Crap, is my anti-theft system Activated?

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Old 10-06-2006, 12:29 AM
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Crap, is my anti-theft system Activated?

Crap, I think I've been chasing my tail. Here is the problem, My vehicle cranks great but no fire. I mean great crank, I do not really drive it around since I'm repairng it, just fire it up. But all of a sudden no fire, just crank. I noticed when I first put the key in the ignition I see this "theft" light blinking. Then when I move it to the on postion and all the instrument panels light up I get the ding ding and then the "theft" lights up but goes away after a while? How can I tell if my "anti-theft" system has been activated? Is it the first set of blinks when I first put in the key or when I move the key to the "on " postion the "Theft" light should stay on? I think this is why my vehicle wont fire. I read on one of the post, those blinks are some type of code I could use? My vehicle is an
01 f-150 supercrew 4x4 5.4L . I could use some help here. Thanks everyone.

MP
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 02:19 AM
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If the theft light goes out, the PATS has been satified, and you are now having a true crank no start.

I would think check a few things in this order.

1. Turn the key on with the window open ( you would want to go to assy position first to lower the window ), and listen to hear the fuel pump cycle. You should hear a little hum noise from about the area of the fill neck.

2. If you thing you heard it, check the schrader valve under the hood.
2.1. Put on safety glasses
2.2. Put a rag under the schrader valve.
2.3. remove the cap.
2.4. press down with a small plastic item, gas should spit out.

If not....

3. Check the fuel inertia switch in the pass side kick panel. You said you are working on the truck, maybe it got tripped ??
Press down on the button, feeling for if it drops. If nothing else press down, and try the test in #1 again.

4. Check the fuel pump relay in the fuel box under the hood. One of the factory tow package relays is the same ( battery charge ckt I think ). Swap the relay with the tow package relay and try the test in #1 again.

5. If none of the above is it, make sure you are listening for the fuel pump to run when you switch from off to run postion ( just prior to starting ).
If you don't hear it, hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet ( rubber, nothing else ) to see if the fuel pump is stuck. This might free it up.

I had a problem with my '01 at about 48K miles, and it was the fuel pump relay took a powder. Replaced it with the one from the tow package, and it worked fine. Still that way today ( obviously the new relay is in the one that I used for the fuel pump ).

Good luck, let us know what happens.
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 06:17 PM
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Does anyone have a diagram for the fuse box under the hood?

I have a 2001 f-150 suerpcrew 4x4 5.4L vehicle. Does anyone have the diagram for the fuse box under the hood.The one which tells you what fuse is for what?

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:18 PM
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http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&VEHICLE=F-150

Go to page 193 on "Owner's Guide, 4th pronting"

if the link is broke, go to www.motorcraftservice.com and navigate to owner's guides on left side of page, select your vehicle, and the info you are looking for is on page 193.
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:54 PM
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2 Others, in case that site is giving you grief.

http://www.genuineservice.com/genuin...efault?page=E4

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ -> Left hand side, Owner Guides

The PDF I have for 2001 shows the fuses in the Roadside emergencies section, starting on page 135.

Under hood fuse box ( Battery Junction Box or BJB you might see in others threads ) fuel pump relay is 301, 302 is the one I swaped with for testing ( and my specific cure ) Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay. These are listed on page 137 in the PDf I have ( don't recall which printing it is ).

BJB fuse # 18 15 A feeds the Fuel pump relay, with a few other things.

BJB Fuse # 10 20 A is the circuit that the relay closes through the relay, to run the fuel pump.

Page 130 ( in the PDF I have ) shows the Fuel Inertia switch location, and how to reset ( press down on the button ).

Don't know what step you are at, let us know how things are going.

Good Luck
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
If the theft light goes out, the PATS has been satified, and you are now having a true crank no start.

I would think check a few things in this order.

1. Turn the key on with the window open ( you would want to go to assy position first to lower the window ), and listen to hear the fuel pump cycle. You should hear a little hum noise from about the area of the fill neck.

2. If you thing you heard it, check the schrader valve under the hood.
2.1. Put on safety glasses
2.2. Put a rag under the schrader valve.
2.3. remove the cap.
2.4. press down with a small plastic item, gas should spit out.

If not....

3. Check the fuel inertia switch in the pass side kick panel. You said you are working on the truck, maybe it got tripped ??
Press down on the button, feeling for if it drops. If nothing else press down, and try the test in #1 again.

4. Check the fuel pump relay in the fuel box under the hood. One of the factory tow package relays is the same ( battery charge ckt I think ). Swap the relay with the tow package relay and try the test in #1 again.

5. If none of the above is it, make sure you are listening for the fuel pump to run when you switch from off to run postion ( just prior to starting ).
If you don't hear it, hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet ( rubber, nothing else ) to see if the fuel pump is stuck. This might free it up.

I had a problem with my '01 at about 48K miles, and it was the fuel pump relay took a powder. Replaced it with the one from the tow package, and it worked fine. Still that way today ( obviously the new relay is in the one that I used for the fuel pump ).

Good luck, let us know what happens.
Well I checked the Inertia switch and it was down, I went check the fuel pump relay and was going to switch the relays but I do not have a switch for the tow package in the fuse box, is there anyway I can test the fuel pump relay with the meter? Thanks for your help
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:05 PM
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Found it finally

Sorry it took so long, work got in the way.

