I have a 2001 F-150 extended cab. The other day I got in the truck and the windows would not go down and I could not shift out of park. I looked through all of my fuses and found the #15 (5 amp)fuse blown (All of the other fuses in the CJB looked fine). I replaced the # 15 fuse and everything was fine for about 2 minutes and then it blew again. I put in a 10 amp fuse and everything was fine for about 3 days and then it blew again. Now any fuse I put in blows immediately. I assume I am having a problem with the brake-shift-interlock, but I am not sure. Any idea on where I should start to look for a short? Where is the brake shift interlock located and what do the wires look like? Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.

 

First of all, do NOT under ANY circumstances replace a 5A fuse with a 10A. That's just asking for a melt-down. The fuse is there to protect the wire. If the wire is rated for 5A and you allow 8A to try and pass through it, it's going to get HOT, possibly hot enough to melt the insulation and start a fire.

Second, the #15 fuse feeds the brake pedal position switch via the WH/YE wire which, in turn, feeds one half of the shift lock actuator via the RD/LG wire. Additionally, that fuse feeds the GEM via two inputs, so that *could* explain why it's tied to the windows.

Personally, I'd look at swapping out the brake pedal position switch first. In one position it sends power to the brake-shift interlock, but in the other position, it grounds the interlock, so it's possible that it's not breaking both connections internally and incorrectly grounding the input, causing the fuse to blow. The brake pedal switch is like a $10 part, and takes about 3 minutes to change. I like to keep it simple and do the easy stuff first.

-Joe

 

Thanks for the fast response. Where would I find the brake pedal position switch? Sorry for my ignorance, but I am new to all of this.

Thanks,

Brent

 

Don't apologize for asking questions. This is how we learn about our vehicles on here!

It'll be right on the brake pedal push-rod where the pedal meets it. There's an electrical connector with 5 wires on it, and a hitch pin that slips through the assembly. It's easiest to pull the pin, then remove the switch, and then try to unplug it. It's a piece of cake job.

I can't promise it'll fix the problem, but sometimes you get lucky.

-Joe

 

I will give that a try when I get off work. I'll let you know what I come up with. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Brake pedal position switch has been replaced and I still have the same symptoms. Also, I looked at all the other wires I could get to under tha dash and I didn't see any other wires that were bare or burned. What should be the next logical thing to look at/for?

BTW...you were right, the position switch was easy to get to.

Thanks,

Brent

 

From the service manual: (sorry, the pics don't copy over)

It's pretty straightforward once you find it. IIRC, it's up near the top of the column around the transmission gearshift lever.

-Joe