Question for the FORD F150 technical troubleshooters - have a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4, and most of the time when the key is turned to the run position, the gauges go full scale and settle to the actual readings. This also 'zeros' the tripometer. And at other times, the gauges will not swing, the odometer is not energized and it appears the PATS system is activated - the engine will turn over with no start. I have checked all the grounds, replaced the ignition starter switch (not the cylinder lock), checked all the fuses, checked for shorts and replaced the PCM power relay and checked the system connections. The vehicle will start after several cycles of the ignition switch. The ignition cylinder switch has been removed and the contacts cleaned. In addition, the A/C clutch will not engage, unknown if this is related.
Would appreciate any help, concerned at some point it will not come back alive.

Thanks -

 

Look at the dash codes and come back with any DTCs.
It may get you a start in seeing what the problem is.

 

Thanks for the response. No DTC's are stored or pending. On the dealer test (cluster) no DTC's are stored. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't trip a code to track back too.

 

When the gauges swing fully to the right, it means your battery is going bad. Some kind of built in warning sign - I had this happen to me.

 

Thanks for the help - checked the battery voltage and it came in at 12.98V cold. Would still appreciate any other suggestions, been working on this problem for too long.

 

I just had this happen after charging my battery and i loosened the terminals and wiggled them to see if there was a bad connection to the battery. When i put the key and turned it the guages pegged out for like 3 or 4 seconds just as you described. Although i did not loose any radio programming like you would when the battery is disconnected and my programmed loor unlock code was still there too.

 

Please note: Your battery can show 12V and still be bad. Either not enough Amps or a floating short in the battery (plate has came loose). That would be intemitten symptoms.

Or it could be just a bad Ground cable. To check this use one side of a pair of jumper cables from the ground terminal to the block. If the block is not gettting a good ground then it will try to find ground anywhere often through your gauges. I had a TA do this, while cranking the Tack would peg out but it would not start. After 6 months of frustration and several parts later I found it was the Ground Cable. = $6 and 5 mins. and it fired right up. I was aggrevated with myself but happy it started all at the same time. It didnt look bad on visual inspection and the continuity on the multi meter still showed good. BUT was a weak section in the middle. After I replaced it and it started then I stripped the old one. There was a small section that was almost in two, only 5-6 strands was trying to carry the load. Of coarse that was enough to test good continuity.

 

Thanks for the help - there are two more block grounds that need to be checked and will try the direct jumper and see what effect it has. Spoke to some folks at FORD dealership and they have never heard of this situation -

 

Let me guess, followed by...
Bring it in and let us take a look at it.

 

Good news - The A/C cycle switch was bad, so this narrows down the possibilitites and is not related to the guage swings. When it is in no start mode, the PATS system appears to be on, no odometer - the 'THEFT' light does not light up. Still working on this and would appreciate any ideas.

 

Sounds like battery to me too. Or the cluster is defective.

 

My truck did the same thing, Had the battery load tested and it was only developing 200 cold cranking amps replaced with new motorcraft battery in december and haven't had a problem since then.

 

Take it to the auto store and have them test the Alt. & Batt. They do this for free with an actual tester (not just a volt meter) and puts everything under a load. Tell us what the Amps (most important) & then the volts register. With out more feed back your chasing your tail and we are stabbing in the dark.

 

Thanks again for the input - work permitting, I'll have the battery and alternator checked under load. Last Sunday, it went all day and seven starts without a gauge swing or run, no-start. When it does the key in the run position, no-start, the 'THEFT' light will not be energized, however the other dash indicator lights will be lit, the radio will function, wipers, etc.

 

That just sounds a lot like a floating short in the battery. What happens is a plate becomes unglued and is floating around in there. Sometimes it makes contact and some times it does not. One dead cell "when it's not making contact" can do a lot of things.