gotta ask, series of beeps from the passenger side airbag area. 5 beeps per session, 4 sessions some sort of code?

 

Yes. Your airbag warning light in the dash is burned out AND there is a fault in the airbag system.

The 5 by 5 beep sequence is a backup warning of an airbag system fault.

Steve

 

Once you get a good bulb in there, it'll flash out the code for the fault. Count the flashes to form a 2-digit code that will repeat 5x (IIRC). Then search up the list of airbag codes (LFCs) to find where to start diagnosing it.

 

bah that thing is gonna get shot. the passenger airbag got disconnected when the battery was connected. but the light still works?? the yeller airbag light in the inst cluster works (irritates me daily!) and the light for the passenger bag on/off works. is there one i missed?

there is no way for me to reset the airbag warning light correct?

code thrown 4-2 / 42
Passenger side crash sensor disconnected? something like that at least

 

It "resets" every time you turn the key on, and looks for faults. If there are none, it will either do nothing, or for certain codes, flash out a memory code (the original + 40).

If it's saying that a sensor is disconnected, plug it back in or find the wiring fault.

 

could it possibly pick up a ohm load change with wire nut splices?

 

Yes. Wire nuts are NOT suitable for automotive wiring. Neither are ScotchLoks (IMO). Use crimped (butt) connectors, or solder & heat-shrink tubing (the best). Ford recommends soldering the 2 wires together side-by-side pointing the same direction with the tubing over ONE wire. When they're soldered, fold one back over the connection, then slide the tubing up & shrink it. That will give you 3 passes of wire inside the tube. Glue-lined tube is preferred for exposed repairs.

 

lmao so ur sayin my redneck quick splice tactic is probably sending the red flag from that unit?

i dont like soldering but maybe ill add some wire and do that. its pretty tight fit.

 

Steve, not to hijack, but where can you find some of the glue-filled or wax-filled shrink tube? I've been searching for weeks and not had much luck...

-Joe

 

Have you checked local electronics suppliers? Ford sells a kit to dealerships that includes a bunch of pieces, but IIRC, it's close to $200. You can get away without it - I just said it's preferred. If you can't find it, but insist on having it, just get some tiny hot-glue sticks & wipe one over the solder joint before it cools, then slide the tube up.

 

check ur fuses too...