I have a 98 F150. Shortly after i bought it used the pass window stopped working. The pass window would not work from the drivers door or the pass door. The driver window worked fine. I took the switchs out of both doors, cleaned, inspected and reassembled. After this the pass window worked perfectly for about a week and since it has stopped working again. This is getting frustrating. Can some help me with some ideas before i start throwing money away on parts that i cannot return?
Thanks,
Cadflyer
gzm7072@hotmail.com

 

More than likely, the window motor is bad. Try this: Key on, hold the window switch (either side) up or down, whatever direction it needs to go, and slam the door fairly stoutly while holding the window switch. Don't kill it, we're not trying to break the glass, we're just trying to give the motor a boost. If the window runs, you need a motor.

 

Thanks, I will try that today and see what happens. If that does not have any effect on it what would be your next suggestion? Thanks for your help.
Cadflyer

 

If that doesn't work, check for broken wires at the bulkhead where the wiring passes into the door. Wiggle the rubber boot in between the door and the body while working the window switch.

 

I tried shutting the door while the button was engaged and it do not do anything. When it is working the motor sounds and works great. I will check the wires as you described and see what that does. I am wondering if it might be a bad switch or something???? I don't know, i am not very knowledgable when it comes to troublshooting electrical stuff. Thanks again,
cadflyer

 

Hm...do the interior lights dim when you try rolling the window up or down? A more direct way would be to pull the door panel and check for power at the window motor itself. A bad switch is a possibilty, but window motors fail more than switches IME.

 

YES, when i engage the switch i notice the interior lights do dime slightly. How would i go about getting a breakdown showing how to disassemble the door panel? I would hate to break the clips and such when i remove it.
Thanks

 

If the lights are dimming, then voltage is dropping across the motor; I'm still leaning towards a bad window motor. To pull the door panel, first pop the covers off on either sides of the pull strap with a small screwdriver and remove the two 8mm bolts underneath them. Use the screwdriver again to pop the little bezel loose around the inside door handle, and remove the 8mm bolt that holds the plastic door handle to the inside door latch. I'm not certain on a '98, but the little piece of trim opposite of the rear view mirror on the inside by the A-pillar may be removable seperately with the door panel, and there may be a Phillips headed screw underneath it. Pull the plastic trim off nearest to the B-pillar, it's held in with snap clips. Then, lift the door panel up to release the hooks holding it to the door. The connector to the window motor will be grey, two pins, one wire is red/yellow and the other is yellow/red, IIRC.

 

I am going to do what your suggesting tomorrow when i get home from work. I am hoping it not the motor, i hear those are kinda expensive. Anyhow, i will check that tomorrow and i will let you know what i find in there. Thanks very much for all your help.
Cadflyer

 

Not meaning to hijack here but could you describe the motor replacement process? I'm in the same boat (same model and symptoms) as Cadflyer and disassembled the door last night to discover what I'm guessing are rivets that hold the motor assembly on the door. I don't suppose there is some easy way to manually get the window up and locked in place while waiting for the motor to come in.

Again, sorry for being impatient.

Lee

 

Ok, I got the panel off. I took my test light and probed the plug at the window motor while i engaged the switch. Both sides (wires) were hot. So, i guess that pretty much narrows it down to the motor huh? Do you know where i can buy a new motor other than the dealer. I hate paying dealer prices for this stuff. It appears to be quite a task to remove the motor, any tips on that?
Thanks,
Cadflyer

 

I'm seeing $60 for reman. on up to $125+ for new at Advance and Autozone in my area. Looks like it depends also on if you just get the motor or the whole assembly. That's about the stores I'm limited to but you may have more options where you are.

Lee

 

That is about what i was figuring on a price. I will have to go with a NEW motor because judging from the looks of what all is involved in changing it i will not want to do it again. Like you i need to figure out what the process is for changing it out. Have you started on yours yet?

 

May have to break down and buy a book. :-(

I picked one up from AutoZone. It's a Siemens. I got the part number that both them and AdvanceAuto call for the right side (passenger) and walked out to my truck. I kept looking at it and what I could see inside the door and went back in and swapped for what they say is left side. Hopefully I didn't outsmart myself. Looking at AdvanceAuto website at pictures of different ones confirms to me that they have those part numbers mislabeled. Guess I'll see.

Looks like the regulator has to come out which means for me those 6 rivets need to be drilled. Can't see any other way at the moment. I'm going to go out and work on it a bit and will post back if I make progress.

Lee

 

To access the motor, you'll have to cut or drill three 3/4" holes in the door skin. Look at the door with the panel off...see three little dimples in the door, approx. 3-4 inches below the top of the door adjacent to the speaker? (IIRC) You'll need a 3/4" hole saw or a Rotobroach; use the dimples for your pilot hole to gain access to the bolts that hold the motor to the regulator. After that, it's simply removing those three bolts, rock the old motor out (it's under spring tension, but with the glass in place, it shouldn't really matter), rock the new one in, bolt it down and bump it up or down once or twice to be sure that the gear is fully engaged with the regulator. You might hear a loud POP when it does, but don't freak out or nothing, that's normal. Oh, and one thing I've found on the aftermarket motors, some of them have aluminum housings, whereas the Ford motors usually have plastic housings. You'll break the bolts off in your new motor trying to start bolts from the old motor into the new one, since they're kinda self tapping for the plastic housing. If your new motor has an aluminum housing and didn't come with new bolts, you may want to make a trip to your local hardware store and matching up some bolts to the new motor.