well, i turn the key and all i hear is a click yes the battery terminals were corroded, i cleaned the terminals checked the ground and tried to bypass the solenoid, and click, i have not checked the starter, i jumped someone a wk ago +=+/-=-, yes i know now that is not the correct way to do it but since i did would this be a result of the "click and nothing" response even though its been a week or is it just a coincidence! and i checked half of the fuses inside the truck and half of the fuse box does not respond to the fuse checker they are not blown though, the maxi fuses do not look burned or better yet how can you tell if the maxi fuses are no good, and all the other fuses in the hood are good

 

I am drawing a blank for 100% certain, but does the 2000 still have the fuses on the firewall next to the stat selenoid ?

I seem to recall another member post a picture, he blew his, doing E-Fans or something ??? don't know if those are what you are refering to. If you blew one of these I suspect the dead battery to ahppen prior to a week later, unless you have not been driving it.

How to check a Maxi Fuse, pull the fuse, and use a meter in the ohm or continuity setting, and measure across the terminals on it.
0 ( or really close to zero ) ohms = good fuse.

A good way to check, is to yank the fuse you want to test ( regular ATM fuse ) from the fuse box, for something that is hot at all times, and measure the voltage from one side to ground. It should have +12v, the other pin should be dead ( that is the fused side going into the truck ).
You can do this with the power points / cigar locations as a starter.

 

all the lights work the fuse panel is inside the truck by the clutch peddle and the other fuse box is in the hood on the left side by the window corner sitting in the drivers side looking ahead

 

Ok, I seem to be missing something.

You said Can you explain what this means in a bit more detail ?

I know, there is the battery junction box, and the central junction box. I was not refering to those fuses. Unless you have not checked the 50A fuse in the battery junction box that feeds the central junction box. Sounds as if this is good if the lights still work. Is it true that the central junction box still has power to it ?

The Fuses I was refering to ( if still on the firewall ), I mis stated what it is next to, the correct name per the EVTM is the Starter Motor Relay
I am drawing a complete blank if these were still on the firewall in 2000 or if they were moved to the harness location by the battery like the later MY in that series F-150.

There are 2 gray fuse links, I was asking if both of these were good.

The fuse links, one side of the starter motor, the generator, and the battery junction box are all on a commond bolt at the starter motor relay.
The fuse links are between the above items, in parallel, and the battery.

If you could answer this set of question, we can get on to what might be causing your problem.

 

10 minutes with a multimeter and you'll know where the problem is. Check for power at the trigger wire on the solenoid. Check for power through both of the large terminals on the solenoid. Check for power at the starter end of the cable, and at the post on the starter. Where the power stops flowing is where the problem lies.

If I was a bettin' man, I'd say take a look at the battery cable on the starter end. It's probably corroded away to nothing, if it's not broken off.

-Joe

 

How old is your battery? X

 

I would bet on the battery. Have you tried jumping it? Just cause your lights, horn, radio and whatnot work does not discount the battery. The battery may have enough power to work the accessories (dont take much juice to play the radio) but not enough power to spin the starter.