I just stumbled onto this thread via the search function.

I have a '98 Supercab XLT, and the passenger window has ceased to function. It just quit one day when I tried to lower it. A few days later, it started working again. A few weeks after that, it again stopped working "permanently".

Fortunately it failed in the up position. I've noticed the dome light dim slightly when I push the control button, so I'm assuming the motor is drawing current and is simply stuck or stalled.

I'm going to try thumping the motor per the above posts and hope I get lucky.

But I'm puzzled by one thing. Why drill such large holes to access the motor screws? It looks like 3/8" or 1/2" would be more than adequate. Am I missing something?

 

drill whatever size is necessary for you to get a socket in there or whatever you are using

 

Deed, think I will

 

drilled the holes and ordered a replacement cardone motor. removed the old motor, it had very coarse threads on the attaching bolts, the cardone motor had machined metal holes appearing to require a machine thread instead of the ford used coarse threads, anyone else have this problem and the thread size appears close to 1/4/20.

 

i have the regulator out and removed the motor what is the trick of getting the motor back on the spring loaded regulator?

 

I have a question for anyone who has tried removing the window motor by drilling out of the three dimples. I've read how to remove the "Door window glass regulator" in the Haynes Repair Manual and they caution about the regulator arms are under extreme pressure and to insert a bolt and nut through holes in the backing plate and sector gear to lock team together.

My question is do you have to worry about this if you drill out the dimples and just remove the motor?

I have a 2002 extended cab 5.4L.
Any help would be great.
Thanks

 

I did not do that on dad's 2001, it could be we just got lucky, or it could be it is not needed. Don't know if any of the others here have had problems.

Dad's was removed 3 times. 1 by me, another 30 days later he took it out and hit it again, and then when he got the new motor.

 

I just replaced the driver's side window motor on my 1999 SuperCab XLT using the steps listed here and in several other threads. The two dimples were clearly marked, drilled them out using a 1/2" bit and could easily access the 8mm bolts. The third hole was a guess, based on pictures or drawings submitted in other posts, so I had to enlarge the hole with a Dremel once I could see the bolt head. I had previously tried the "hitting the motor" approach, using a hammer while the motor was still installed in the door. This worked long enough to get the window closed, until I had time to get the motor out. Finally pulled the assembly out, removed the motor from the gear housing and looked inside. The large white plastic gear inside was missing about 1" of teeth, so off to NAPA for a new motor. $87 and a hour later my window was working fine. The NAPA motor uses self-threading plastic inserts for the bolt holes, which seemed a little cheap to me. But they tightened up just fine.

 

Holes drilled :


2 pictures of power window motor :

 

Just replaced mine on my '05 SCREW. Intimidated at first but after loosening the window clamps and the 5 support blots things just kind of flowed. This really is an easy installation. Thanks for the awesome directions and the time it took to post.

 

A friend of mine just purchased two of these kits for his Ford Bronco.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...405-_-10720525

I believe Autozone and O'Reiley's also carries this kit.

 

Well, I took care of it today - thanks for the pics & posts - makes it alot easier. My Chilton's manual is ok- but not as good as some of the info here. SScully's pics defined behind the door panel to a T.

Got my replacement motor from Ford - after I get my $30.00 core charge back, it will be $188.00

My experience with this repair:

Door trim, switch trim plate, door handle trim, and door panel are all easy off, and easy back on.

Use SScullys pics as a guide - drill the 3/4" holes dimples out - leave the rivets unless you think you relly need to remove the motor mount too.

Old motor comes out easy enough - new motor goes in with some moderate effort. Make sure you tape your glass to the door frame if it's up.

A magnet on a telescoping handle come in handy to collect metal hole cut out if it falls out of the hole saw - you don't want door rattles . . .

If you don't want to disconnect your battery, you can pull your interior dome fuse; #14 on the cab fuse box - make sure you put it back in, because it also controls the relay for the windows.

Start to finish it took me two hours - and I get real detailed and take my time.

Thanks folks - you made my job easier

John

 

Where did you buy your window motor from? I'm not sure mine need replacing. They don't work, but if I bang on the part with the handle inside it goes down and up for both sides. Does that mean I have a bad connection?

 

If both windows do not work, I would say it is not the motor, but some additional info & testing is needed.

Can you post some info on your truck ( MY, cab and trim level ) or complete your profile ?

 

I have a 2000 F150 Supercab. The windows haven't worked for over 5 years. I'm not a mechanic by any means and that is a good reason why I'm in law enforcement. Read this posting and one where SSCULLY posted pictures of drilling into the door at the two dimples and then estimating on the third. Read all the threads and was a litte nervous but figugred I couldn't hurt it. Called junk yard and purchased both motors (tested & worked) for $33.00 each. Came home drilled the driver's door took out the motor and plugged it back in and it was working. I replaced it and greased the track and teeth on the regulator and it continues to work fine. Did the same with the passenger side worked a few times with the old motor and quit again so I replaced it with the one from the junk yard and now it works like a champ. Save over $450 doing it myself as the local Ford dealer was ready to rob me. Thanks SSCULLY