So far I've only run into two problems, but they're things that I want to get done before I worry about anything else. I've searched and searched but can't find any info on my bypass. It's a PKF1... Everybody seems to have a model that either uses a key/chip or has some sort of ring to wrap around the ignition cylinder. Mine has neither. I have a wire to go to the remote start box, a wire to ground, a power wire, and then two wires that go to "ECM RX" and "ECM TX." Whaaaat in the world is that? It shows a diagram of the TX and RX but it's on a 4-pin connector. No such thing on the ECM that I've seen. I'll put a link to a picture of the instructions for my bypass. CAn anybody make any sense of this??? http://gra.midco.net/foster2/1.jpg
The other problem... the tach signal. I pulled the 104 pin connector off, drilled pin 48, glued the wire in making sure that it reached to the very end... bla bla bla... The unit would not learn the tach signal. I checked with the meter and the wire for the tack signal (from pin 48) has no voltage when not running, and a full 14 volts when running at any rpm. I assume this high voltage is what's confusing the unit. It'll try to start the truck, and will start as long as the key is in, but then it'll shut it down after 5 or 6 seconds... I'm assuming this is due to the lack of a good or learned tach signal. I've found a white/pink wire that other people have talked about, but it goes out to the steering wheel... My truck has a factory tach, but i really don't want to pull out the whole dash... unless it's easier than it looks?

So.. to recap since I rambled a bit, I need help getting this bypass figured out http://gra.midco.net/foster2/1.jpg and I need a tach signal on a factory tach truck. Am I not looking in the right place for the instrument cluster harness? and when i do find a wire, how can i make sure it's a tach signal? Thanks in advance

 

What year truck please?
RX = Recieve.
TX = Transmitt.

 

2001 F150 XLT

transmit and recieve... i like the sound of that... to what though?

 

From the photo use type A and follow the programing as stated.
Without seeing the rest of the instruction, I can't offer any more insight.
Where do they say to go for ignition hookup and the RX/TX leads?
Just not enough info here without prior experience.

 

YES! I'm glad you said that!!!!! That's EXACTLY why it's not hooked up yet! THAT IS THE WHOLE INSTRUCTION SHEET!!!!! The fold to the left is only a logo and a disclaimer for incorrect installation. The back is completely blank. What you see there is ALL there is too it. Whaaaaat the hell right??? I figured there'd be a 4-pin connector that looked like the one they showed and i could just tap into that. but NOPE, only a 104-pin connecotr... unless there's another computer somewhere? Maybe.... I'm supposed to extend those to wires to make a giant loop, one to the other, and then wrap that around the ignition cylinder?? It seems that everybody else's kit has something to wrap. I don't know. but I AM glad to know that I'm not the only one who things this is extremely vague.

Any ideas for an alternate tach hookup?

 

************BINGO!!!!*************

I got it working! The truck will crank and run without a key!! (but then it shuts down after 6 seconds because there's still no tach signal). The connector it shows (4-pin) is actually the connector for the PATS/transducer ring itself!! It's just under the steering column in plain sight. It seems to be a very interesting system. You splice it in with the existing 4 wires, turn the key on once, and you're ready to go. The remote start powers it and the bypass sends the signal to the ECM through the same wires as the ignition would. Nifty.

BUT, I still haven't found a tach signal. It says it needs a pulse voltage... not just a 12v reference. I really don't want to buy that tach adapter everybody is talking about.

 

An idea to try.
Take a leads and wrap it around one of the COP leads.
If the remote is sensitive enough it might work.
I have researched the possibility of testing ignition timing on these engines and find I can indeed use an inductive lite pick up on #1 COP and reference timing marks on the front crank pulley damper just like the older engines.
You might call the company and ask for what you need to know.
Good luck and remind me not to buy that make of unit.

 

DANG I wish I would have checked the board one more time!
I ended up splicing into the green wire on the #1 coil. First I stuck a needle in it and hooked a jumper wire to the needle for a quick test. I really hated cutting into that coil wire. (I had to replace a coil earlier this year and I know how irritating and pricey they are).
Anyhoo, everything is working fine. Funny you mentioned brand though... It has no "brand" really. The brain box itself has absolutely nothing on it. Neither does the box. Only "RS-300". It seems to be a good system though. It does everything I want it to do. Only time will tell if it's a unit that'll last.
I really appreciate your help and patience. take care