to measure the draw? Also, the fan that is not hooked up to the AC works perfectly and the AC fan works when the new fuse is not yet blown. Could it still be the e-fans drawing too much current?

My battery died recently so I replaced it with another motorcraft battery that has I think 100 more cranking amps than the old one about 2 months ago. I can't imagine that all the sudden it would start blowing fuses since it's worked perfectly for close to 2 months.

 

The signal wire for the AC to the E-Fans should draw about 0.1 Amps.

One thing to try is to disconnect the E-fan controller from the AC clutch circuit, and see if you still get a blown fuse. I don't know why park to drive is where they are having problems, the only thing I can think of is the WOT relay ( think is is a relay, could be a PCM signal...dredging up from the back of my mind right now ), which you should not be getting to shifting into drive.

Try to disconnect the E-Fan controller and see what happens ( after replacing the fuse )

 

It's not so much the shift that seems to do it, but more the moving. If I'm in drive but stopped I'm pretty sure it still works. I'm just totally confused about how it just decided not to work anymore. I will try disconnecting the controller to see if that's it though.