Starting issues with 2000 f150- HELP !!!!
Starting issues with 2000 f150- HELP !!!!
Went to store today and when I came out the truck wouldn't turn over. Called AAA and they got the truck started with a booster box. OK, figured it was probably the Battery( 3 yrs old). Changed battery and got the same no crank condition. Able to get engine started again with a booster box. No problems at all before this, all lights and chimes work when turning the key. I do beleive that I also hear an audible " click" when attempting to start the truck. Where would you go next???? I am leaning towards a starter??? I live in South Florida and it stays pretty HOT down here most of the time. Truck has approx 140K with original starter and solenoid. Many thanks in advance...
Alt is charging fine. I checked that before I replaced the battery. I'm pretty sure that the solenoid clicks when I turn the key on as well, that is why I am thinking maybe the starter or possibly one of the starter wires. Like I said before the battery is brand new and hot, so I have plenty of juice.
I just tried it again this morning.
With the headlights on, they don't dim at all when I turn the key switch. There was no audible click from the solenoid. All of the guages and lights seem to function normally. Anybody have any ideas?????
With the headlights on, they don't dim at all when I turn the key switch. There was no audible click from the solenoid. All of the guages and lights seem to function normally. Anybody have any ideas?????
If you have a new battery, and the lt tets good..
Did you :
1. Check the battery cables for corrosion, and tightness ?
1.1. This is not only at the battery itself, but also the connections at:
1.1.1. Starter Motor Relay.
1.1.2. Starter motor itself.
2. If the cables are good, the next step is to check the starter motor relay itself.

Check the starter motor relay for power from DTR ( the Tan w/ a Red Stripe wire ) , using a good known ground ( batt neg terminal ) and then with the ground on the starter motor relay itself.
check for the voltage passing through the starter motor relay when you crank the key.
I am taking a SWAG that the cables either on the starter motor or starter motor relay are either loose or have corrosion, and the battery booster is adding enough current to the circuit to start the truck, where the battery alone is having a problem with it.
This is a SWAG, but I don't see how a bad DTR or Starter motor relay would be cured by a battery booster.
Could be the starter motor itself, but doing the checks and tests above first are the route to go, prior to tossing a new starter in it.
Did you :
1. Check the battery cables for corrosion, and tightness ?
1.1. This is not only at the battery itself, but also the connections at:
1.1.1. Starter Motor Relay.
1.1.2. Starter motor itself.
2. If the cables are good, the next step is to check the starter motor relay itself.

Check the starter motor relay for power from DTR ( the Tan w/ a Red Stripe wire ) , using a good known ground ( batt neg terminal ) and then with the ground on the starter motor relay itself.
check for the voltage passing through the starter motor relay when you crank the key.
I am taking a SWAG that the cables either on the starter motor or starter motor relay are either loose or have corrosion, and the battery booster is adding enough current to the circuit to start the truck, where the battery alone is having a problem with it.
This is a SWAG, but I don't see how a bad DTR or Starter motor relay would be cured by a battery booster.
Could be the starter motor itself, but doing the checks and tests above first are the route to go, prior to tossing a new starter in it.
clicking was actually a relay in the under-dash fusebox. Wire cables and connections all look good topside, but my mechanic will check the starter end tomorrow Any other suggestions???
i think the most common problem is the starter relay. jump across the 2 big terminals and see if it cranks.
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check the small wire connected to dtarter motor,couple times a yr aI get same problem. Pull of female lead,clean spade and try to tighten female crimp on blade,a little di-electric grease and good for another 6-8 before the crap from road corrodes it and it needs to be cleaned. Crappy design by Ford to have that exposed
wires checked out ok, problem turned out to be the starter solenoid. what a relief!!!!! At least I didn't have to buy a starter today!!! Thanks guys for your help.....


