Rosin Core ...Right?
Rosin Core ...Right?
Rosin Core ... Right?
Drawing a blank on this , well , - Totally out of solder and I can't remember the last time I myself needed to purchase, some.
Theirs always solder around ... somewhere
I need to repair harness wires later today.
The correct solder is Rosin Core , right? The RMA stuff Not the lead free or Acid core
Anyone use Flux ? You guys still follow up w/heat shrink these days?
I definitely want to be confident it's done right. My most important concern is the coreect solder type, "Rosin Core" - something mildly - active (RMA) solder..
Thanks ,
Jim
Drawing a blank on this , well , - Totally out of solder and I can't remember the last time I myself needed to purchase, some.
Theirs always solder around ... somewhere
I need to repair harness wires later today.
The correct solder is Rosin Core , right? The RMA stuff Not the lead free or Acid core
Anyone use Flux ? You guys still follow up w/heat shrink these days?
I definitely want to be confident it's done right. My most important concern is the coreect solder type, "Rosin Core" - something mildly - active (RMA) solder..
Thanks ,
Jim
Last edited by jbrew; Mar 4, 2007 at 04:55 AM.
Rosin-core is best for electronics, but it only works right on clean copper. Acid is for dirty metals. Lead-free indicates it's for plumbing (potable water), and that usually requires some type of flux to be applied since it has no core. Don't add flux when using rosin-core; that's what the rosin is. Adding insualtion (heat shrink, tape, etc.) is up to you, based on exactly which circuit you're working on, where it is, how you want it to look...


