I seem to have pulled off a capacitor on the Circuit board of my PCM. Anybody know of a shop that repairs PCMs? I am using a back up with the PATS disabled with a chip.

JMC

 

Can't you find the same side Cap, and solder it on ?
Find the same size microF cap, and hopefully you can get the polarity from the other one you have.

Think that would be fairly easy if you use a low heat iron ( 25W ) to do it.

I am guessing that you already asked Mike T about this, so that must be a none starter.

 

Saturday I went to a local TV repair shop and they could not help. I don't think the guy was interested in researching a 50¢ part. I started looking on the net yesterday to see if I could find one but I'm not sure of the ratings. Here is a pic If that helps.


JMC

 

Looks like 47uF, 10v electrolytic.

Replace it with a good quality Tantalum cap .

I know yer a handy fella ( to say the least lol), so this would present no challenge to you.

If you can't source one locally, you can try DigiKey, or Active Electornics

Or I can drop one in an envelope & mail it to ya.

Just don't let Neal near this - if he burns himself with dat soldering pencil, he's liable to pitch that PCM at the nearest wall

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the info and offer to mail the part. I will go back to the TV shop and get a 47uF 10v capacitor and solder it on myself. I imagine any kind will do. There is know way of telling the polarity on the old part so what happens if I mix them up?

FWIW: the instrument cluster shows a different mileage using the backup PCM but it still works. The only problem is the lack of PATS and the flashing theft light.

Oh, and Neal is at work so the coast is clear. I shouldn't pick on him, after all he is lending me his 42 lbs injectors, Lightning MAF and 75mm throttle body.

JMC

 

JMC - that part in your pic - the black mark on the can usually indicates the '-' lead.

Here's a sample data sheet:

http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-...BA0000CE88.pdf

If the silkscreen on the PCM circuit board does not have a corresponding index image or similar, then you can try using an ohmmeter to probe each side to ground ( PCM unpowered of course.) The pad that indicates a solid 0 ohms will be the negative side. This cap is almost certainly a 5-volt supply rail decoupler , so this test should hold. Best to check this.

Buy the best quality part you can - that's why I suggested a tantalum type - looks like a shiny little apple pit usually blue, but can be any colour. Usually has a '+' or a dot mark to indicate the positive lead. You can use a higher voltage rating cap if you can't find a 10v unit.

Go easy with the heat - tin the leads first ( sorry - I bet you know all that lol)

About Neal - I was just funnin'. I happen to like the guy (even though I think he don't like me much). He's entertaining as hell, and the real deal.

Good luck.

bubba

 

Found another TV shop and the guy seemed to know what he was talking about. He told me that the black end was the - side. He has a similar one in his hand but I cannot use it because of the chip on the other side, I cannot solder it back onto the board. I now have a 50v 47uF that I will solder in.

Again thanks for all the help.

JMC

 

Well it is up and running now. Here is a pic of where the little bugger goes.



I had to remove the old base to expose the circuit board.



No, I didn't leave it like that. I insulated the leads with duct tape and bent them back where they would be out of the way of the chip.

JMC

 

Beauty, JMC.

Yeah the original was a surface mount - like in that data sheet.

Good job

bubba

 

You got me, I spit coffee out my nose with that one. Think I might have pee'd a little bit also