In desperate help: Have a Ford Remote start w/ Pats interface kit.
1st - can't find the dome light wire, calls for Black/Blue wire, locate behind parking brake bracket ,when hooked to this wire system will blow fuse. performed test and found no difference between door open/shut.
2nd - can't find Tach wire on #1 coil, calls for tan wire.....found a tan wire on passenger side 1st cylinder but unsure if this is the #1 coil. will it matter which cylinder.

Stuck for now....anybody.

 

You must have connected to the wrong wire, the the courtecy lighting all use the black wire with a blue tracer. on most trucks this comes from pin 20 in the conecter from the GEM module. There should be a wire going to the courtusy light in the doors, also same color, This may be easier to find on the passenger side behind the kick pad pannel. As far as the tan wire on the passenger side I think that you are loking at the fuel injector and not the coil.the #1 fuel injector has a tan wire and a red wire to it. the #1 coil should have a light green wire with a white tracer on it.

 

Don't know why you are blowing a fuse, the Black with a light blue stripe wire is circuit 53, which is the front door courtesy lamps, and runs to the overhead console. This circuit is feed off the interior lamp relay in the central junction box.
The connector is C206 which shows as being on the passenger side, not the driver's side. It is also in connector C203, also on the passenger's side kick panel. C206 is a 16 pin gray connector. There is no indication of this being in a connector on the driver's side kick panel, only a splice in the line, next connector is the courtesy lamp in the door. ?? Got me why your directions say it is on the driver's side.


For the 5.4L engine, at the PCM ( firewall passenger's side 104 pin connector ) the pin # 26 is the COP #1. This shows as a light green with a white stripe. Don't know what the Tan wire is, seemed to be the same on the 4.6L, but I only took a quick look. What engine is in the truck ?
The Tan primary color wires I count at the PCM are items like the J1850 Bus+, Tran Ctrl switch, MAFS Sig Return, etc.
There is a Tan only wire, which is the Fuel Injector #1 Control. Is this what you needed, not the COP ? It is Circuit 555, pin 75 ( 3rd row of pins, right hand side of the connector, looking into the connector, or is would be on the left, looking at it still connected to the PCM

That is about What I can find in the 2001 EVTM, which so far to date, has been the same for 99 to 03. There could be a difference with the 2002, that I have not run into yet.

 

The black/blue wire I actually hooked into was from original keyless system located right behind the parking brake bracket just like the wire chart said it was. Anyway my big worry is why I was blowing the 25amp fuse in the new remote harness(Dome light). Maybe now that I'll be going to the kick panel on passenger side I'll be strait. by the way whats the best route to snake a wire from that pass. panel to the driver's side where I need to be?
thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Looking at the Black with a Light Blue stripe in the remote control alarm and lock section ( 110 ) this is a ground to the CSM ( yours should be a CSM, not a RAP version ).
If you have Circuit 875, black with a light blue stripe, that is a ground wire, which would make sense why you are blowing the harness fuse ( power to ground ). This is in Connector C247, which is behind the driver's side kick panel ( by the parking brake ). C247 is a 16 pin gray connector, if you want to verify if it is the same one you are using.
Using a meter, this would show no voltage change for door open / close, but if you used the resistance function on the meter, it would show 0 ohms to ground. That might really explain it pretty quick.

If you have a console or bench, there is a plastic piece in the center that extends from the dash to the floor. A few plastic clips, and this comes out. You then can see where the wires are routed from the pedal location, up over the trans hump, to the pass side. I ran some switched LEDs on the floor level and used this route, to zip tie the wires all the way to the passenger side kick panel. Behind the glove box, I forget, thought the wires were right there up against the firewall.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out. Remember to check the circuit in the previous post with a meter, prior to using it.

 

Guys: having a PATS problem- I have the system installed thanks to you guys. The problem is it will crank but won't start with the remote. Both master keys will start the truck fine. 1st I programmed the tach mode. worked fine, 2nd was programming PATS interface. using both keys I would insert the key into the "on" position then wait until the "theft" light went out, then the same with the 2nd key. then try to start with the remote. starter will crank & truck won't start. I Checked the brake switch wiring-FINE, checked antenna ring- LOOKS FINE, checked the hood switch-FINE. If I hold the spare key near the PATS antenna @ the ignition cylnder the truck will start. So I know the system is working just having a PATS isssue I can't figure out. Also the "quick stop" feature works fine.
What are my options?
Ford Silver system, w/PATS interface bypass

 

From the pdf of the Rev A trouble shoort guide for the Ford PowerCode remote starter:

Q – Ignition turns on then off but no crank?
· Check connections on violet and violet /red wires.
· Check to see if the Securilok Interface Kit is programmed correctly.
· Check A-4 and B-2 red wires, both should have battery 12volts (+).
Q – PATS light comes on and vehicle won’t remote start?
· Make sure the Securilok Interface Kit is programmed correctly.
· Check antenna ring mounting around ignition cylinder.
· Make sure that you have the correct PATS bypass kit for your vehicle.
· Make sure that PATS bypass kit is plugged into the correct location.

From what I found here with a search, specific to the PATS byapss :
From your post, it seems you said you had a problem programming the PAT bypass ?? Might want to take a look at it again.
There is another thing about start and stall, but this does not seem to apply to you.

This is the thread :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=171800

 

Thanks for the quick reply....I had read that post earlier and it gave me some things to double check.Question? At what times should I see the LED work, the only time I've seen it on was during "service mode" it would double flash. Shall it be on during remote start mode?

 

I can't recall if it is on during remote start.
Have been without my truck since XMAS eve ( insurace company delay and now at the body shop getting fixed ) so I can't think of how it works. Won't have it back for at least another week, but my '06 SCrew should be in and ready this week, can tell you later in the week.

Anyone else know if the LED is on when the remote starter is activated ?

 

hey SSCULLY: Update....just found out I have the wrong PATS bypass kit. I have a Ford Part #1L2Z-19G365-AB, I need a #1L3Z-19G365-AB.

Off to the dealership to get the correct part, then get this thing done with.

Thanks for all your help

 

Thanks guys for all your help....system works great!