How I installed foglights on F150 XLT
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Joined: Apr 2005
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How I installed foglights on F150 XLT
How I installed foglights on F150 XLT
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DISCLAIMER: This is offered in good faith and it has worked for me. However, I am not responsible for anything whatsoever arising from or in connection to this text. I am not responsible for anything arising from you or anyone performing or trying to perform anything mentioned in this text. By following anything written herein, you assume complete responsibility and absolve me from same.
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Two aftermarket foglights. Three wires: red (+ battery), black (ground) and white (to lights).
1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. VERY IMPORTANT.
2. There is a grommet (hole) to the passenger side of steering wheel column. It was covered with a rubber stopper. I popped it out.
- Move the driver's seat back as much as you can
- Lay down on the floor looking up facing under steering wheel
- Use a flashlight
- It's a rubber stopper, you'll see and feel it
- Push it out
3. Move the three wires that are supposed to hook up to the ON/OFF Switch from the engine compartment through that hole to the cabin.
- From the inside, pull them out aways.
3. b. Plug all three wires into the switch. The black (ground) USUALLY goes on the side where the switch goes into the ON position.
4. Hook up the other end of the black (ground) cable to any metal part that is eventually hooked up to the frame. (I chose a random bolt on the inside of "F150 XLT TRITON" emblem (roughly) ).
- Hook up ground wire in a place with NO other wires.
5. Moved white wires down near driver's side headlight and looped them through a loop of the frame under bumper and hooked them up to the lights.
6. Went to the store to get extended cables and extended the black (ground) wires that went from the lights, and hooked them up to a bolt on the frame someplace there.
7. Ran the red (+ Battery) wire through two plastic clips (already built-in at firewall, near windshield) and hooked it up to the + Battery cable.
- To hook it up: loosen the bolt holding the + Battery cable in place, place the crescent-shaped metal tip of the red wire in there, over the bolt, and tighten it.
8. THE SWITCH:
- Ideally, the switch is to be mounted on the dashboard.
- I bought a 5ft $3.00 plastic wire housing, about 1/4inch in diameter, and placed wires there from the grommet in the firewall all the way to the switch.
- What I did (it's temporary) is put that housing with the three wires inside under the mat under my feet on the driver's side. I squeezed the housing in between the driver's and the center seat. My switch is by the driver's seat-belt clasp.
9. Reconnect the (-) Battery cable.
----------------------------------
CONSIDERATIONS:
Disconnect (-) battery cable when working with any electrical system.
Make sure there are no wires near the black (ground) wire where you are grounding it.
The cresent-shaped connectors on wires are meant to be hooked up to bolts when they are loosened and then tightened over those connectors.
Make sure the three wires going through the firewall into the cabin ARE NOT INTERFERING WITH YOUR PEDALS.
Lastly, turn off your lights when engine not running - they will drain the battery.
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KEYWORDS:
Fog lights, driving lights, fog light installation, driving lights installation, how to install, installing, aftermarket, setup.
----------------------------------
DISCLAIMER: This is offered in good faith and it has worked for me. However, I am not responsible for anything whatsoever arising from or in connection to this text. I am not responsible for anything arising from you or anyone performing or trying to perform anything mentioned in this text. By following anything written herein, you assume complete responsibility and absolve me from same.
----------------------------------
Two aftermarket foglights. Three wires: red (+ battery), black (ground) and white (to lights).
1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. VERY IMPORTANT.
2. There is a grommet (hole) to the passenger side of steering wheel column. It was covered with a rubber stopper. I popped it out.
- Move the driver's seat back as much as you can
- Lay down on the floor looking up facing under steering wheel
- Use a flashlight
- It's a rubber stopper, you'll see and feel it
- Push it out
3. Move the three wires that are supposed to hook up to the ON/OFF Switch from the engine compartment through that hole to the cabin.
- From the inside, pull them out aways.
3. b. Plug all three wires into the switch. The black (ground) USUALLY goes on the side where the switch goes into the ON position.
4. Hook up the other end of the black (ground) cable to any metal part that is eventually hooked up to the frame. (I chose a random bolt on the inside of "F150 XLT TRITON" emblem (roughly) ).
- Hook up ground wire in a place with NO other wires.
5. Moved white wires down near driver's side headlight and looped them through a loop of the frame under bumper and hooked them up to the lights.
6. Went to the store to get extended cables and extended the black (ground) wires that went from the lights, and hooked them up to a bolt on the frame someplace there.
7. Ran the red (+ Battery) wire through two plastic clips (already built-in at firewall, near windshield) and hooked it up to the + Battery cable.
- To hook it up: loosen the bolt holding the + Battery cable in place, place the crescent-shaped metal tip of the red wire in there, over the bolt, and tighten it.
8. THE SWITCH:
- Ideally, the switch is to be mounted on the dashboard.
- I bought a 5ft $3.00 plastic wire housing, about 1/4inch in diameter, and placed wires there from the grommet in the firewall all the way to the switch.
- What I did (it's temporary) is put that housing with the three wires inside under the mat under my feet on the driver's side. I squeezed the housing in between the driver's and the center seat. My switch is by the driver's seat-belt clasp.
9. Reconnect the (-) Battery cable.
----------------------------------
CONSIDERATIONS:
Disconnect (-) battery cable when working with any electrical system.
Make sure there are no wires near the black (ground) wire where you are grounding it.
The cresent-shaped connectors on wires are meant to be hooked up to bolts when they are loosened and then tightened over those connectors.
Make sure the three wires going through the firewall into the cabin ARE NOT INTERFERING WITH YOUR PEDALS.
Lastly, turn off your lights when engine not running - they will drain the battery.
----------------------------------
KEYWORDS:
Fog lights, driving lights, fog light installation, driving lights installation, how to install, installing, aftermarket, setup.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
Another way with a different operation.
Mount 30 amp relay up front.
Feed Running lite lead to one switched terminal, the fogs to the other.
Feed original feed for the running lites to the third center relay switch contact.
Run ONE lead from the relay winding thru the firewall to a switch mounted on the fuse panel cover.
Ground the other side. Connect the running lite supply also to the remaining winding terminal.
This hookup results in selecting either Running or Fogs with the headlite switch in the pulled out position.
This only works on low beams same as the running lites did stock.
This remains legal in those states where the aux lites must not be on with high beams as the factory originally set it up to do.
Mount 30 amp relay up front.
Feed Running lite lead to one switched terminal, the fogs to the other.
Feed original feed for the running lites to the third center relay switch contact.
Run ONE lead from the relay winding thru the firewall to a switch mounted on the fuse panel cover.
Ground the other side. Connect the running lite supply also to the remaining winding terminal.
This hookup results in selecting either Running or Fogs with the headlite switch in the pulled out position.
This only works on low beams same as the running lites did stock.
This remains legal in those states where the aux lites must not be on with high beams as the factory originally set it up to do.