Power windows raised manually?
Power windows raised manually?
My drivers side power window (2001 SCREW) won't come up. It did this once before, but before I could do anything, it corrected itself. Is there a way to raise it manually? It is in the down position, naturally. ANd I am going out of town in the morning.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Check the switch assembly
I had the same problem this morning. Went to the bank, driver's side power window went down, but wouldn't come up. Heard a clicking sound under the dash, and found it to be the #4 relay. Passenger side would work fine. Switched the ACC relay #5 and the #4 and passenger side window still worked which eliminated the relay since the ACC supplies power to the #4 Auto down relay. SO since I had power after I switched them, then I knew they were both good.
Removed the switch assembly from the door and headed to my workbench. Very carefully removed the switch "button" assembly cover from the unit. Saw where the copper "arm" that made contact with the circuit looked black like it was burned. I cleaned it with alcohol and scraped it lightly with the tip of a razor blade to make it shiney. Tested for continuity, which you should have when the switch is closed or not actuated. Pressed down on the contact arm and lost continuity which is correct.
Took the switch assembly to truck (without the switch "buttons" on it) and hooked it back up, turned on the key and pressed on the contact arm and the window raised. Then I cleaned everything real good, put the switch button assembly back on the switch assembly and tested it and it worked. Looks like the "up" side of the switch wasn't making good contact in there.
Check this out first as local Ford dealer wants $90 for a switch assembly and labor to put it in. This took me about an hour and saved some cash.
Removed the switch assembly from the door and headed to my workbench. Very carefully removed the switch "button" assembly cover from the unit. Saw where the copper "arm" that made contact with the circuit looked black like it was burned. I cleaned it with alcohol and scraped it lightly with the tip of a razor blade to make it shiney. Tested for continuity, which you should have when the switch is closed or not actuated. Pressed down on the contact arm and lost continuity which is correct.
Took the switch assembly to truck (without the switch "buttons" on it) and hooked it back up, turned on the key and pressed on the contact arm and the window raised. Then I cleaned everything real good, put the switch button assembly back on the switch assembly and tested it and it worked. Looks like the "up" side of the switch wasn't making good contact in there.
Check this out first as local Ford dealer wants $90 for a switch assembly and labor to put it in. This took me about an hour and saved some cash.
Man, that is scary. you just described exactly what I did this afternoon, but after I reinstalled it still wouldn't work. I took the door panel off to investigate and could hear clicking in the motor and it was very hot. I called the local Ford dealer and one of the techs said it sounded like the gear was just stuck (either from trash, or who knows). He said engage the switch and tap the motor with a hammer or wrench, which I did and it functioned with no problem. He said when it happens again I can hold the switch down and SLAM the door and it will probably work.


