I just put a Ford Bronze Remote Starter in my 2001 F-150 today. I followed the instructions as laid out in the Ford CD. Spent most of the day on this project and double checked connections as I went. I also used a T harness to minimize the hacking to my factory harness.

Good news is the truck still starts and runs with the keys. Bad news is it won't start with the remote fob. If I press the start key once I get the parking lights to flash once pressing the start key twice causes the parking lights to flash a total of five times and nothing else after that. I didn't install the hood switch. Checked it with a meter and it looks to be open when the hood is in the closed position, so I figured it didn't matter.

I followed the instructions for programming the securilock system but it doesn't seem to work. When I bought my truck I had the dealer make a third key. Today I noticed that only one of my keys has a Ford logo while the other two do not. So, I would suspect that there have been four keys programmed at sometime for this truck. There was a note in the instructions that said there may be a problem if more than two keys have been programmed. I watched the dealer program the new key and he did it out in the parking lot similar to what the securilock instructions had said.

The troubleshooting section in the instructions is not that detailed. I'm pretty certain the wiring is correct. Other than verifying all signals, wiring and then replacing things I was hoping someone who puts a lot of these things in could help me out.

Thanks!!

 

Few ( dumb ?) questions.

Q1. When you say you did not install the hood switch, what did you do with this lead ?
1.1. I am trying to find Travi's thread, I thought this was to be groudned, if not installed, but I very well could be WRONG on that.

Q2. Are you pressing the lock button on the fob, prior to pressing the start ( blue key button ) ?
2.1. This is the procedure for the silver version, I am not sure about the bronze ( don't have a copy of them handy ).

Q3. Which PATS bypass module did you get ?
3.1. IS this the 1L3Z or the PKF1 one

Those are the things that I can think of off the top of my head.

If you run a search in this forum for the term remote start* quite a few threads ( 500 threads + ) will come up.

I don't know if this is a procedure problem, or if the Tach is not learned correctly. The trouble shooting guide from Gemsen does not have this as one of the items on the list.

Let us know, and take a search, see if any thing looks familiar.

 

A1. I left the lead floating. When I checked the switch with my meter is was open when the hood would be closed and shorted when the hood opened. I thought leaving it unhooked would just eliminate that input.

A2. The fob that comes with the bronze system only has 2 buttons. One for the start and the other for a panic. Instructions don't mention anything about pushing another button before pushing the start button.

I have the 1L3Z bypass module.


A3. I did quite a bit of reading before starting this job. I have the wiring diagram book for this truck from Ford and used it to make certain connections were right.

A4. Since the truck isn't even attempting to start I don't think the tach lead is an issue at this point.

I'll do some more searching. Thanks.

 

Sound like you didn't go into the installer menu and setup right...

Set POS and NEG inputs

Also it needs to learn a Tach signal in this menu, if not, is not going to learn correctly and will not start without it being learned

IIRC, 5 light flashes is no tach signal learned

 

Thanks, I'll go over the programming section again and see if I can find what I missed.

Can you point me towards the list that tells what the light flashes mean??

I thought I had read the instructions over pretty good??? I'll keep you all posted as to what I find.

 

I read over the programming instructions again and much more thoroughly than before!! Went out and tried the programming procedure. After some initial struggling I successfully entered the Option Banks and then was able to select the options. Since I hadn't wired the horn I listened for the relay clicks from the control box.

After the system learned the tach signal I was able to program the securilock. Remote start now works as expected.

This job can not be done without the manual. And if you don't pay close attention to the details (like me) about the programming then you'll still have trouble.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.