Smaller T-Taps would have worked fine on the 16 AWG wire, but if you are not in the mood for it, go with the parking lamp as the input to the switch for the relay.

Headlamp switch you are looking for a Brown wire. This is Circuit 14 from the headlamp switch, which is supplied power from the Central junction box, fuse F6, 15 AMPs.

Connector C214 is a inline connector with 2 rows of 8 pins, totalling 16 pins in it. The Circuit 14 is a brown 20 AWG wire, on pin 2. If you look into the male end of the connector, with the tab on the left, pin 2 is the left hand side row, second from the bottom.
The connector C214 can be found behind the kick panel on the drivers side. Take of the plastic, and you should see it just below the parking brake pad, when the parking brake is disengaged. Get some T-Taps for 20 AWG ( pink ones cover this if I am recalling correctly ) from NAPA.

I doubt that installing the power for the relay on the 12 AWG did your truck in, but I can't be sure as I have not see a PCM need to be replaced. Reflashed, yes, but replaced..got me.

Go with the parking lamps as the power for the switch, just remember that any time the parking lamps are on, the driving lamps could also be on. Nice feature of this, you don't accidently drive around with your driving lamps on, sans parking lamps

The other option is to get an add a fuse from NAPA, and install it into something that is hot in the run position from the fuse panel inside the truck. Don't know the clearance of the fuse box cover on a newer one yet, my '06 won't be in until the wekk of 20-JAN-05.

 

The PCM wasn't replaced, a module or relay leading to it was before they could get the truck to run again. They origanlly thought the PCM got wiped clean, as they have seen that before, but it wasn't, and this particular issue was rare. The PCM itself was ok.

I don't mind using this 16AWG wire, even prefer it if it’s near the 12awg I did use, so I don’t have to rerun much wire. Not sure how one would be better then the other as they both are key switched under the steering column. Could you explain that, why you would have used it instead?

This entire situation could just be me being paranoid about a fluke with the truck that wasn't directly related to my install, but seems to strong of a coincidence. I have yet to try the driving lights again as I haven’t reqired anything, but the green indicator LED on button does lights up.

If I use the parking lights, does the truck only have to be on? I like to turn the driving lights on with or without any headlights, but only when the truck is on, or the accessory power is on, which is how it worked with the 12awg wire. This way, no dead battery if you leave it on, and take the key out.

I tried to see which lights were used for the parking lamps the other day, but nothing really seemed to be on unless the headlights are on. It’s a fX4 with fogs.

SSCULLY, you have been a great help. I'm fairly new to ford, and this is our first truck being a sports car guy. Sorry for all crazy questions. I just want a good tap for key switched power as my wife will be using it most of the time, and I won't have to worry about it any more

 

I used the circuit in my '01 that is similar to Circuit 297, as it is only hot in the Run and Accessory positions, not in the start position. This makes it so what ever is tapped onto it, is off when starting the truck. This prevents any accessory from being on, when turning the starter, which E-Fans are not needed when cranking the engine ( or in your case, driving lamps ). I don't have my '06 yet, so I can't say for 100% what is going to happen with this circuit as a power source, but I do know that when you turn the key to the start position, there is no power on this circuit, so it would be as factory in starting mode.

Using the parking lamp wire to power the switch, would indicate that the parking lamps need to have power to them, to get power to the switch for the relay. At that time, the driving lamps could be used. No key needed, no requirement for the headlamps to be on.
This is how I wired the power for the relay to my 510s and 520s on my '01 SCrew. The only way to drain the battery this way, is to have the switch on, and leave at least the parking lamps on, and walk away.

Factory fog lamps ( '03 and earlier ) had a ramp in the lamp switch, that required the headlamps to be on, to pull the switch out for the fogs. In that earlier year, you could dremmel out the ramp inside the switch, and make it so the fogs worked in the parking lamp position as well as the headlamp position. I don't know if this is still the case with the '04+ year switches.

If you are looking for a key in the run position ( and not in the start position ) that is circuit 297, 16 AWG Black WITH a Light Green stripe. You have to look through the bundles from the ign switch up in the column to find it, I would start in the same bundle as the one you got the 12 AWG wire from. Get a pink T-Tap for it from NAPA, the yellow one you used for the 12 AWG won't work on it, and the blue one is still too large for 16 AWG.

 

Red T-Taps (and any other red insulated crimp connecter) are 18-20 AWG.
Blue are 14-16 AWG.
Yellow denotes 12-10 AWG.

 

Thanks for correcting me. I am getting a bit old, and foget. I do the Yellow= 12 AWG, Blue =14 and pink=16. Thanks again.