Truck not cranking, theft light blinking
Truck not cranking, theft light blinking
I have a 02 f-150 with the 5.4. I was driving home today and all of a sudden my truck killed. I thought I had felt one hesitation before but ignored it. Now the truck turns over but won't start. The theft light blinks with the key turned on and most of my dash lights are on (4x4, low range, overdrive off, low oil, check engine, etc). Odometer reads ---------- When I try and start it the other lights go off but the theft light blinks. I am trying to disconnect my battery for awhile to see if that will help. I have tried 2 different keys with no success. I checked the # 30 fuse that controls the PATS but it was fine. My truck is stranded on the side of the road, so I really only have one shot in the morning to check a few things before I get it towed. Thanks
I'm no expert on this but I have suggestions.
It sounds like you not getting any gas if the truck just shut off and the reason it won't start again is because it's not getting any gas.
The hesitation you felt before it died is probably because it was trying to find gas to suck back.
I would suggest checking the fuel pump shut off (in the passenger kick panel) and reset it.
The theft like alway blinks when the truck is sitting idle, and will continue to blink until it's running.
And if the problem is related to the PATS I don't think it would even turn over for you.
If a fuse is blown the truck will start but will not shift out of park, so since yours won't crank I don't think thats the problem, but I will suggest checking all the fuses, in the cab and engine.
And if you have time in the morning, check the owners manual for reasons why it won't start and solutions, it will probably list the fuel reset procedure.
Lemme know if I'm right on the situation or not.
Good Luck!
It sounds like you not getting any gas if the truck just shut off and the reason it won't start again is because it's not getting any gas.
The hesitation you felt before it died is probably because it was trying to find gas to suck back.
I would suggest checking the fuel pump shut off (in the passenger kick panel) and reset it.
The theft like alway blinks when the truck is sitting idle, and will continue to blink until it's running.
And if the problem is related to the PATS I don't think it would even turn over for you.
If a fuse is blown the truck will start but will not shift out of park, so since yours won't crank I don't think thats the problem, but I will suggest checking all the fuses, in the cab and engine.
And if you have time in the morning, check the owners manual for reasons why it won't start and solutions, it will probably list the fuel reset procedure.
Lemme know if I'm right on the situation or not.
Good Luck!
Forgot to mention that I did check the emergency fuel shut off switch but it was not tripped. I checked the fuses this morning and number 18 in the engine compartment was blown. I replaced it and it kept blowing. I put a heavier fuse in it then #2 in the engine compartment blew. Both of these deal with the PCM. The Ford dealership said it might be a short somewhere that is causing the fuses to blow.
Last edited by Precglide; Apr 7, 2007 at 10:11 AM.
Fuse 18 and 2 are in series with relay contacts between them.
Either the lead to the PCM has a short or the PCM is bad.
After the fault is found, replace the relay as you may have burned it's contacts with the larger fuse.
The lead goes to PCM connector pins 37 and 71 as a solid red lead.
There are no other branches on this circuit.
If you are going futher with this, remove the connector off the PCM and retest for a short with an ohm-meter to ground and the fuses out.
Either it clears making the PCM bad or it is still there making it a grounded lead.
This will certainly stop the motor in it's tracks instantly.
No power- no run.
The PATS may blink an abnormal because it has lost comunicatioins with the PCM but is only a reaction to the fuse blowing fault..
Good luck.
Either the lead to the PCM has a short or the PCM is bad.
After the fault is found, replace the relay as you may have burned it's contacts with the larger fuse.
The lead goes to PCM connector pins 37 and 71 as a solid red lead.
There are no other branches on this circuit.
If you are going futher with this, remove the connector off the PCM and retest for a short with an ohm-meter to ground and the fuses out.
Either it clears making the PCM bad or it is still there making it a grounded lead.
This will certainly stop the motor in it's tracks instantly.
No power- no run.
The PATS may blink an abnormal because it has lost comunicatioins with the PCM but is only a reaction to the fuse blowing fault..
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; Apr 8, 2007 at 01:10 AM.
The dealership called me back and said that the fuel pump was bad. They said that is what was blowing the fuses. They quoted me about $1,000 to fix it. Does that seems high? Any clue on how much a OEM fuel pump assembly costs? Thanks
My position would be that they better, for that cost, be sure that is the problem.
The tank has to be emptied, taken down, cost of the pump and the labor rate to do all this.
At the moment I have a problem with this because the fuel pump is controlled thru it's own relay and power thru fuse 10. The PCM only supplies a ground to operate the fuel pump relay.
Unless there is something else, I am not sure the pump is the problem.
Ask them about this and see what they say.
At the least, pull either the pump fuse and/or the pump relay to see if the short is still there.
Funny things happen at times, that becomes miss leading.
Let us know how it goes and good luck.
The tank has to be emptied, taken down, cost of the pump and the labor rate to do all this.
At the moment I have a problem with this because the fuel pump is controlled thru it's own relay and power thru fuse 10. The PCM only supplies a ground to operate the fuel pump relay.
Unless there is something else, I am not sure the pump is the problem.
Ask them about this and see what they say.
At the least, pull either the pump fuse and/or the pump relay to see if the short is still there.
Funny things happen at times, that becomes miss leading.
Let us know how it goes and good luck.
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I would try this first before the dealership starts messing with it. Mine did that also. I worked at a dealership for many years and saw this a couple of times including my own 2001 f150. The key somehow magicaly deprograms itself. When you have a cut key, you need to program it to your vehicle; if you don't, your truck will not start. It will turn over but not start. Mine had nothing to do with the fuel pump. Give it a try, it worked on mine! If you have multiple keys that were programed to work you can follow the steps in the OM to program additional keys (to reprogram the key that doest work)


