Hey all!!

I just bought a high milage -98 4x4 for the winter... realized on my way home the CC won't even light up... am assuming there is a 'on' light before you select 'set.?

Looked in the manual and there is no fuse listed? Did a search on here and the one result seemed high tech...??

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

Does not work, or no light on the dash ? Those are 2 different things.

Raoul pointed out his '99 does not have the CC light on the dash, that did not start until '00 or '01. ( I had someone tearing into his '98 to find a light that is not there, as I had one on my '01 ). With the '99 no having a light, and I seem to recall a post that the '98 and '97 did not have one either, don't expect a light.
Read your owners manual, on the instrument cluster section, to see if a CC icon is on the dash ( I am not expecting it to be there ).

Set the CC, and see if it works, as in actually works ( keeps the truck at speed ).

Also, might want to read the fuse section again in your owners manual :
Central Junction box, Fuse #5 is for the CC servo.

 

Thanks.

There may be no light. And if it is it doesn't light up...

The CC will not engage, light or not.

The 15A fuse #5 is intact.

What's next?

 

Does your horn work ?

The reason I ask, is this is a CC self test for newer MY Fords, I don't know if it will work on your MY truck, without the CC indicator lamp on the dash ( that is part of the test ).

You will need to see if the servo will operate once you get to that point.

If it does not produce any results, the next thing will to be to check the clock spring itself. This is why I asked if the horn works, if not, sounds like the clock spring is having a problem.
Give this a try, and see if it will get to the point of cyclign the servo, by following the directions.

 

Thanks!

No luck so far...

Horn works. There doesn't seem to be a CC light/indication...??

Did the procedure and nothing...??

What's next?

 

There is no indicator light for the cruise on the 98.

Check the cruise deactivator switch to make certain it is passing power to the cruise control module. Common failure.

Steve

 

Okay, do you have directions a pilot/firefighter could follow?

Thanks!

 

Step 1: Check the fuses: Under the hood, fuse #5 (20A), under the dash, fuse #13 (15A) and fuse #5 (15A).
Step 2: Jumper the brake pressure switch: Unplug the harness on the front of the master cylinder, and stick a short piece of wire in the wiring side to jumper the harness. Take it for a short drive to see if the system works. If it does, replace the SCDS on teh master cylinder. If it still doesn't work, we've got other places to look, but it starts to get complicated. We can go from there.

And, no, there is no light on a 98.

-Joe

 

Thanks Joe,

Will try that tomali... am out with work tonight...

I sure do hope it's one of those fuses as the rest of that procedure may be over my head...??

Thanks again will let ya'll know how it goes...

 

Okay,

checked the fuses, all good. Went to the BPS... disconected...?? It was taped over just hanging there, obviously disconected for a reason...

I took the tape off and plugged it in... works like a charm...!!

Now, why would it have been disconnected? Is there anything else I need to check to know I'm safe?

Thanks!!

 

Sounds like the truck had step one of the cruise control recall done?

"Ford vehicle cruise control fires'.
Ford recommended a disconnect until enough replacement harnesses were built for all 12 million vehicles that were affected.

It's free and dealers should have adequate supplies now.

You may have put the vehicle back at risk.

 

Indeed, in the initial stages of the recall, they were simply disconnecting the wiring and securing it out of the way pending further direction from Ford, and a supply of replacement switches. Apparently the previous owner never had phase 2 done, which was replacement of the switch and the installation of a fused jumper harness. DO NOT leave it plugged in. Should the truck catch fire because of a defective switch, Ford will say, 'Hey, you reconnected it, it's not our fault'. Unplug it, leave it secured out of the way, and take it to the dealer for the recall to be performed and noted in teh service history. It should work just fine after that.

-Joe

 

Didn't mean to steal your patient, Joe.
Sounded like he undid his recall and I didn't know how long he'd be sitting in the Waiting Room for you so I stepped in.

Typically, a '98 is an HMO anyway so let's just split the co-pay and call it a day, there's no real money to be made here.



There's a 2000 in Engines that just spit a plug - STAT!

 

I'll leave it off for now... am calling the dealer... have this thing about dealers but if it's free and needed... sigh!

And yea, she's a 'beater'... a good looking such.... new paint, all kinds of chrome etc... little would you know she's bleeding internally... 165K miles will do that to you... as a frind said; "looks like 25K and you paid less than a fifth..." there are reasons...

Dunno... HMO, DNR, gvt funded... your pick!

 

Not a problem, bud. Didn't actually read your reply before I responded... just kinda said the same thing I guess. (except I was much more wordy about it... Us blabbermouths tend to get verbal diarrhea, and just start rambling about the same old thing, over and over again and it leads to..... what was the question???)

-Joe