Here is the thread that I posted when I have similar problems indicated.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=192096

There are a few other things in there as well from the service manual.
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by satexasf150
Well I checked the Inertia switch and it was down, I went check the fuel pump relay and was going to switch the relays but I do not have a switch for the tow package in the fuse box, is there anyway I can test the fuel pump relay with the meter? Thanks for your help
Sorry cross posting.

Without Relay 302, the only other thing I could suggest to see if the Fuse #10 is feeding the fuel pump is if you have female spade crimp terminals. Crip 2 on a short section of wire, and I think the relay is marked same as a Bosch auto relay, jumper 30 to 87. This is the normally open contacts that the fuel pump relay connects, to make the fuel pump run.

The other quicky test, did you check the fuel rail by "burping" the schrader valve on the rail ?

When you turn the key on, do you hear it run ? If not, expect nothing when you hit the scrader vale with a piece of plastic ( or you fingernail ).

I hope I am spellng Schrader correctly. The tire valve stem looking thing. I want to say on the Passenger side fuel rail ?
 
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Old 10-06-2006, 11:04 PM
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Give a good try

Hey SSCULLY first let me say thank you for all the info you have given me. I tried the wire jumper from 30 to 87 and then turned the key and I could not hear the fuel pump turn on or make any noise for that matter. I'm not sure how it loud should be ,but I could not hear a thing? Here's how I did the jumper. I'm showing you the underside of the fuse since it was labeled 30 and 80 are on opposite sides of the fuse.
.
I turned the key to the on postion (engine not on) and I could not hear any fuel pump noise(I'm not sure how loud) and went ahead and thumped the tank with a rubber mallet but I heard nothing. Any thoughts

 
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Old 10-07-2006, 01:22 AM
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Did you check for fuel pressure on the rail at the schrader valve ?

I don't think you need to turn the key on, to get it with the jumper ( BTW, that was the correct way in the picture ).

If you take a meter to ground ( like the battery or fire wall ) and to pin 30 and pin 87, do you get power on either ( forget which is connected to fuse #10 ) ?

If you have power at the BJB, and the fuel pump does not run ( once you stick the jumper in, it should run ), next is tracking down the wiring to the fuel pump itself, which in a PITA, I think they are on top of the gas tank.

Let me know about power at the pins, and if you have any fuel pressure on the rail, and we can go from there.

Good luck !
 
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Old 10-07-2006, 11:08 AM
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No fuel Pressure at the schrader valve

SSCULLY. I just check the pressure at the schrader valve and nothing. got on my gogles and nothing. Even cranked it a few times. You know when I get ready to cranck the vehicle and when I first put the key in the theft light blinks is that normal?

MP
 
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Old 10-08-2006, 01:33 AM
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Ok, no fuel pressure, that answers that the fuel pump is not running.

1. Do you have another key to try ?
1.1. I seem to recall that the theft light will do that, until it the key registers.
1.2. When you put the key in the ign, and turn it on, does it go out ?
1.2.1. This would show that the PATS is happy, or at least it should.

2. Have you taken apart anything in the cab ( seem to recall you have been working on it ) ?

3. Did you get a chance to check for voltage at pin 30 or 87 ? ( forget which )

Hope I did not skip anything.

sms
 
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Old 10-09-2006, 11:14 PM
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Right.

Your right SSCULLY, I'm putting all the wiring back togeter. But the vehicle was working fine. You know I wonder if in using the scan tool to read the codes which there were none, I used the clear funciton of the scan tool to clear of any old codes just in case that hurt somthing. But I'm putting all the wiring back together. I 'll let you know.

MP
 
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by satexasf150
Your right SSCULLY, I'm putting all the wiring back togeter. But the vehicle was working fine. You know I wonder if in using the scan tool to read the codes which there were none, I used the clear funciton of the scan tool to clear of any old codes just in case that hurt somthing. But I'm putting all the wiring back together. I 'll let you know.

MP
Clearing DTCs has nothing to do with the PATS.

Check that you have put the wiring together correctly under the dash. There is a PATS transciever as part of the ign switch.

Did you get a chance to check if the theft light goes out, after you turn the key on ?

Also, did you get a chance to try another key ?
 
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:49 PM
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Ok, here's where I stand.

SSCULLY Here's what I've don.
1) checked for fuel at the schrader and there was no fuel or pressure
2) tried to jump pin 30 to 87 no fuel pump activity.
3) Put in a new fuse under the hood for the fuel pump and still did not fire nor did I hear the fuel pump turn on
4) Metered the number 30 pin and turned the key in the "On" position and got 11.84 on the meter.
4) so Now I guess its off to tracking the wire sto the fuel pump. I guess what I need to check for is 12v or better coming to the fuel pump connector?.
Ok here's the connector I'm looking for on top of the fuel tank. I'm just not sure which to connect the meter up to for measuring voltage

I dont know what I was thinking I've got 4 bolts holding down the truck bed I'll do Like I did last time and use a winch t lift it off the truck and then put it on some horses and go to town on the fuel pump. Here's a pic of how I had it before:

 

Last edited by satexasf150; 10-17-2006 at 12:11 AM.


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